Guide: AW4 Rebuild and Shift Kit Install
11-08-2017, 10:25 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Guide: AW4 Rebuild and Shift Kit Install
I've decided not to post a guide out of respect to Trans Go. Their instructions sent with the kit are FANTASTIC and highly detailed with tons of pictures... I'd basically be copying what they wrote. I have completed this mod (and trans rebuild) and am pleased with the results. I drilled the valve body out for hot rod shifts and don't regret it at all; 1-2 is pretty harsh so if that's not your thing, drill the plate out for "truck" shifts. Also note, I didn't use the parts for the "low hold (stays in 1st in 1-2 position)" because I have the Rad Designs Rail Shifter installed which already does this electronically. If you have basic tools, you can do this! No specialized tools were required (for the shift kit mod). All you need are basic sockets, a magnet, some cutters (to cut small springs attached to accumulator pistons) and some patience. If anyone comes upon this thread and has questions, please feel free to PM me and ill be happy to help and give tips and pointers.
A FEW NOTES:
-The transmission rebuild kit came with new valve body gaskets. If you're only doing the shift kit, you'll need to buy the valve body gaskets separately.
-the drill bits included with the shift kit are not labeled so you will have to eyeball them. There are only 5 bits, if you place them in order by drill bit height you'll be good to go
-Be careful when you separate the valve body halves or you're going to have check ***** everywhere... Don't lose them! The instructions tell you exactly where they need to go and instructs you to remove some completely
And for this of you wondering about the transmission... when I pulled it apart, there were some blown o rings on the forward direct clutch piston, burnt clutches, solid o-rings on the OD support piston that were literally "burnt" onto the piston and had to be cut off with a dremel, and scoring in the primary pressure regulator bore of the valve body. I think these explain the various issues I was having prior to rebuild
A FEW NOTES:
-The transmission rebuild kit came with new valve body gaskets. If you're only doing the shift kit, you'll need to buy the valve body gaskets separately.
-the drill bits included with the shift kit are not labeled so you will have to eyeball them. There are only 5 bits, if you place them in order by drill bit height you'll be good to go
-Be careful when you separate the valve body halves or you're going to have check ***** everywhere... Don't lose them! The instructions tell you exactly where they need to go and instructs you to remove some completely
And for this of you wondering about the transmission... when I pulled it apart, there were some blown o rings on the forward direct clutch piston, burnt clutches, solid o-rings on the OD support piston that were literally "burnt" onto the piston and had to be cut off with a dremel, and scoring in the primary pressure regulator bore of the valve body. I think these explain the various issues I was having prior to rebuild
Please do not use this thread to debate about the reliability of the aw4, the pointlessness of rebuilding one, and that I should swap in a junk yard unit. I'm well aware of the pros/cons of each option and I'm simply rebuilding because I enjoy garage time.
Some resources:
- Your Handy-dandy Service Manual
- AW4 tear down:
- Another tear down:
- Shift Kit: 340-HD2, Transgo reprogramming kit.
- Rebuild Kit: 97006AF, Kit includes Paper & Rubber Items, Seals, Sealing Rings, Friction Clutches & Steel Plates
- Band: N97022
- Filter: 97712
- Fluid Pump: R97500
- Sprags
- Intermediate: A97652
- Overdrive: A67650C
- Rear Planet: A97654
- Torque Converter: TO28
More to come over the next few weeks...
Last edited by dcollins3208; 02-13-2018 at 09:18 PM.
11-24-2017, 04:59 PM
#2
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
All apart. Will be cleaning/re-assembling over the next few weekends. As you'll see in the pic, I went ahead and disassembled the transfer case and will be freshening that up as well. It's in definite need of a chain; I could see where it had slapped the inside of the case due to the slack. More to come on the valve body...
Last edited by dcollins3208; 12-07-2017 at 01:20 PM.
The following users liked this post:
AudioFreq (12-17-2020)
12-07-2017, 08:09 AM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just a little update... and set back. While inspecting parts after the valve body disassembly, i found scoring in the bore of the primary pressure regulator. Off to the Jy for a valve body
Last edited by dcollins3208; 01-27-2018 at 07:27 PM.
Trending Topics
02-27-2018, 11:12 PM
#9
Junior Member
Hope you get it right, I overhauled mine a couple of years ago and it got neutralized just almost a year after overhaul.
I'm done with AT, going to replace the one I got in use right now with a manual tranny and replace the 4.0 with a slightly modified chevy 305, a good couple of extra hp's.
I'm done with AT, going to replace the one I got in use right now with a manual tranny and replace the 4.0 with a slightly modified chevy 305, a good couple of extra hp's.
02-28-2018, 08:23 AM
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Anel
Hope you get it right, I overhauled mine a couple of years ago and it got neutralized just almost a year after overhaul.
I'm done with AT, going to replace the one I got in use right now with a manual tranny and replace the 4.0 with a slightly modified chevy 305, a good couple of extra hp's.
I'm done with AT, going to replace the one I got in use right now with a manual tranny and replace the 4.0 with a slightly modified chevy 305, a good couple of extra hp's.
02-28-2018, 08:00 PM
#11
Junior Member
I feel good about it. Pretty much everything that went in is new. I even got a new trans cooler and tubing because I didn't want any potential metal flakes finding their way back to the case. Also, the valve body was an absolute mess... highly recommend anyone who rebuilds their trans to completely disassemble the vb and valves and clean thoroughly. Both mine (which ended up going in the trash due to scored valves) and the junk yard unit were extremely dirty internally.
I've done everything for it, even using additives to gain back 2nd but with no results, a friend who's an a/t specialist told me to perform seal overhaul.
I'm doing crap. Here in Panama seal kit cost almost 200 and overhaul kit almost 500 .
I'm a mechanic, but trust me, I'll never overhaul an auto tranny again. I rather buy a rebuilt one and replace it.
I'm on my way to get a High Mountain Chevy Silverado, I'm not gonna use this rig for off road like I'm using my XJ. That's why I decided to change the 4.0 and tranny for a 305 chevy and 5 speed manual tranny.
Last edited by Anel; 02-28-2018 at 09:56 PM.
02-28-2018, 08:56 PM
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by RRXJeeper71
did you get it all back together?
how is it?
I want to do the same to my 01
how is it?
I want to do the same to my 01
04-21-2018, 02:32 AM
#14
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
I'm in the middle of this right now. Long story short, 2 Jeeps, 93 and 96. 96 is wrecked, drove the 93 and trans was slipping/overflowing and smoking. Swapped 96 trans in and same thing happened, turns out the integrated trans cooler in the radiator ruptured and mixed the fluids. Coolant in the trans doesn't work well! Needless to say I am rebuilding the AW4. I'm in the middle of about 6 different big projects (bikes, cars and house) so this rebuild has been on the back burner. I messed up the last snap ring in the trans and a bearing surface so I need to find a snap ring and clean up that bearing surface. I may have questions!. I was hesitant about this halfway through tear down and then stumbled up this post, gives me some hope. Bought the rebuild kit from Oregon Performance Transmission, so now its lots of cleaning the goopy fluid out and reassembly. May have some valve body questions, took it apart and having a hard time piecing it back together (instructions are a little grainy). Anyway, glad to see this has been done with success. 