jerb7

Sold my first jeep and made a little profit. Picked one up for $800 with a clean clear title and a ift. Heres the kicker. Its a bastard lift. Front coils out of a ford thunderbird and rear leafs out of an s10. Rubicon shocks and extended brake lines. I can tell the LCA are too short. The coil is definitley being arched towards tha back of the rig. At any speeds above 30 mph if you hit a pebble in the road you get the death wobble. Yes it is for sure the real deal, death wobble. My question is can i buy adjustable LCA and call it good or should i start all over up front with new coils and CA's and track bar.

ArcticXJ

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cliffy

Did they install an adjustable track bar to accommodate the 3" lift ?

jerb7

I think it more than 3" of lift. Maybe closer to 4". The tires are 30x9.5. I think its more than 3 because it looks like more than the lift i had on my 94 and it was a Rough country 3" front coil replacement and LCA replacement. This is a 75% trail rig so i wanna keep it lifted. I will use it sparingly on city roads. Just for quick trips to the store. I dont really wanna sell it for front suspension issue. i could get front coils and LCA fairly cheap and a track bar drop kit. I wish i had a stock one to see how much lift it actually does have.

jerb7

No. It has the stock track bar. Those are the 2 things i will try first. Adj track bar and adj LCAs

Tsaani97xj

Sounds like a reasonable plan to me. You may want to consider uppers as well. CA bushings can cause or contribute to DW.

F1Addict

If you turn your wheels all the way to the left or right while moving forward, does your steering wheel return to center when you release it? If not, or if it seems to need a little help going straight again, you've probably got a caster angle problem. Not surprising considering the lift you've described (which is only bad in that it is not complete). Lifting a vehicle without the ability to correct for skewed geometry can definitely lead to Death Wobble just as much as worn or loose components.

I learned recently that lower control arms are used to set wheelbase, which will naturally affect castor. To correct the castor, you will need adjustable upper control arms. I agree that an adjustable track bar is also a wise investment.

Checking lift is fairly straight forward. From the center of the hub to the lip of a stock fender flare should be 17 1/2" front and 17" rear at stock height. It appears you're missing the stock flares so the alternate is to measure to the panel crease in the sheet metal that runs the length of your XJ. The front measurement for stock height is 22 1/2" to the bottom of the crease and the back is 25". Any deviation from those numbers will indicate how much lift (or drop) you have.

jerb7

I dont remember if the steering wheel returns to center. Ill check that and the heighthwhen i get home today. Thats some good info. The reason i was more concerned about the lower control arms is i found a chart somewhere that shows the upper and lower control arm lengths from stock all the way up to a 10" lift. It shows the upper is 15" and is good up to a 4" lift. So i should probly go ahead and get adjustable upper and lowers. Thanks yall!

jerb7

Ok it looks like ive got close to 4.5 in the front. 27.25 from center of hub to crease. 28.5 in the back. So more lift than I thought.

ArcticXJ

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jerb7

Thats what i was figuring. Sad thing is I can buy a whole complete lift for about $500. Just the adjustable upper and lowers are $400. Track bar is another 150 to $200. Might just have to buy a whole new 3" lift kit. My last one seemed to do fine. It was a rough country, but i had zero issues and enjoyed it.

ArcticXJ

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ArcticXJ

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jerb7

Arctic. Yes it has extended brake lines and rubicon shocks. the rear end seems fine also. So i think maybe buying just new front coils and the and tracbar from Summit you are talking about. decisions, decisions.

jerb7

Im a huge Summit fan also. Im stuck between the summit parts and a company called Iron Rock Offroad. Id really like to get rid of the factory control arms though.