MUKAK

i am in the process of installing new Pro Comp leafs and having a problem removing one of the bolts holding the leaf to the body

i soaked everything with PB overnite

i got the front bolt to back up about 3/4 of an inch and now its just spinning.. i was trying to tighten it but it wont get tight either it just spins.. i also tried to use my electric impact gun also to no avail it just spins in both directions..

what do i do?

here is a pic

123456bmx

The bushing is seized,keep spraying it with pb and use something like a pickle fork to pry the bolt out.

wiggles

Probably going to have to cut it, just hope the welded nut didn't break loose

smeltmaster1

just finshed that up today you have to cut your floor open and put a new nut in there and to cut it open cut it under the seat and it should be right under the front seat cross member

sean5294

i had to cut mine, broke it with a 5' breaker bar.

MUKAK

damn bolt got welded to the bushing... the other side came out just fine... cutting the bolt tomorrow.. cut the hole in the frame to see if the nut is still welded and it is

smeltmaster1

well if your nut is still there you can pull the sleeve out with the bolt out the hole and then just hammer it back into shape and torque the bolt down really tight i did that with my rear blot by the shackle and it is fine. just have to replace the sleeve and bolt

Donnie_K

make sure you back it ALL the way out of the nut, then cut it on both sides of the leaf. You'll have to get a new bolt from the dealership. Both mine were like that at the unibody end. If you cut it without backing it all the way, you'll have to cut a hole in the floorboard to remove the weld nut and put a new one in. Try not to have to do that.

MUKAK

where can i get a replacement bolt? what the size of that bolt? any1 knows?

smeltmaster1

if you have a shop around you that will sell it to you or the dealer

SpruceJedi

Stealership is way expensive for those bolts. I went to a specialty bolt supply shop and bought bolts to go in there. M14 is the thread, grade 10.9 (Metric Grade 8). Installed them with a nice big washer, All is well, way cheaper. Anti-seize the crap out of them.

Dan91

Its expensive because they are specialty shouldered bolts, heres a pic, see how the shank gets larger near the head of the bolt. Also the nipple at the end of the shank helps guide the bolt in. I'd avoid using a standard metric bolt. Moreover class 8.8 is not grade 8, more like grade 5. The dealer bolts are the proper class 10.9 strength(grade 8 equivelant).

Tom95YJ

X2, The bolts are not that expensive I bought new ones for my XJ when I did my lift. I figured I'd have to cut mine out but I didnt have to but I replaced them anyway

sean5294

i used a grade 8 equivalent from home depot. no problems so far.

SpruceJedi

Same, I have used grade 8 equivalent with no issues so far. I mispoke about the 8.8. You are correct, the 10.9 is equivalent to grade 8.