Lyon

Hey guys, I see that the stock Dana 30 axles are kinda on the weak side but I'm curious to know what the symtoms would be on one that would snap if it had a front locker in the axle. I'd like to hear some stories from some people who've experienced this. Also, where do these normally snap? At the axle joint or at the spline end near the carrier? Thanks.

SeriousOffroad

The noise of the shaft breaking is hard to miss.

The wheel with the broken shaft won't ne driven by the locker, and again, you'll know from the sound it makes.

builtnotbought89'

Most of the time, but when I snapped the ears off I didn't hear it... it can break anywhere on the shaft from the splines to the ears (either side). From what I've seen the ujoint is usually the first to fail, then in turn takes the ears off the shaft(s)!

builtnotbought89'

Also just recently learned that if you pull the shaft out just to get home, you must leave the stub shaft in the hub or the bearing can come apart!!!

Lyon

Ok, thanks guys. I guess my loud single clunk noise is my bad ball joint turning on only some corners not all. I thought I had a shaft problem because I changed the axle joint and got a loud bang almost like a gun shot right after this. But, it's on the opposite side I worked on. Just kinda coincedental.

According to the directions changing the axle joints, You're supposed to have the TC in 4 low in order to tighten the axle nut. Well, I had it 4 high when I did it because I didn't have room to move it to get it to coast in 4 low. When I went to tighten and torque the axle nut, the axle ratcheted and then finally locked and stopped. I was able to torque it to spec at that point. Any ideas if I may have done any damage to the springs or any components to the locker by doing this? Because I really thought the locker was engaging by itself around turns. Thanks again guys.

gvns8

Thats what i did to mine recently. Broke the same way builtnotbought89' described. Broke a c-clip on the Ujoint and the U-joint cap fell off. I drove on it a couple blocks, then as turning into a parts store, that happened. If you have an aussie locker like I do, you will know you broke a u-joint ...it won't stop clicking.

PingPong

There is no mistaking breaking an axle shaft. I have the ability to break the inner shafts. I have done it 3 times. I cant count how many stub shafts I broke before going to alloys.. and 760 joints. Now it seems the weak link is the shafts themselves. if you look at my webshots page under big dogs dame you can see what I did to Alloy Usa shafts on 33's and 4,10's

SeriousOffroad

You don't need to place the t-case in 4hi or lo.
When torqueing the hub nut, place a prybar inbetween the ears on the shafts. The prybar will rest against the inner c and prevent the shafts from turning when you torque the nut.

JeepingDan

I've aways broke the U-joints at the wheel.
Ive done it twice to both sides aways when the wheels were turned all the way left or right.
I now try to keep wheels as straight as possible when I gotta hammer the skinny pedal or climbing cause when it's turned you reduce the strength of the joint by 50% or more.

Lyon

When I get more time I will check out your pics for sure.
Well, I haven't actually heard or seen an axle shaft snap yet. And on mine I'm hoping I never do. haha! Sucks you had it 3 times already. Better axles may be in the works for the future. I'm going to see FrankZ when I'm ready.

Lyon

I didn't want to put any stress on the ears. I figured 150 plus lbs of torque may not be the best thing for them. I used the search engine and found a write up and the guy who did it mentioned to have it in 4 low in order to torque that axle nut since it would stop the whole assembly from spinning.

What's weird now, is that the noise is no longer. I pulled my front shaft, changed 1 U-joint that had a little play in it and replaced the CV kit for it. It had 2 busted roll pins and part of the race was snapped and binding the axle when it would spin. This is thinking outside the box and figured it shouldn't have anything to do with it, but I though with it binding, it was say "confusing" the locker in to thinking it was in 4wd with the added drag on it. I really don't know. The noise went away right after I reinstalled the repaired front shaft. Oh, and it wasn't a complete turn that was needed to make it pop. You could turn the wheel oh so slightly, hold it there, then accelerate slightly and it would have that gun shot sound. I'm doing the ball joints in the morning so hopefully everything will be quiet for a while. I'm doing the Moog's even though some guys recommend the Spicers over them. I already bought the Moog's locally and I'd have to order Spicers online and wait for them to be shipped then return the Moogs. And I need it done for tuesday so I have to go this way. There is a cruise night with an obstacle course near me that I want to check out so I need it done. Well, that's not the only reason.

Lyon

I added washers behind the steer stops to hopefully help eliminate that. I'm hoping that not turning the wheel "that much" might help atleast a little. I noticed in mud that they felt ike they were binding when the front locker was engaged as well. Thanks for the tip!

Lyon

I didn't even think of this. Thank you for the info!

Lyon

Hey guys, I just wanted to thank you for the information. It turns out I didn't have a bad axle like I thought which I am happy about. I had a little water in the front diff and it was making the Spartan locker act funny. For some reason, it wouldn't ratchet on certain turns and the teeth would catch and lock the front gears for a split second and release. I drained it, flushed the locker with brake cleaner, inspected the springs ect, found no damage and reinstalled the cover and added new fluid. Noise is gone. I'm glad because it sounded like a gunshot going off almost everytime I turned the wheel. I guess that shows how important it is to check your diff fluid from time to time. Thanks again for all the help!