Spun Carrier Bearing Dana 44?
#1
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Spun Carrier Bearing Dana 44?
So, I have this rear Dana 44 I took to get completely rebuilt. It came out of a 87 Cherokee.
The shop tells me that the Diff Carrier Bearings were spun in the housing.
Anyone experience this? How to try to fix?
There is a method of putting some punch holes and/or green Locktite on the housing and bearing strap. What about silicone or steel shim tape wrapped around the bearing?
Thanks for any advice.
The shop tells me that the Diff Carrier Bearings were spun in the housing.
Anyone experience this? How to try to fix?
There is a method of putting some punch holes and/or green Locktite on the housing and bearing strap. What about silicone or steel shim tape wrapped around the bearing?
Thanks for any advice.
#2
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Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0 I6
I dont fully undertsand your problem? What can the shop not do get the carrier out?
You arrow points to the bearing caps.
Remove those caps and remove the shafts and the with some persuasion you can remove the carrier.
There are bearing races on each end of the carrier that the carrier bearings roll in.
You arrow points to the bearing caps.
Remove those caps and remove the shafts and the with some persuasion you can remove the carrier.
There are bearing races on each end of the carrier that the carrier bearings roll in.
#3
Seasoned Member
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The Diff isn't stuck. The old Bearing Races were spun within the bearing cap and the housing so that the new bearing race has a slight bit of movement. There are score marks from the old bearing race on the bearing strap and the housing.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#4
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Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0 I6
Yeah I am not sure what to do about that. I can't offer input on how to fix it as I did not encounter anyproblems like this when I regeared my D44.
Maybe tightening the carrier bearing preload would help with this. I almost want to say you will need a new housing.
What could have caused this... too loose of a carrier preload that allowed the races to turn in the bearing cap?
I dunno. Have you thought about calling a machine shop or taking it by to see what they suggest? I would def make a few calls to some Diff shops to see what they suggest. Randy's rack and pinion, Just Diffs to name a few see what they say.
Maybe tightening the carrier bearing preload would help with this. I almost want to say you will need a new housing.
What could have caused this... too loose of a carrier preload that allowed the races to turn in the bearing cap?
I dunno. Have you thought about calling a machine shop or taking it by to see what they suggest? I would def make a few calls to some Diff shops to see what they suggest. Randy's rack and pinion, Just Diffs to name a few see what they say.
#5
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Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0 I6
Found this with a google search. I am edumacating my self in the process.
Good info here.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=820849
Good info here.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=820849
#6
Junior Member
That's for a bear spinning on a carrier.
Honestly, I'd tell you to not spend another dime on this housing.
Get rid of it any way you can, cut your loses and find another carrier.
Ultimately, building that housing is going to lead to nothing but trouble down the road.
Honestly, I'd tell you to not spend another dime on this housing.
Get rid of it any way you can, cut your loses and find another carrier.
Ultimately, building that housing is going to lead to nothing but trouble down the road.
#7
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Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
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I posted that thread thinking maybe the ideas would work on the housing side also.
Its a dana 44 i would do what i could to save it.
But if it costs a ton then u may have to scrap it.
Its a dana 44 i would do what i could to save it.
But if it costs a ton then u may have to scrap it.
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#8
Junior Member
D44 or not it's not worth the potential lose of a set of gears, set-up price and a locker.
Sure, it could be done, but I'm sure I wouldn't want to chance it.
I promise there's another Dana44 out there. I hope you didn't get robbed when you bought it.
Where'd it come from?
Sure, it could be done, but I'm sure I wouldn't want to chance it.
I promise there's another Dana44 out there. I hope you didn't get robbed when you bought it.
Where'd it come from?
#9
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
FYI...Here's another pic without the gears. This isn't my actual housing but it shows the bearing journals I'm talking about.
Thanks for the comments.
Thanks for the comments.
#10
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#11
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, I've spent a ton of $$ on this already. I paid a lot for the housing too. All the parts and a G2 Disk Brake conversion kit for a full rebuild. I never imagined to inspect the bearing journals when I picked up this axle housing.
I have a Jeep Only 4x4 shop working on this and talking to his gear contacts. This is a very reputable shop. He thinks it could work by putting in some punch marks and putting sealant on the bearing strap. No final descisions made yet, more research, evaluation, and consideration.
There always seems to be some kind of problem when trying to upgrade.
I have a Jeep Only 4x4 shop working on this and talking to his gear contacts. This is a very reputable shop. He thinks it could work by putting in some punch marks and putting sealant on the bearing strap. No final descisions made yet, more research, evaluation, and consideration.
There always seems to be some kind of problem when trying to upgrade.
#13
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I wouldn't use the punch method. That should be a last ditch effort. In my experience it doesn't worked. But I've only used it as a last ditch effort when everything else has failed me. I think you can have the mating surface of the cap machined down to create a tighter fit. Or you can have the surfaces where the bearing race sit knurled.
Personally I'd have the bearing surface knurled and then use some loctite sleeve retainer as insurance. The only thing is I don't know how a machine shop would chuck up and axle housing to knurl the surface.
Either way a regular repair shop is not equiped to handle something like this. You either need to talk to a machinist or an axle/gear specialty shop.
Personally I'd have the bearing surface knurled and then use some loctite sleeve retainer as insurance. The only thing is I don't know how a machine shop would chuck up and axle housing to knurl the surface.
Either way a regular repair shop is not equiped to handle something like this. You either need to talk to a machinist or an axle/gear specialty shop.
#15
Junior Member
but, like you said... Who'd going to be able to inexpensively chuck up an entire axle?
I'm sure it can be done... but is it not worth finding another 100 dollar housing?
I'm sure it can be done... but is it not worth finding another 100 dollar housing?