About to replace the cylinder head on my 01' XJ bc it cracked.
Luckily, I recently was able to buy a brand new MOPAR 0331 TUPY head (naked) for $150 and figured I'd install new valve springs, pushrods, rocker arms and lifters while I'm at it. (rather than installing the existing ones off the cracked head)

BEFORE I ORDER EVERYYTHING I JUST WANT TO CONFIRM WITH YOU GUYS THAT EVERYTHING LOOKS GOOD BEFORE I DO THE SWAP. LMK if I'm missing anything.
This is what I have in my crart at RockAuto-

• Rocker Arms: MELLING #MR740
• Push rods: MELLING #MPR437
• Valve springs: MOPAR PREFORMANCE #P5249464
• Cam Shaft Bearings: ENGINETECHCC480
• Lifters?
• Cylinderhead Gasket Set: FEL-PRO #HS26211PT
• Cylinderhead Bolts: FEL-PRO #ES71102

Also, since I'll have the engine opened up
-Is there anything else I should add or replace in addition while replacing the cylinderhead with the above parts?
-Are there any upgraded aftermarket parts that are a direct swap on the stock 4.0L that I could do to head to squeeze out a bit more horsepower/better performance?

I figured (if the cost isn't that much higher) that I mine as well replace the old stock 4.0L components of the head with aftermarket upgrades if I can squeeze a little extra horse power and performance.

Thanks everyone,
-Fletch

 

The camshaft bearings as is the camshaft are mounted lower in the block so you would have to pull radiator, condenser front grill, timing cover to get the camshaft out. You also need tooling to remove and install the camshaft and bearings. You do not need or want mopar performance springs if you are running stock camshaft. If you use those springs you need different retainers and locks. P5249464 springs. I run a stroker with big cam and can't find them on Rock Auto. Does your gasket set have new valve cover and intake/exhaust gaskets..? Go to a speed shop or on line and get a bottle or two of assembly lube. Also look on line for rocker arm shims, and thoroughly READ" 97 Grand"s posts on lifter preload. The shims are cheap but take a few days to get. I got mine from Hesco. Might as well do the lifters while your in there.

 

and thoroughly READ" 97 Grand"s posts on lifter preload

Why thank you. Thank you very much. -Elvis

 

Thanks you Mr. Bluejeep2001!
In that case I will just have to replace the just the cylingderhead in the meantime nd skip the new camshaft and bearings for another day.

The new cylinderhead I bought is bare naked, so I have to order, assemble, and install all the other parts parts ( new intake valve's, exhaust valves, valve springs, rocker arms, pushrods and lifters) in order to be complete the head for installation. My plan is to pre-assemble and build the new head before I drop it in the jeep.

Everything I'm ordering for the head is off of Rock Auto website list of the suggested parts for the "2001 Jeep Cherokee". My main concern ordering all these parts is the chance of something not fitting the new MOPAR TUPY 0331 head as it is for a 03-06 WJ. I just want to make sure everything "jives" well before I order everything.

• Rocker Arms: MELLING #MR740 ---> Link
• Rocker Arm Pivots: MELLINGMRM1717 ---> Link

• Valve springs: MELLING #VS2225 ---> Link
• Valve Spring Retainer Keepers: MELLING #VL1083 - - -> Link

• Intake Valves: MOPAR #53010512AA
• Exhaust Valves: MOPAR # 53010513AA

• Push rods: MELLING #MPR437 ---> Link
• Valve Lifters: MELLINGJB2011 ---> Link
• Cylinderhead Gasket Set: FEL-PRO #HS26211PT ---> Link
• Cylinderhead Bolts: FEL-PRO #ES71102 ---> Link

How does everything look parts wise? Do I have everything needed to fully compete the head for install?

 

Push rods rarely go bad unless run completely dry...if unbent and you can see light thru the hole ..reuse them. The u shaped piece at top is called bridge. That can probably be reused unless its in one of your kits. I didn't see valve stem seals , unless its in one of your kits. I don't know if new valves fit perfectly into new valve seats. You might want to buy a can of valve grinding compound and a valve holder tool...can't remember the exact name but its a stick with a suction cup at each end. . With the head upside down you smear valve grinding compound on top face of the valve then insert into its hole untill seated into position. Then mash the suction cup on and press down and spin the stick back and forth for several min. This mates the valve to its seat for a perfect fit. Then clean off ALL the valve grinding compound. Mark that valve as intake 1..then do e haust 1 and mark...you get the idea. Its not hard but takes an hour or two. Im sure there are videos on line...OR you cam bring the head and valves to a shop and let them do it..but its really not that difficult...please hunt down the posts by 97 Grand on lifter preload...you cant pre install the rockers and pushrods if you want to correctly set preload. You have to install the head then install 1 at a time the rockers and stuff to get the right measurements...thus ordering rocker shims-as previously mentioned. All of this is not overly difficult just somewhat time consuming. You will also need a valve spring compressor and a lifter removal install tool. I did my valve lifter preload with a magnetic dial indicator that was only 25 or 30 bucks but it helps to be accurate. See there was a reason the naked head was so cheap.

