Do i need a sye for a 3in suspension lift?
11-29-2011, 12:52 PM
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: in line 6, 4.0L
Do i need a sye for a 3in suspension lift?
I have a 1999 jeep cherokee xj with a 3in rc suspension lift. which would be my best option, a tc drop, some shims, or a sye? Thanks!
11-29-2011, 12:54 PM
#2
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 I6
Wouldnt hurt. Put the lift on and go from there. Some people dont have vibrations at 3 inches so they leave it alone. But if you plan on going bigger in the future then I would get an sye and call it a day.
11-29-2011, 01:09 PM
#3
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Year: 1995
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Agreed, a t-case drop would be a waste of money if u plan on goin bigger at all in the future. Plus you'll want the extra clearance.
11-29-2011, 01:22 PM
#4
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A slip Yolk Eliminator does NOTHING for binding drive lines.
It's the double cardan on the drive shaft that stops the binding.
Drop the cross member and loose some of the lift you have. WHY?
raise the motor mounts or get a double cardan rear shaft, which can be done with or without a SYE.
It's the double cardan on the drive shaft that stops the binding.
Drop the cross member and loose some of the lift you have. WHY?
raise the motor mounts or get a double cardan rear shaft, which can be done with or without a SYE.
11-29-2011, 01:28 PM
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As others have posted, every Jeep is different. I just put on an Ironrock 3" lift onto my '00 XJ, and I have some slight vibrations. It's nothing SUPER serious as it only is felt around 2500-2900rpms, but they are there now. I plan on doing a Hack-n-Tap in the near future so I can "live with it" for now. Put the lift on and see how it rides...if you don't have the vibrations, cool! If you do, then take the appropriate action.
11-29-2011, 03:17 PM
#7
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Year: 1997
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Engine: in line 6, 4.0L
Thanks for all the input guys, ive got the 3in on and there is not very much vibration, but i plan to go up to 4.5 or 5in lift so ill probably go with the sye.
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11-29-2011, 03:25 PM
#8
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A slip Yolk Eliminator does NOTHING for binding drive lines.
It's the double cardan on the drive shaft that stops the binding.
Drop the cross member and loose some of the lift you have. WHY?
raise the motor mounts or get a double cardan rear shaft, which can be done with or without a SYE.
It's the double cardan on the drive shaft that stops the binding.
Drop the cross member and loose some of the lift you have. WHY?
raise the motor mounts or get a double cardan rear shaft, which can be done with or without a SYE.
11-29-2011, 04:58 PM
#9
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Wow I'm surprised one one freaked a s**t yet on idea of tcase drop.
I have a tcase drop on a ~3.5/4 inches of lift. Mines a DD, weekend worrier so honestly a tcase drop is okay for me. That way I have no vibes and that 1 inch really isnt going to hurt me that much. I have no rock rails or anything so I'm hoping to keep the rocks off of from my underside for a wile. I'm planning on going bigger once this rig become a trail rig, but until then think I'll be fine.
I have a tcase drop on a ~3.5/4 inches of lift. Mines a DD, weekend worrier so honestly a tcase drop is okay for me. That way I have no vibes and that 1 inch really isnt going to hurt me that much. I have no rock rails or anything so I'm hoping to keep the rocks off of from my underside for a wile. I'm planning on going bigger once this rig become a trail rig, but until then think I'll be fine.
11-29-2011, 05:24 PM
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
A slip Yolk Eliminator does NOTHING for binding drive lines.
It's the double cardan on the drive shaft that stops the binding.
Drop the cross member and loose some of the lift you have. WHY?
raise the motor mounts or get a double cardan rear shaft, which can be done with or without a SYE.
It's the double cardan on the drive shaft that stops the binding.
Drop the cross member and loose some of the lift you have. WHY?
raise the motor mounts or get a double cardan rear shaft, which can be done with or without a SYE.
agree. and also a SYE makes driveshaft removal easier because you wont loose all ur T-case fluid once you pull it out
11-29-2011, 05:40 PM
#11
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
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SYE is the best way to eliminate any problems, i run an iron rock offroad hack and tap on my 96 with a 4 inch lift and ive had no problems. i did however bend the output shaft on the transfer case when i was running without the sye and i had a 1 inch transfer case drop. worth the 200 bucks to buy the hack and tap.
11-30-2011, 09:29 AM
#12
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Year: 1995
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If you want to go the cheaper route you don't have to spend $500 on the sye and shaft, and if you are going the cheaper route why waste $30 and spend the time taking away clearance?
11-30-2011, 10:57 AM
#13
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Year: 1995
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Get a hack and tap and a stock front drive shaft, youll spend less than 200. If you do a transfercase drop and give up ground clearence, you should have stayed stock and just cut the fenders for bigger tires, because its a dumb *** idea.
11-30-2011, 01:48 PM
#14
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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i got vibes at 59mph with my 3" lift on 30" tires. i drove it like that for a year then got a jb conversions full SYE and rebuilt a grand Cherokee shaft. it was only $250 and i am sure glad i did it because when i did the swap and took off the old tail housing it had all kinds of hairline fractures up and down it. i would recommend an sye or tcase drop. SYE is the best though. even if it just a Hack and Tap.
11-30-2011, 01:51 PM
#15
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A t - case drop is a waste of time even if you don't plan on going bigger. Remember those body sock things that are flesh color you see on tv, and the big fat girl puts it on and shes like A TON skinnier. Sure, she might look skinnier in clothes, but its a ****ty fix for a real problem, just like a transfer case drop. Don't be a fat girl in a body sock, get a SYE. I reccomend hack and tap. Besides who would want to unwrap some big fat girl in a body sock once they got home? thats false advertisement.
Sye is always the anwser
Sye is always the anwser
Oh so sig worthy!