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Hydrogen Conversion Kit

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Old 03-14-2018, 08:54 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by CobraMarty
Pretty 'bright' pictures of the spark kernel. I wounder how they keep the spark plug tips intact? Works great until the spark plugs are toast after 100 miles?
Absolutely, this would be an added cost in the long run for a daily driver. These are designed for racing where you are running a very rich fuel ratio for added power. This very rich environment would indeed benefit from more ignition. And when racing you don't really care how often the plugs need to be changed and the cost of this sacrifice.

Originally Posted by CobraMarty
I think another solution is to use a voltage amp for the coil (+) wire. Instead of feeding the stock coil 12v, feed it 16-18 volts. Kaboom spark. These products are already out there, like 'boost-a-pump' for fuel pumps.
Again... Absolutely. This would save the secondary power draw of the amplifier. But you would still have the issue of it frying plugs faster. While I think both concepts would be a benefit in a rich fuel racing environment where you don't care about the residual side effects... It could just be redundant in an normal everyday lean fuel environment.
Old 03-14-2018, 04:17 PM
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Only way to get a HFC into an XJ…

Old 03-14-2018, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jessenator
Only way to get a HFC into an XJ…

... over my dead body.
Old 05-22-2018, 01:50 PM
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I've re-accumulated some monetaries and have my cell up and running. I just need to solve some chemical reaction issues. The power of the cell diminishes with time indicating I am losing the electrolyte. I must find a way to counter-act that. I'm going to go back to baking soda for the time being (been using sodium and potassium hydroxide recently).

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Old 05-22-2018, 08:57 PM
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Had to drop in and tell you I am absolutely impressed with your dedication to this project Bro...

Please let me share with you what I found when I spent several years dedicating experimentation with this to the commercial truck industry on diesels. I had a hundred and six trucks to play with and the key pass to hook my laptop to the computers and set them as I like. I ran into the very same thing you are. It does work fantastic if the conditions are right and you sit right on top of them with maintenance.

You must have a bottom dump clean out and your plates must be of the up most quality... And yes it consumes all and everything introduced from the Periodical Table.

Here lies the problem... Attention and maintenance... We are too lazy as a society to really take advantage of this concept. We want the seats to remember who happens to be driving the car during this trip. Fat guy or the wife. lol

The trick and challenge... will be to make this concept as user friendly as possible for the average lazy *** car owner...
Old 05-23-2018, 02:11 PM
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This is why we use ultra pure water and palladium frit screens in laboratory grade hydrogen generators. The ones that use electrolyte require tons of maintenance, burn through both electrolyte and electrodes and have a lot of impurities in the hydrogen stream. They take less current, but in the end the added cost outweigh the extra money spent on using more electricity. Making hydrogen for little or no expense is like trying to make a perpetual motion machine. It looks good on paper, just break H2O down to H2 and O2, then recombine(burn) them to get energy. Problem is the energy required to break the bond is the same or greater than the energy released making the bond. When molecules combine they are seeking a lower energy state, simple laws of physics. If more energy was involved burning H2 and O2, than separating them, then water would spontaneously separate into H2 and O2 and the planet would be dry.
Old 05-26-2018, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jedijeb
This is why we use ultra pure water and palladium frit screens in laboratory grade hydrogen generators. The ones that use electrolyte require tons of maintenance, burn through both electrolyte and electrodes and have a lot of impurities in the hydrogen stream. They take less current, but in the end the added cost outweigh the extra money spent on using more electricity. Making hydrogen for little or no expense is like trying to make a perpetual motion machine. It looks good on paper, just break H2O down to H2 and O2, then recombine(burn) them to get energy. Problem is the energy required to break the bond is the same or greater than the energy released making the bond. When molecules combine they are seeking a lower energy state, simple laws of physics. If more energy was involved burning H2 and O2, than separating them, then water would spontaneously separate into H2 and O2 and the planet would be dry.
That is what I found also. There were some small advantages though when used on a big diesel engine that really did help some. These really do not feel the alternator load much at all so there is not much loss there. While there was not as much increase in fuel mileage compared to a gasoline engine, they were getting about a 10% increase and in a big rig that is actually pretty significant. Plus almost one mile a gallon is huge on a big rig. Even so, this small increase was almost not worth the maintenance issues.

But what was worth the time and trouble was the fact that the Hydrogen had a cleaning effect in the combustion chambers and on the pistons. It would remove existing build up and prevent future build up while used. This would in turn help the performance and mileage naturally just because there was no build up and they were running with clean cylinders. And after the system was removed it retained about 90% of this clean advantage until carbon built up again. So even just running it for awhile temporarily did these engines a great service as a cleaning agent.

But I would also like to add that this very same cleaning chemistry created by the combustion of hydrogen can be corrosive and eat up these parts if used continuously. This is a real factor not being discussed in this concept... The additional corrosive combustion chemicals created can also damage an engine in the long term creating shorter engine life at a cost of it's own.

Last edited by Bugout4x4; 05-26-2018 at 08:34 AM.
Old 05-27-2018, 07:08 AM
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Even a simple water injection system like just a windshield washer bottle and pump will clean the combustion chambers. Injecting water works wonders.
Old 05-27-2018, 08:25 AM
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This is before and after 3000 miles with water/meth.
Attached Thumbnails Hydrogen Conversion Kit-0301161803c.jpg   Hydrogen Conversion Kit-0216181401.jpg  
Old 05-27-2018, 06:22 PM
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If you pulled your head, the piston tops and combustion chambers would look almost new.
Old 05-29-2018, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
Had to drop in and tell you I am absolutely impressed with your dedication to this project Bro...

