Disc Brake Swap preparations
#1
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Year: 1998
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Disc Brake Swap preparations
Hey everyone,
I know there's a few threads on this topic, but I am preparing to begin this weekend and want to make sure I have the right parts. Can anyone confirm the following items?
Rotors:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...451_0129741876
Pads:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...02B_0408806234
E-brake shoes:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...PB_0319403303#
C8.25 gasket:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...047_0306858354
I think that's all I need. Also, can anyone recommend what gear oil I should use for the C8.25 with open diff? This is my first time working on a diff.
Also open to any other suggestions or recommendations from anyone has done the job. Appreciate it much! Thanks
I know there's a few threads on this topic, but I am preparing to begin this weekend and want to make sure I have the right parts. Can anyone confirm the following items?
Rotors:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...451_0129741876
Pads:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...02B_0408806234
E-brake shoes:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...PB_0319403303#
C8.25 gasket:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...047_0306858354
I think that's all I need. Also, can anyone recommend what gear oil I should use for the C8.25 with open diff? This is my first time working on a diff.
Also open to any other suggestions or recommendations from anyone has done the job. Appreciate it much! Thanks
#2
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I bought the cheapest rotors ($25 each) I could find,2 bottles of 85w/140 ($10-?) store brand gear oil,got a tube of gasket maker ($8),Yukon axle bearings & seals ($40),$13 E-brake shoes,& used pads ($3.20).
Not a hard swap.Just takes a little time,about 2-2 1/2 hours.
Not a hard swap.Just takes a little time,about 2-2 1/2 hours.
#4
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Year: 1998
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I've seen all kinds of different numbers on the gear oil. I know that lockers require a different kind.
Dave, do you think those ebrake shoes that came with the kit you sent me are still good enough to use? I might skip those if I can.
Dave, do you think those ebrake shoes that came with the kit you sent me are still good enough to use? I might skip those if I can.
#5
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Year: 2001
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I just did this swap on my '01XJ about a month back...
Don't forget a dremel tool/stone to open up the brake backing plates (assuming you're installing on an 8.25" rear-end). Lubelocker gasket is a good idea as mentioned already. Brake Cleaner (a couple of cans) to clean the new rotors from all the oil they're covered in and other things that might need cleaning. Also, I'd suggest brushing all the used brake parts w/a wire brush and blowing them off w/compressed air to clean up what you're working with before installation.
TIP... I'd recommend loosening the brake caliper bleeder screws before you install and then snug them back up. Just to make sure you don't 'round' them off trying to get them loose when bleeding after assembly.
One other tip that is VERY helpful... heat up the bolt in the rear gear assembly before you try and loosen it as it's held in w/blue locktite and can be 'stuck' if not heated up before trying to loosen.
There may be a few things I forgot... be sure and read through all the "how-to" threads that are on this site and others and you should be good to go.
Good luck and you won't regret it!!
#6
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Thanks Red!! I already have the dremel stones, I'm gonna see about doing that part tonight maybe. Any idea of a measurement or how much needs to be hollowed out for the 8.25?
Looking forward to getting started on this!!
Did you guys put your XJ in 4x4 to prevent it from drifting while lifting up the back end? Only other part I'm concerned about lol, and wood blocks will not grip my garage floor
Looking forward to getting started on this!!
Did you guys put your XJ in 4x4 to prevent it from drifting while lifting up the back end? Only other part I'm concerned about lol, and wood blocks will not grip my garage floor
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Thanks Red!! I already have the dremel stones, I'm gonna see about doing that part tonight maybe. Any idea of a measurement or how much needs to be hollowed out for the 8.25?
............
Did you guys put your XJ in 4x4 to prevent it from drifting while lifting up the back end? Only other part I'm concerned about lol, and wood blocks will not grip my garage floor
............
Did you guys put your XJ in 4x4 to prevent it from drifting while lifting up the back end? Only other part I'm concerned about lol, and wood blocks will not grip my garage floor
I don't know the exact amount to take off... for me it was more a trial and error. Try to slip on the backing plate and note where it's hitting, remove that material and then try again... and repeat. It's not that much material.
I have a couple metal wheel blocks that I use. Very handy to have around and really cheap to buy. I've had mine for ~ 20 years and they do a fine job. I don't trust wood blocks on a concrete floor not to slide...
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#8
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Thanks again, can't wait to get started on this tomorrow morning. I decided I'm going to put the Jeep up on all jackstands since that's probably my safest bet.
Can anyone give tips on removing the axle shafts? I've never done this before and I don't want my spider gears to fall out or anything like that
Can anyone give tips on removing the axle shafts? I've never done this before and I don't want my spider gears to fall out or anything like that
#9
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You have to use a 12 point 1/4 in. wrench to remove the X-shaft bolt. Remove the bolt, shaft , push the axles in & the C clips should fall off. If they don't, rotate the axle shaft & it will.
I spiders will stay put if you don't mess with them.
As long as the area you are working on is semi-flat you are OK with just jacking up the rear.
I do it ALL the time & haven't had a problem-yet.
I spiders will stay put if you don't mess with them.
As long as the area you are working on is semi-flat you are OK with just jacking up the rear.
I do it ALL the time & haven't had a problem-yet.
Last edited by Big David; 05-24-2013 at 02:29 PM.
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You have to use a 12 point 1/4 in. wrench to remove the X-shaft bolt. Remove the bolt, shaft , push the axles in & the C clips should fall off. If they don't, rotate the axle shaft & it will.
I spiders will stay put if you don't mess with them.
As long as the area you are working on is semi-flat you are OK with just jacking up the rear.
I do it ALL the time & haven't had a problem-yet.
I spiders will stay put if you don't mess with them.
As long as the area you are working on is semi-flat you are OK with just jacking up the rear.
I do it ALL the time & haven't had a problem-yet.
#13
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I guess I should have typed jack off the rear AND put it on jack stands.
I do this ^^^^^ all the time & haven't had my XJ roll off yet.
Again,the ground needs to be almost flat but not perfectly flat.
#14
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I ended up just jacking up the rear and putting jackstands on and placed the rear tires in front of the front ones. No problems.
My only problem now is I can't get that !@#$%^& cross shaft retaining bolt out
My only problem now is I can't get that !@#$%^& cross shaft retaining bolt out
#15
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You have to use a 12 point 1/4 in. wrench to remove the X-shaft bolt. Remove the bolt, shaft , push the axles in & the C clips should fall off. If they don't, rotate the axle shaft & it will.
I spiders will stay put if you don't mess with them.
As long as the area you are working on is semi-flat you are OK with just jacking up the rear.
I do it ALL the time & haven't had a problem-yet.
I spiders will stay put if you don't mess with them.
As long as the area you are working on is semi-flat you are OK with just jacking up the rear.
I do it ALL the time & haven't had a problem-yet.