Good first mods??
07-07-2013, 07:26 PM
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Good first mods??
Hello I am just about to purchase a 1987 Jeep cherokee laredo 5 speed with dana 30 and dana 35 open with 4.88 yukon gearing running 35x12.50. my plans was to DD and wheel it on the weekend. I was wanting to add quick disconnect sway bars from rusty and remove rear sway bar upgrade radiator to flex-a-lite 3 electric fan from rustys due to over heating issues. Do i need an electric fan switch? also I wanted some good power boosts but i do not want forced induction and I do not think NOS is a good idea for a DD? any ideas?
07-07-2013, 07:28 PM
#2
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Instead of throwing aftermarket crap at the cooling system, service it properly and it'll run fine. I'd recommend looking for a set of 4.88s and a c8.25, or 8.8inch if you plan on going bigger.
Those are the two best things you can do at the moment.
Those are the two best things you can do at the moment.
07-07-2013, 09:04 PM
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07-07-2013, 09:16 PM
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Agreed, not ideal. but 35s wont immediately explode a d35 like everyone seems to think. Personally because of the long trips I go on, I wouldnt trust it. 1500km away from home, 600km away from the nearest town is not somewhere I want to be with a broken axle.
07-07-2013, 09:19 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Maintenance. Make sure your **** will work on the trail. Build your suspension to work and cycle in the best way for how you wheel and drive.
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07-07-2013, 09:58 PM
#8
As long as they know what they are asking for
My brother wheeled a year with his tj on 35's with a d35. Never one problem.
Some guys can snap them like tooth picks. I have seen more guys survive with them than problems.
So I just say it might be fine, it might break. You are in the cross roads.
Honestly I think most guys would be fine. Few wheel hard that I have seen. I have seen guys snap d60's with 37's . So where does it end? LOL
07-07-2013, 11:49 PM
#12
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
As others have suggested, focus on maintenance first. Address your cooling system issues. You can get a new radiator, fan clutch, water pump, and thermostat from www.rockauto.com for about a total of $200. With those big meats and the added temps on your trans, I'd get at least a dual core unit.
If you ask me, the next step, just for good preventive maintenance and to keep from driving yourself crazy later, would be to go through Cruiser's ground refresh and firewall connector refresh, whether you need it right now or not. No sense having the thing take a crap in the middle of nowhere and leave you stranded when you can take care of that now.
Your rear axle may or may not let you down at any random moment. Be cautious with the skinny pedal when you're bogged down. I'd look for a 8.25 rear out of an early Liberty to get a 29-spline stronger axle and the added benefit of rear disk brakes. You'll need a few brake line parts and connectors to make it work. several write-ups on this site. Save up for 4.88's (if you keep running 35's) and maybe a Spartan for that axle too. Hey... if you're gonna swap to a 8.25, you might as well do it once and get all the bells and whistles. Don't make the mistake of getting an earlier 27-spline.
Personally, unless you plan on doing a whole lot of rock crawling, I think 35's are a bit overkill. There are tons of guys on here that have extremely capable rigs running on 31/32/33 inch tires. The smaller tires will be easier on the wallet at purchase time, and easier on the wallet weekly on fuel savings. I'd give that consideration some serious thought since you say this will be a DD as well.
Look into swapping in Ford or Neon 4-port injectors. May help a tad with MPG on a big-tired rig (but don't count on it), but will surely help with throttle response and can be an aid for slow/hard starting engines.
If you don't already have them, get some Rigidco or similar rock sliders. Cheap insurance that has saved many an XJ. About $220 plus shipping if you paint them yourself.
Service you trans by doing the "3 quarts at a time drop the pan a bunch" method, or better yet, do the "forward flush-use the trans pump" method for more thorough results with a lot less work and much faster. I have a write-up I did somewhere in the past. Then, as someone else suggested, get an auxiliary trans cooler if you want to keep running huge rubber.
If you ask me, the next step, just for good preventive maintenance and to keep from driving yourself crazy later, would be to go through Cruiser's ground refresh and firewall connector refresh, whether you need it right now or not. No sense having the thing take a crap in the middle of nowhere and leave you stranded when you can take care of that now.
Your rear axle may or may not let you down at any random moment. Be cautious with the skinny pedal when you're bogged down. I'd look for a 8.25 rear out of an early Liberty to get a 29-spline stronger axle and the added benefit of rear disk brakes. You'll need a few brake line parts and connectors to make it work. several write-ups on this site. Save up for 4.88's (if you keep running 35's) and maybe a Spartan for that axle too. Hey... if you're gonna swap to a 8.25, you might as well do it once and get all the bells and whistles. Don't make the mistake of getting an earlier 27-spline.
Personally, unless you plan on doing a whole lot of rock crawling, I think 35's are a bit overkill. There are tons of guys on here that have extremely capable rigs running on 31/32/33 inch tires. The smaller tires will be easier on the wallet at purchase time, and easier on the wallet weekly on fuel savings. I'd give that consideration some serious thought since you say this will be a DD as well.
Look into swapping in Ford or Neon 4-port injectors. May help a tad with MPG on a big-tired rig (but don't count on it), but will surely help with throttle response and can be an aid for slow/hard starting engines.
If you don't already have them, get some Rigidco or similar rock sliders. Cheap insurance that has saved many an XJ. About $220 plus shipping if you paint them yourself.
Service you trans by doing the "3 quarts at a time drop the pan a bunch" method, or better yet, do the "forward flush-use the trans pump" method for more thorough results with a lot less work and much faster. I have a write-up I did somewhere in the past. Then, as someone else suggested, get an auxiliary trans cooler if you want to keep running huge rubber.
07-08-2013, 01:19 AM
#13
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The cherokee already has 4.88s but i was thinking of going like 32s or 33s for the exact reason macgvyer35 stated and from what you saw about the dana 35 i will not positive my next tire purchase will be 33s or 32s. I was going to do all mat. work anyways but how long will 4.0l last me if i take good care of it? also what is ford or neon 4 port injectors you were talking about?