Please let me share with you what I found when I spent several years dedicating experimentation with this to the commercial truck industry on diesels. I had a hundred and six trucks to play with and the key pass to hook my laptop to the computers and set them as I like. I ran into the very same thing you are. It does work fantastic if the conditions are right and you sit right on top of them with maintenance.

You must have a bottom dump clean out and your plates must be of the up most quality... And yes it consumes all and everything introduced from the Periodical Table.

Here lies the problem... Attention and maintenance... We are too lazy as a society to really take advantage of this concept. We want the seats to remember who happens to be driving the car during this trip. Fat guy or the wife. lol

The trick and challenge... will be to make this concept as user friendly as possible for the average lazy *** car owner...
Yep. We're all a bunch of lazies when it comes to maintenance. I solved the chemical concoction issue. Just using straight white vinegar is the best. It cleans the plates and doesn't make a mess unlike everything else I have tried so far. It also reaches a finite amount of amp draw, so if I want to draw more amps and get some more heat inside the cell I will have to add or maybe even double up the amount of cells I have. I will be doing that today. This makes it safer for consumer vehicles' charging system. ALso, it's the only thing that has made any difference in my gas mileage. I tried the potassium hydroxide, aka KOH, and it worked great for about 30 minutes of run time and fizzled out (stop producing HHO) after that. The vinegar is so potent that if I don't use a check valve to stop the gas from venting into the intake manifold I will destroy my starter (waste spark ignition firing on the exhaust stroke fighting the starter at start up tore my starter up on the inside). I had to replace it in the parking lot on Friday morning when I left the gym. I got an Uber to take me down the street to the parts store. No electrolyte mix has ever done that. The white vinegar at 5% acetic acid is a powerful electrolyte IMO. I think it's the best stuff to use. I imagine the dry cell community doesn't like it because they use 2V's between each plate and have to force the amps through with a strong electrolyte to make anything happen. That wasn't my aim, and my design is giving me double my mileage without any electrical sensor tinkering.

The only other things I have really wanted to try are sodium and potassium carbonate (not bicarbonate). From what I have read, and seen in one video, it makes a very powerful gas and causes no mess (same as white vinegar). It also has the some characteristic of reaching a low finite amount of amp draw, which is a plus for my type of cell design. The vinegar is working so well that I am going to stick to that because it's cheap and you can just pour it in, and it leaves no mess in the cell. Although I think it is slowly deteriorating the nylon coating on the wires submerged. I will have to look for some alternative wires that will stand up to whatever the pH of vinegar is.

Mileage update: I've gone from 10MPG to 20MPG, and this is in an engine with low vacuum, say 13-14 inches. Most cars run at 17-20. My cell operates better with more vacuum, so a naturally aspirated 1.5 - 3 liter engine will stand to gain more than what I am getting right now. This is a fresh engine rebuild, the reason my gas mileage sucks is because of the extra 1200~ lbs of armor and lift. I can't wait to see what it does for a factory engine with higher vacuum. I've only got 5 cells inside it right now and it runs about 115 degrees according to my heat gun. I'm going to double up to 10 cells by putting in another row and see where that lands me. Maybe then I'll get 30MPG.

The reason my gas mileage is so great is because I use so little throttle. There's more power so I don't need to throttle it as much as I had to previously.

I don't even have the VOLO FS-2 ship in there yet which is supposed to increase hydrogen supplementation efficiency in the engine by learning the timing curves and adjusting ignition accordingly to make maximum benefits from the HHO.



Originally Posted by CobraMarty
Even a simple water injection system like just a windshield washer bottle and pump will clean the combustion chambers. Injecting water works wonders.
I tried that and it bogged my engine down occasionally and my gas mileage never improved.

Actually, when I got this cell design you see here up and running I started having smoke come out of the exhaust which I hadn't had before. It only did it for about 15 - 20 minutes and hasn't done it since.

Last edited by CoffeeCommando; 05-29-2018 at 04:27 AM.
Old 06-01-2018, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CobraMarty
Even a simple water injection system like just a windshield washer bottle and pump will clean the combustion chambers. Injecting water works wonders.
Yes it does... Injecting washer fluid is even better. I am hooking one up on my Dodge ASAP to see how well it really does do on my cummins. Summer is here and it could use some cooler induction temps.
Old 06-01-2018, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by CoffeeCommando
Actually, when I got this cell design you see here up and running I started having smoke come out of the exhaust which I hadn't had before. It only did it for about 15 - 20 minutes and hasn't done it since.
It was knocking crud off.
Old 06-02-2018, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
Yes it does... Injecting washer fluid is even better. I am hooking one up on my Dodge ASAP to see how well it really does do on my cummins. Summer is here and it could use some cooler induction temps.
Are you going to run pre or post turbo injection?
Old 06-03-2018, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Cummins93
Are you going to run pre or post turbo injection?
For several reasons I was thinking I would like to run post turbo injected at the intake. I don't see any reason why it should need to go through the turbo vanes and charge air cooler to eat these up. It gets 125 out here in the summer, so whatever cooling is done with a pre turbo setup would actually just be reheated back up again while going through the air cooler/(heater at 125 ambient) and not help the temp much. And I think it would create the best environment for the best efficiency injected as an induction mist rather than evaporated as a gas.

Have you done this yet? All the advice and experience I can get would be great as I design my set up. Been doing some homework but still putting it on paper.


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