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Just took off doors

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Old 08-19-2014, 09:01 PM
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Yesterday I took my doors off my 98 and put them back on today, I simply put a 5/8" bolt in each hole for the doors. Now it sags a bit, I can close it directly I have to lift up, and when I open it the doors immediately drops. Now I was thinking of doing the quick pins but I can't drill out the holes, the drill gets in the way. But is the best way to cut the bottom of the top hinge off and weld in the thread less part of a 5/8" bolt for the easy drop in?

Also, does anyone know of any other plugs to use to make the wires one plug, other than the 93-97wj infinity sound system plugs?
Old 08-19-2014, 09:25 PM
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I did this to my jeep beginning of the summer. I drilled my holes out to 7/16 and used 5/16 ID 7/16 OD Brass impregnated flange bushings on the jeep side. Then I welded a short 2" with thread cut off 5/16 bolt to top door hinge, with bottom cut off. Then a 4" with thread cut off to bottom door hinge welded, with the buttom cut off. Had very little sag after that door closed better then before. I used computer motherboard connectors for my quick wiring disconnects so I didn't have to route wires through the a pillars everytime I took them off. I could have working doors back on in seconds each side, and off in seconds.

Only bad thing about the connectors I used is I couldnt retain the door rubber boot like the ZJ connectors. I later bought these Marine twist 24 pin connectors off ebay, they just showed up today. I won't be using them though because I actually rolled my jeep on saturday so it would pretty much be pointless...
Old 08-19-2014, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandonrcm
I did this to my jeep beginning of the summer. I drilled my holes out to 7/16 and used 5/16 ID 7/16 OD Brass impregnated flange bushings on the jeep side. Then I welded a short 2" with thread cut off 5/16 bolt to top door hinge, with bottom cut off. Then a 4" with thread cut off to bottom door hinge welded, with the buttom cut off. Had very little sag after that door closed better then before. I used computer motherboard connectors for my quick wiring disconnects so I didn't have to route wires through the a pillars everytime I took them off. I could have working doors back on in seconds each side, and off in seconds. Only bad thing about the connectors I used is I couldnt retain the door rubber boot like the ZJ connectors. I later bought these Marine twist 24 pin connectors off ebay, they just showed up today. I won't be using them though because I actually rolled my jeep on saturday so it would pretty much be pointless...
Sorry to hear about your jeep man. But how were you able to drill out the holes? Did you use a 90 degree drill or something?

Also, would trailer plugs work for the wiring?
Old 08-19-2014, 09:39 PM
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Actually I just thought of a head unit wiring harness, those have plenty of wires. Anyone use one of those?
Old 08-19-2014, 10:27 PM
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Mechanical doors is the answer.
Old 08-19-2014, 11:01 PM
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Yes, I used a 90 degree drill. Pain in the *** lol.

Trailer plugs don't have enough wires. Do the zj plugs, go manual doors, or buy what I bought but never got to use

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180475631434?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Smaller then what you would think from pictures. Yes its from china, I ordered them August 12th, and got them today August 19th. So their shipping is pretty damn good.

Driver door has 20 wires I believe, and passenger side 21.

I also made it so when I unplugged my wiring connectors it turned off the dome light buttons by making the power wire route to door connector wiring, but loop on door side, so when connected they had contact.
Old 08-20-2014, 02:02 AM
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^those look awesome^

And what is easier screwing with the wiring or replacing the window regulator?
Old 08-20-2014, 05:57 AM
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This is an excellent a post as I have seen to not consider removing doors if you plan on putting them back on for on road use, like using AC/Heater/Raining/Snowing well you get the picture. Heck I want to find new weather stripping for doors/windows/hatch on my XJ to seal it up better.

If it was an "Off-Road Only" and stored inside when being used (mine is anyway) I would remove all 4 doors and use a nylon on a small steel frame door. On a rig like that all unnecessary items would be removed anyway, more than just doors.
Old 08-20-2014, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
This is an excellent a post as I have seen to not consider removing doors if you plan on putting them back on for on road use, like using AC/Heater/Raining/Snowing well you get the picture. Heck I want to find new weather stripping for doors/windows/hatch on my XJ to seal it up better.

If it was an "Off-Road Only" and stored inside when being used (mine is anyway) I would remove all 4 doors and use a nylon on a small steel frame door. On a rig like that all unnecessary items would be removed anyway, more than just doors.
Well, I have am repairing some small holes in the floors so right now I have no back seat and no carpet, and probably going to leave it that way. Im going to bedline the interior. So, with nothing there for the water to ruin, Im not too worried, it seals good. I just have to lift up on the door to close it. Also, I will adjust it. Ill probably weld bolts on, then adjust the body side hinges to relieve most of the sag. As far as electronics go Im probably going to move my speakers elsewhere via fiberglass and convert the fronts to manual windows, and possible custom diamond plate door panel.
Old 08-20-2014, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
This is an excellent a post as I have seen to not consider removing doors if you plan on putting them back on for on road use, like using AC/Heater/Raining/Snowing well you get the picture. Heck I want to find new weather stripping for doors/windows/hatch on my XJ to seal it up better.

If it was an "Off-Road Only" and stored inside when being used (mine is anyway) I would remove all 4 doors and use a nylon on a small steel frame door. On a rig like that all unnecessary items would be removed anyway, more than just doors.
The OP could easily adjust the hinges to make the doors seat correctly.
Old 08-20-2014, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
The OP could easily adjust the hinges to make the doors seat correctly.
That's the plan. As far as adjusting the hinges, would simply the bottom hinge need to be shimmed to bring the outter door up? or should the hinges be moved up? I have never adjusted a door before, so I am just trying to plan out my plan of action for it.
Old 08-20-2014, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
The OP could easily adjust the hinges to make the doors seat correctly.
I was wondering when he might think of that instead of all the drilling
Old 08-20-2014, 02:27 PM
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aw cmon guys! give him a break lol
sure hes just trying to get his heep back together like the rest of us
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