Help me choose between these kits
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Help me choose between these kits
I've been trying to decide which one of these three to get. Which one is the best bang for the buck? I plan on driving my jeep on the road and through woods style trails, no rock crawling or anything to extreme. Thanks.
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ode=sus_xj_kit
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.as...7&partID=13781
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_3x.html
I know this has been beyond beaten into the ground, but it is a lot nice to get straight forward answers then to search and read 500 other posts. Which one of these kits has everything I need? Will work the best for me? And will keep my wife from wanting to kill me for blowing a lot of money....
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ode=sus_xj_kit
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.as...7&partID=13781
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_3x.html
I know this has been beyond beaten into the ground, but it is a lot nice to get straight forward answers then to search and read 500 other posts. Which one of these kits has everything I need? Will work the best for me? And will keep my wife from wanting to kill me for blowing a lot of money....
#2
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 4.0
i would go RC or Rustys. And get adjustable trac bar and your good to go. I run RC and its been great no problems and i have ran 3 different setups of their stuff
#4
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
skip the rusty's kit, it does not include lower control arms... if you are going the get the Rusty's get a set of fixed(or adjustable) lower control arms
the rough country does include the Lower control arms
as does the pro comp... but the pro comp is junk
I have the Rough Country (less the lower control arms), I am happy with it
the only issue with not having lower control arms is that you only get around 3 or 4 inches of downward suspension travel... because the lower control arms will smack the axle side mount on droop...
you just need to relocate your track bar
1) unhook the track bar from the axle side and let it hang down
2) push the front of the body back and forth, do it hard and fast...
3) jump on the bumper, again hard and fast
4) repeat step 1, your axle it now centered under the Jeep
NOTE: at this point, if you have access to a welder, you should weld the original hole closed (on both sides) and use a dremel and angle grinder to make it smooth (make sure to prime and paint the welded area after wards, also any welder will do, I used a Lincoln HD Pack 3200... loaded with flux core)
5) raise the track bar back up to the axle side mount... you will notice that the track bar no longer lines up with the original mounting hole (or where the hole used to be if you welded it)
6) now drill a new hole...
7) slide your track bar back into place and place a nice big thick washer on the bolt before you replace it... this helps to spread the load out over a larger area...
8) torque to 75-85 ft/lbs
9) go buy some beer to celebrate... you just saved yourself $120+ bucks
the rough country does include the Lower control arms
as does the pro comp... but the pro comp is junk
I have the Rough Country (less the lower control arms), I am happy with it
the only issue with not having lower control arms is that you only get around 3 or 4 inches of downward suspension travel... because the lower control arms will smack the axle side mount on droop...
you just need to relocate your track bar
1) unhook the track bar from the axle side and let it hang down
2) push the front of the body back and forth, do it hard and fast...
3) jump on the bumper, again hard and fast
4) repeat step 1, your axle it now centered under the Jeep
NOTE: at this point, if you have access to a welder, you should weld the original hole closed (on both sides) and use a dremel and angle grinder to make it smooth (make sure to prime and paint the welded area after wards, also any welder will do, I used a Lincoln HD Pack 3200... loaded with flux core)
5) raise the track bar back up to the axle side mount... you will notice that the track bar no longer lines up with the original mounting hole (or where the hole used to be if you welded it)
6) now drill a new hole...
7) slide your track bar back into place and place a nice big thick washer on the bolt before you replace it... this helps to spread the load out over a larger area...
8) torque to 75-85 ft/lbs
9) go buy some beer to celebrate... you just saved yourself $120+ bucks
Last edited by ericfx1984; 03-11-2011 at 12:15 AM.
#5
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0HO
another thing to consider is the condition of your rear springs... if they are sagging then you really do not want to use an Add a Leaf...
or consider building an bastard pack instead and selling the Add a leaf
or consider building an bastard pack instead and selling the Add a leaf
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#8
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0HO
what are you basing that on? if you move the hole over 3/4" and fill it in with a welder so it is just as strong as before then when you go bigger you just adjust your adjustable track bar in as little tighter...
besides for big lifts the stock axle mount is very limiting... it creates clearance issues...
moving the hole outward actually helps out a little bit with those clearence issues...
but honestly the best way is to cut the steering stabilizer axle side bracket out of the way... weld a new, open topped trackbar bracket above the stock one and remount the steering stabilizer axle side mount in a way that it will not block the track bar from moving upward...
basically I am saying that there is NO fact in what you are saying, it is just an faulty opinion... and spreading faulty opinions is not a good idea...
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