Front full axle removal help.
#1
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Front full axle removal help.
Hey guys, I had a wobble in my 96 xj and took it into my local shop to see if they could help me out and they have made it worse. They have drilled a second hole in my track bar bracket and welded a plate on the top side of the bracket and now I can't even use the stock hole and it's made everything worse. I'm going to attempt to take the front out and swap it with another stock Oneida have and start fresh. I was just wondering if there was a step by step/video/ how to for taking it out? I'm new to all of this and honestly scares the shi* out of me haha. Reminds me of doing my first tattoo. Here is a pic of what I got back , hard to see but there is a plate welded on top so the track bar physically can't go back in the stock hole.
Any help would be appreciated and help this Aussie out.
Any help would be appreciated and help this Aussie out.
#3
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Before you remove it, though, you should know that isn't so far-fetched of a fix. When you lift above a certain height, you either need to get an adjustable track bar or relocate it by moving the eyelet closer to the stock track bar's opposite end. Wobbles are often caused by an offset front axle. Your track bar holds the axle from moving left and right. That may have been their fix to re-center it.
Furthermore, you should check the geometry yourself by measuring frame to axle. While you're at it with the tape measure, another common cause of wobble is incorrect toe. Toe is how parallel the front tires are to each other. Measure the width of the front of both tires, then measure the width of the back. They should be the same, or if anything toe-in (the fronts of the tires should be about 1/8" closer to each other than the back). Measure outside tread to outside tread.
Furthermore, you should check the geometry yourself by measuring frame to axle. While you're at it with the tape measure, another common cause of wobble is incorrect toe. Toe is how parallel the front tires are to each other. Measure the width of the front of both tires, then measure the width of the back. They should be the same, or if anything toe-in (the fronts of the tires should be about 1/8" closer to each other than the back). Measure outside tread to outside tread.
Last edited by alpine.adrenaline; 02-28-2014 at 09:08 AM.
#5
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Is that spring loaded shock supposed to be a steering stabilizer? I would think that having a spring there would be a bad idea putting excess force working against the steering box. Just my .02 but that looks like a bad idea to me.......
#6
Beach Bum
That looks like a poor job,a bad idea and what does it fix? If the mechanic just moved the track-bar, that will only center the axle. There are likely worn bushings somewhere providing all the bolts are torqued and track-bar bracket is secure.
Suspect that heim-joint and bushing in the track-bar also depending on age.
The welded on bracket he did looks close to contacting the track-bar. And the bar looks like its at the end of it's travel. If so, this will severely limit axle articulation, or worse.
Axle swaps are easy on the XJ. Replacing the front you will not even have to bleed the brakes.
In my opinion, that coil-over steering damper will make the issue worse and be hard on the steering box. A properly working steering and suspension does not need a damper to work well.
Suspect that heim-joint and bushing in the track-bar also depending on age.
The welded on bracket he did looks close to contacting the track-bar. And the bar looks like its at the end of it's travel. If so, this will severely limit axle articulation, or worse.
Axle swaps are easy on the XJ. Replacing the front you will not even have to bleed the brakes.
In my opinion, that coil-over steering damper will make the issue worse and be hard on the steering box. A properly working steering and suspension does not need a damper to work well.
#7
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Thanks guys, mechanic recommended the tough dog stabiliser as he has the same one. The track bar is also at full travel and not sitting well. I have since ordered a ironrock offroad track bar set up along with OTK steering and will defiantly get rid of the RTC stabiliser. I appreciate your advice
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#8
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Very good choice in steering components. ^^
I have had good results with my crappy Monroe steering stabilizer, so I personally dont think they make much difference as long as they are in good shape (and I cant imagine having a spring on there would help the situation, lol).
I have had good results with my crappy Monroe steering stabilizer, so I personally dont think they make much difference as long as they are in good shape (and I cant imagine having a spring on there would help the situation, lol).
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#13
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Here is the stabliizer brand
http://www.toughdog.com.au/?page_id=77
And I have a spare dana30 sitting here with new ironrock track bar, OTK steering, new lift kit, uni's, ball joints etc.... So I figured I'd just start fresh. I really just wanted advice on how to remove the whole housing as I have never done it and everyone seemed to over look that part thanks heaps for the advice on the wobble and stabliizer tho.
http://www.toughdog.com.au/?page_id=77
And I have a spare dana30 sitting here with new ironrock track bar, OTK steering, new lift kit, uni's, ball joints etc.... So I figured I'd just start fresh. I really just wanted advice on how to remove the whole housing as I have never done it and everyone seemed to over look that part thanks heaps for the advice on the wobble and stabliizer tho.
#14
CF Veteran
Here is the stabliizer brand
http://www.toughdog.com.au/?page_id=77
And I have a spare dana30 sitting here with new ironrock track bar, OTK steering, new lift kit, uni's, ball joints etc.... So I figured I'd just start fresh. I really just wanted advice on how to remove the whole housing as I have never done it and everyone seemed to over look that part thanks heaps for the advice on the wobble and stabliizer tho.
http://www.toughdog.com.au/?page_id=77
And I have a spare dana30 sitting here with new ironrock track bar, OTK steering, new lift kit, uni's, ball joints etc.... So I figured I'd just start fresh. I really just wanted advice on how to remove the whole housing as I have never done it and everyone seemed to over look that part thanks heaps for the advice on the wobble and stabliizer tho.
Disconnect drag link and track bar from XJ. Disconnect shocks. Disconnect brake lines. Disconnect upper and lower control arms from axle. Remove axle.
#15
Beach Bum
Here is the stabliizer brand
http://www.toughdog.com.au/?page_id=77
And I have a spare dana30 sitting here with new ironrock track bar, OTK steering, new lift kit, uni's, ball joints etc.... So I figured I'd just start fresh. I really just wanted advice on how to remove the whole housing as I have never done it and everyone seemed to over look that part thanks heaps for the advice on the wobble and stabliizer tho.
http://www.toughdog.com.au/?page_id=77
And I have a spare dana30 sitting here with new ironrock track bar, OTK steering, new lift kit, uni's, ball joints etc.... So I figured I'd just start fresh. I really just wanted advice on how to remove the whole housing as I have never done it and everyone seemed to over look that part thanks heaps for the advice on the wobble and stabliizer tho.
On the fresh axle, does the track-bar mount ontop of the axle to match the OTK steering? When the drag-link angle changes, the track-bar must make the same change so the two stay parallel.
Also, before the new axle goes in replace the upper control arm bushings if not already done.