Great flex?
#1
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Year: 1991
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Great flex?
I have a 4.5 RC add a leaf with 2in coil spacers and 2in ford blocks on 35....
i plan to go bigger with 37 in tires and also add a dana 60 and 14bolt
Heres the problem, with the 35 i dont really have great flex with the sway bar disconnected but the tires already rub. with the 37 and i know im gonna be introuble but i am trying to get low center of gravity with excellent articulation. the axles are gonna be full width which i think might help with the rubbing but i know im gonna have to cut more out of the fenders and cut the rear and weld them back together. do yall have any suggestions?
i plan to go bigger with 37 in tires and also add a dana 60 and 14bolt
Heres the problem, with the 35 i dont really have great flex with the sway bar disconnected but the tires already rub. with the 37 and i know im gonna be introuble but i am trying to get low center of gravity with excellent articulation. the axles are gonna be full width which i think might help with the rubbing but i know im gonna have to cut more out of the fenders and cut the rear and weld them back together. do yall have any suggestions?
#2
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
if your gonna stick to 6" of lift with 37's you wanna really focus on droop instead of up travel. you are gonna wanna cut the inner flare if you havent allready and bump stop. what kind of front end suspention are you thinking of? 3 link, y link, 4 link? any ways shocks, trac bar and link/control arms are gonna be your focus on droop. getting everything worked out perfectly takes time.
#3
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Year: 1991
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I think im gonna stay with the standard 4 kink and get longer bumpstops and shock but ive seen dome with dana 60s and 6 in of lift. it flexed great but he had the full width axles which helped with the clearence of the fenders. The guy didnt really say what all suspension modifications the jeep had to it so thts why i was asking.
Which is the best suspension set up for flex.. 4 link, 3 link or y link
Which is the best suspension set up for flex.. 4 link, 3 link or y link
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3 link with panhard front and 4 link rear usually. guys usually dont use a front 4 link. its more stable but less flex than a 3 link. and a y link has less than both.
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 upgraded
my y-link and leaf springs flex pretty well...
you cant do a double triangulate a 4 link up front due to space.
you can in the rear.
I would y link front and triangulate 4 link in the rear.
get the longest shocks you can (I am 13" travel front and 12" travel rear)
and then cut away until it works.
there is a guy on pirate running 40's on 2" lift and fullwidths but he is way cut
you cant do a double triangulate a 4 link up front due to space.
you can in the rear.
I would y link front and triangulate 4 link in the rear.
get the longest shocks you can (I am 13" travel front and 12" travel rear)
and then cut away until it works.
there is a guy on pirate running 40's on 2" lift and fullwidths but he is way cut
#7
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not to steer you away from the site but this is where you want to be looking for ideas:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=83
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=83
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#8
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even better i have something close to what your shooting for. its a 60/14 combo running rear leafs... FLEXY!!!!! http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...553&highlight=
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taking the rear sway bar off will help... i dont even have one one mine and its my daily driver. you will be perfectly fine without it
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Year: 1986 Comanche
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I had a y-link on my old Cherokee and removed the rear sway bar when she was lifted. You don't need a rear sway bar and most Cherokee's didn't come with one.
I prefer the 3-links on the front (built the setup for my Comanche). If you plan on keeping a low CoG, you will want to raise the cross member as much as you can. I plan on running the 3 link front and keeping the rear leaf sprung with the one tons (60HP/10.25). The Jeep will be getting 37's on about 4" of lift and will still have a good amount of uptravel after trimming.
The key to big tires and a small lift is not being afraid of trimming.
I prefer the 3-links on the front (built the setup for my Comanche). If you plan on keeping a low CoG, you will want to raise the cross member as much as you can. I plan on running the 3 link front and keeping the rear leaf sprung with the one tons (60HP/10.25). The Jeep will be getting 37's on about 4" of lift and will still have a good amount of uptravel after trimming.
The key to big tires and a small lift is not being afraid of trimming.
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Year: 1991
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Ha im not afraid to trim but if i go anymore in the rear ill have to weld the fender weels which ima have to ask around. i def. need a sye kit i havent got one yet and its got 6.5 of lift haha. after the sye could i take my crossmember spacing out to raise it closer to the body?