Flat towing a locked cherokee?
 

So yeah, I got a new truck now so my plan is to flat tow the XJ to offroad parks. Right now it's got an aussie in the rear, but I really want to add one to the front diff. Do you suppose this would make it pull weird in a flat tow situation?

It won't make a difference since you'll put the transfer case in neutral to flat tow-it.

It should only make a difference if the axles are locked. (un opened).

There's a procedure, steps you can follow before flat towing. Which should be listed in the owners manual.

If for some reason the transfer case is or becomes out of neutral, causes possible damage to e.g. the front ball joints with or without lockers installed. Plus other potential damage from the transmission being in gear or park.

If the front and/or rear axles are locked, it would primarily be the same as driving on pavement with locked axles. Also would effect the towing vehicle maneuvering and how the Jeep responds to being flat towed.

Permanently locked axles I would use a tow dolly or flat bed.

Here are some procedures found online, to flat tow a Jeep Cherokee.

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The procedure is different depending on what transfer case and transmission you have.

For Selec-Trac (NP242):

1. Shift transmission into N (neutral)
2. Shift transfer case into neutral
Note: Full-Time light will stay on
3. Shift transmission into D (drive) or 1st (manual) and make sure there is no movement.
4. Turn ignition key to the unlocked OFF position
5. Shift transmission into P (Park)

For Command-Trac (NP231):

1. With your transmission in P (park), shift the transfer case to 2H and confirm the Part-Time light is off.
2. Shift the transmission into R (reverse) and drive 10 ft. backwards then shift into D (drive) and drive 10 ft. forward to make sure the axle is disengaged.
3. Shift transmission to N (neutral)
4. Turn off engine, leaving the key in the unlocked OFF position
5. Shift transfer case from 2H to N
6. Shift manual transmission into gear or automatic into P (park)

Remember to use your parking brake! With the transfer case in neutral your transmission will not hold your Jeep in place.

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I towed my YJ with a welded rear for at least 5 years. Never any problem. Also towed an XJ with a TrueTrac for at least 4 years. Thousands of miles with NO problems ever.

Ron

You might have a problem with the front welded.

Truetrac is normally open, so you shouldn't normally have any problems, unless you have use a tow brake, brake buddy, etc. , I would think could potentially lock up. Auto locking and LS differentials diffs can be effected from braking (as well as inertia while turning, etc.)

I don't know, i've only flat towed using open diffs. mostly on highways, freeways and up in the mountains.

The main problem with flat towing is usually when backing up. Most of the time you can't back more than a couple of feet without disconnecting. So you don't want to get stuck in middle of the road while turning around.

Not sure what the point of flat towing a trail rig is. You tow your rig if certain mods (tires, lockers, suspension) make it not suitable on the highway. But flat towing, your tires are still wearing, your axles are still locked, your suspension is still swaying/death wobbling down the highway. Plus if you break it, you can't flat tow a broken rig any easier than driving it, unless its a blown engine or something.
Put it on a trailer, or drive it.

I second this. If you're not trailering, you might as well be driving the thing.

I normally only tow the Jeep behind a small older motorhome, sometimes used when off-road for up to several months.

Otherwise I bring a tent and forgo towing.

Some people I know tow or trailer Jeeps because they have been modified. A few aren't licensed for on-road, and need to be towed to a site.

I might prefer to use a flatbed, but you need to figure the additional weight, when pulling behind a motorhome or camper.