Front Drive shaft question
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Front Drive shaft question
How much of the slip yoke shaft do y'all have exposed on your front driveshaft? When I did my dana 44 swap I kept my stock front drive shaft and I know the pinion is longer.. This is what mine looks like now.
I have been wheeling it this way for a while now and haven't really noticed any limitations I'm just interested in the opinion of someone who has experience in this. It's not really a big deal if I have to shorten the driveshaft some, I'll just cut it, weld it and then have it balanced I'm just curious if that is even necessary.
Pictures of others front driveshafts would be a big help!
I have been wheeling it this way for a while now and haven't really noticed any limitations I'm just interested in the opinion of someone who has experience in this. It's not really a big deal if I have to shorten the driveshaft some, I'll just cut it, weld it and then have it balanced I'm just curious if that is even necessary.
Pictures of others front driveshafts would be a big help!
#3
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Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0
You need about 1/2 of your D/shaft splines exposed sitting on flat ground. If you get much up travel the way your shaft splines are you'll have a chance of screwing up your transfer case.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It depends on your suspension and how much the driveshaft compresses when it is cycled.
If you have long arms where the pivot is near the transfer case, it won't change much.
If you have long arms where the pivot is near the transfer case, it won't change much.
#5
Technically it would be down travel where it compresses as your axle moves closer to the t case due to the short arm arc.
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Year: 1994
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I had my 200+ lbm brother stand on the front bumper and jump up and down. Looks like at full stuff (up-travel as Mr White pointed out) that the drive shaft does extend as the axle moves farther from the T-case so no worries there. I then put jacks behind the lower control arm mounts on the frame and lifted the jeep to get some down travel and the shaft gets short enough to nearly bottom out. A close examination of the shaft also shows evidence that it may have hit in the past. I think to be on the safe side I'm going to shorten the shaft.
When i welded the brackets to the dana 44 I did it so that the pinion angle would be nearly in line with the t-case for my specific lift which I think is why I have gotten by with this setup for so long. I'll feel better about it though and it shouldn't be more than an 1.5 hour of work plus the balance which should be cheap.
When i welded the brackets to the dana 44 I did it so that the pinion angle would be nearly in line with the t-case for my specific lift which I think is why I have gotten by with this setup for so long. I'll feel better about it though and it shouldn't be more than an 1.5 hour of work plus the balance which should be cheap.
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Year: 1994
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I've shortened drive shafts before and here is a ton of info:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/shaft/diydriveshaft/
I think, if I'm going to do it right, this is my only option.
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