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Flex pic
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...6c6f81d7e.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e5707a2aa.jpeg so after a year with my set up I finally got around to flexing it out at work. Lift is a iro 3 link there rock link kit, re 5.5 coils with a 1.5 spacer to level it out and removed factory spacer. Rear is Rusty’s Offroad 4.5 leafs with iro 1.5 boomerang shackle. I wanna change that to a 2 inch tho slight sag in back I hate it. Front coil buckets have a re 3 inch bump stop extension and stock upper bump stop. In these pics the bump stop was hitting the bump extension and I had about 1-1.5 inches around tire before hitting fender that is trimmed just over where the fender flair bolted up. Coil spring was just about compressed all the way. I’m thinking of adding a 1 inch bump stop to replace the stock one and still keep g the extensions on the coil buckets. I forgot to look at the shock o. The pass side as I need new ones. With the Jeep at ride hight not flexed our I have 6 inches between bump stop and my extensions on the coil bucket. the rear I have the dirt bound u bolt plate with the bump stop hanging off the side of it. Again I got about 1-1.5 of room before tire hits fender but the rear bump wasn’t hitting the body. The factory bump stop in the rear was removed what I got it so I might put them back I. Because there was like 1-2 inches before the rear bump stop was hitting. all in all I love the flex and have wheeled it. I have to relocate my hora due to tire hitting it when completely stuffed and sight trimming in the front lower section of front fender. I also want to adjust my control arms and track back now that it has been a year and everything is settled. pucs do t do this Justus how big and flex it has. |
Impressive how level the body is still!!
I need to find a way to do this to mine. |
What steering setup and track bar are you running? Thinking you could get a few more inches on that flex...
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It’s stock steering and a Rusty’s Offroad track bar. Body is prett level I got wanna change the rear shackles to really dial it in dead nuts |
Forgot to mention the unibody is plated from front to back and behind both front bumpers. Found a company that makes plate for that. Also steering box spacer and unibody brace from track bar mount to other side of the unibody. |
Looks like there is something limiting it. I can flex more on short arms with 35s. Shock lengths right?
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No I need to measure for shocks. This was at work so I didn’t want to take the shocks off then on. Pics don’t make it look like it’s high but it wAs. What’s the best way to measure for shocks. |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3f169c0bb7.jpg
35s with 4"s of short arm lift |
I got to measure for shocks |
Your stock steering is limiting you as well.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...40f426d9c9.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...0f0d147594.jpg I, too, am limited by my shocks, but it's handled everything I've tossed at it so far, so... |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...fe6c6cfc5d.jpg
I like the ride and flex my short arms give. When I eventually go long arms i'll buy SFR's brackets and make my own links. I'm running 13" travel shocks up front and 10.5" in the rear with towers. |
Can I keep my track bar and change my steering and add and measure for shocks to help? Or should track bar be changed also? |
Anything over 4.5"s would benefit from a OTK steering and with that you should do a OTA track bar to keep the steering geometry right. Once you go over 4.5" and start messing with long arms to get the most out of it you need to drop some coin and do some fab work to get it right.
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Quests I got to start saving now lol |
Guess* |
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