 

Pretty good reply there bluejeep.
Id be a little worried that the valve guides were the right size and you didn’t need oversized valve stems. Might better have a reputable shop assemble the head.
*usually* the intakes don’t need to be replaced; exhaust are what take a beating.
Good to replace springs.

I would offer that the count-the-turns method of preload is for all practical purposes just as good; it will get you into the tolerance range which is all that is required to have the pushrods ride at an acceptable place in the lifter, and the dial gauge method the setup doesn’t fit well on the back cylinders if the engine is in the vehicle.

Also will need the red or blue loctite for I can’t quite remember but there’s something you need to do to one of the head bolts to seal the water jacket? Help me out here somebody

 

The #11 headbolt...most front on drivers side passes through an opening in water jacket so it needs a good dose of permatex hi temp thread sealant. Also only takes 100 final torque instead of the 110 for all the rest.

 

That’s it. So Clearwater sells the head completely stripped. Hmmm

 

I don't think anyone sells a "complete" head. Most have the valves and springs installed, but not any of the valve monkeymotion.

 

As stated... Even though it's a "new" head you want to have a machine shop assemble/check the valvetrain head components... New heads and the quality control might not be what you'd expect I've had "new" heads with slightly warped and poorly machined surfaces, tight/loose valve guides, and valve seats not sealing as already noted.. Yes, it's an extra expense but a crucial step in making the head swap an easy process...Unless you're buying a preassembled head with a warranty and even then I've had stuff come direct from places like Edelbrock that didn't cut it... They won't cover damage to the engine just replace their junk... You didn't say how many miles are on the engine, but other than the valves and springs you could probably reuse most other head components.. Roll your pushrods on a flat table for a warpage check.. And use them as a starting point to check the preload.. The valve lapping compound/machinist bluing/suction cup process is a good indicator of sealing but most won't be able to check the guides with any accuracy...

 

As stated. Because is that new head, realllllllly new? Is that even possible?
I once replaced a crankshaft in my Buick V6, low oil pressure, worn journals. I went to a place with ‘ crankshaft’ in its name that I won’t name, and bought a Reconditioned crank….Long story short, it broke in half as I exited the highway one January day. Upon analysis I paid for from a metallurgy shop from a licensed P.E., they had merely taken a worn out of spec shaft and welded up the journals, then cut them down to give proper clearances with .010 oversized bearings which I installed.
Doing so left intact the original existing ruts, which was where the operating torques broke it. Broke it clean in half between 3 cylinders, right along the faults that were welded over.

 

Thanks guys for all the great input so far!
The jeep is a 2001 with 179K miles on it. Last time the belt broke while on the highway which caused it to overheat so bad that coolant was bubbling out of the puke tank and got so hot some of the injectors melted.

Here are some pictures of the ''new'' head. As you can see it has some cobwebs and light surface rust on it from being in storage so I think you guys are 100% right that I bring it to a machine shop. The intake valves also have a bit of surface rust but the exhaust valves are spotless.












I have 2 options:

#1 I'm considering just having a mechanic do the job but my biggest concern is that the mechanic does it wrong or half a** it. I know I can do it myself which is frustrating but because of cold weather and logistics being that the jeep is over a hour away in a parking lot makes doing it myself difficult.
I called one guy and was quoted $900 for the labor PLUS any parts needed. The jeep is my daily driver and I'm not Mr. Mega bucks so the thought of paying someone all this money for the jeep to blow up again is terrifying but I'm fine with paying it if it's all done without a hick-up.

#2
Saturday, I can get a ride to the jeep and take as much off the engine possible. If I can pull the old head on the jeep then I can have a reputable shop machine and assemble the new head with mostly new valvetrain components (new springs, rocker-arms, exhaust valves) and drop the head in myself another day.

BlueJeep, 97Grand, and Corky-I can't thank you enough for your awesome effort and input in helping me out with this!

 

Id bring it to a reputable shop and do the R&R yourself. Biggest danger of having a Mechanic do it, and not the only because they will never be as careful as you are, and you do sound competent,..is that they either don’t know how or don’t want to or never heard of setting the lifter preload. Most think you just torque them down and call it a day and this will not end well at all.

Also, if you do get to the point you’re ready to turn the key and fire it up, do NOT operate above an idle! FSM even says not above idle. Despite what others may say about run it at 2000 rpm. Run at idle and check that all the lifters are oiling well. First indication you got the preload right. You ARE replacing lifters, right?

 

Scarily, thats a lot of rust on the mating surface of the head...you might have to get that milled. I thought you were getting valves from Rock Auto...did they sell you rusty valves...thats unacceptable.

 

agreed 100%