Nice! Glad you got it straightened out. The light output is amazing!

 

Pretty darn sure that is what I read somewhere. I even found your post on hid planet trying to find it. Glad you got it figured out. That light output is amazing.

 

Thanks guys. I'm very pleased! Considering I used most of the components that Froehlich does in his $200 kits (just a few differences in execution), I think people are going to be very happy with the light output of his products once they get them. He's selling those about $50-100 too cheap. If i were selling these, I wouldnt let them out the door for less than $300. It would take me a day to make them, so at his price it wouldnt be worth my time.

 

Shhhhh.... I want to get some eventually.

 

Hey guys,

I have a quick question about wiring. I was going to use FX45 projectors with this relay harness;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xenon-HID-Conversion-Kit-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Wire-Upgrade-Pack-For-H4-9003-HB2-/370809696335?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5655faf04f&vxp=mtr&autorefresh=true
Both of my solenoid wires are red though (as opposed to yours with obvious polarity). Any idea of how I would tie these into the factory harness to activate the solenoids when the high-beams are applied?

What kind of harness did you use for the HIDs?

 

Where did you get the front blinkers?

 

Few problems here buddy. 1) That harness is for a single beam kit. 2) Those projectors only fit a D2S bulb so your going to need a D2S to AMP connector. 3) Thought I had a 3 hmm.. oh why are you looking at a 7 dollar harness when your talking about a 180 dollar set of projectors?

 

I traded for the projectors (helped my friend install a set of heads on his Mustang a few years ago), so I figured I would finally use them

Even with a bixenon wiring kit, the solenoid wires confuse me. I guess I'll just order a harness and do some testing. But the yellow wire seems to be a grounding wire according to hidplanet forums, so I am I right to assume that the red wires just need to be "bridged" with power, and it grounds through the frame?

There are pictures of the wiring on this website (wont link properly);
http://factoryxenon.com/shop/oem-03-...pair-retrofit/

I have the d2s to amp adapters already, and a set of Philips 85122+ bulbs as well, but I need to buy shrouds and I figure I will upgrade to clear lenses as well while I am in there.


I'll just pony up and buy one of these bixenon relay kits from TRS when I buy the lenses and shrouds;
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...ducts_id=14027


Ebay possibly;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-97-01-CHEROKEE-BUMPER-LIGHTS-TURN-SIGNAL-PARKING-LAMP-CLEAR-LENS-/271187273297?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AJeep%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item3f24056651&vxp=mtr

 

You got a great setup going keep it up with the moto harness. As far as wiring it up those 2 red wires with the connector should connect to the plug on the moto harness and the yellow is the ground.

 

AAH, its so much easier when I can see it on video
Thanks a bunch. Ordering the stuff from TRS right now, and my housings are already en-route to me.

I was going to use the epoxy putty method for securing the projector to the housing, but I think I might just stick to traditional nuts+bolts so I can have rotational adjustability and double up on the regular epoxy to seal it up.

 

Sounds like a good plan. Glad you got it worked out.

 

Ok guys, I started on my retrofit.

First thing I noticed is the Infiniti FX OEM projectors are a LOT bigger than I thought they would be in the housings. I pretty much had to remove most of the reflector for them to sit deep enough to clear the headlight housing lens! Because of this, I had to basically scrub my original idea of only using bolts to aim and secure the projector. No clue how to proceed now -- what the hell do you guys suggest I do?? I think my only option at this point is to use some epoxy-putty to lock it in place, and use the bolts to just keep tension after its aimed but I am not really fond of having to resort to this.

Take a look;




And here you can see my issue. There is BARELY enough room for me to keep these mounting "tabs" but they will absolutely snap unless the majority of the re-enforcement is done with epoxy putty.





I dont have my ballast to see what kind of rotational adjustment i need, but I MIGHT need to scrub the mounting tabs all-together. I was hoping to have more room for rotation, but cutting that much of the headlight housing was the only way to sink the projector deep enough to clear the housing lens cover. Eff me, this looked so much easier on paper...

As it sits, I can still pull it off I think. Hopefully I will have my ballasts soon and I'll try to do a "test" run with some hot-glue in place of the epoxy putty.

 

Worked on it some more -- I dont think there is a way to mount them without resorting to pretty much exclusively epoxy putty.


How much room do I have behind the headlight?

I have really long screws, and was thinking of trying to mount the projector behind the reflector, and using nuts + bolts to secure it. And basically wrapping the **** out of the projector housing with aluminum roofing tape + lots and lots of jb weld (or possibly fiberglass?)

Basically only the glass lens part of the projector would be inside the headlight housing, and I could trim the shroud all the way down to get it to sit flush.

I'll try it out tomorrow and see if it looks like it would work at all. Grr, this is frustrating

 

Looks like it ain't worth the time a day... lol

 

Investinwaffles-If you haven't started the epoxy (or even if you have) the JB Weld Steel stick is amazing for what you need to do! I just fit some equally huge Maxima bi-xenon projectors on mine. I have similar gaps in-between. The steel stick fills them perfectly, and is easy to use. Tips, buy 1-2 tubes per light. Wear gloves, that stuff sticks to your hand for ever!

Keep it up. It's sooooo worth it....





I will paint the headlight retention ring black in spring.