Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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Dana 30 ARB

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Old 08-26-2014, 09:57 PM
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So...I'm planning on adding an ARB to the front of my XJ project and it has 3:55 gears and I plan to keep that ratio and will be running 235 tires no plans of any larger.

Will the stock axles hold up, or should I upgrade them? Any other upgrades I should do while I'm in there?
Old 08-26-2014, 10:02 PM
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It really depends on the type of wheeling you do. With a small-ish tire you should be fine. Carrying a set of spares is always a good idea.

And FWIW, Consider an Eaton Elocker instead.
Old 08-26-2014, 10:44 PM
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Thank you for the advice, but why the Eaton over the ARB or an ECTED in the front of an xj with plans as a weekender for not too tough of trails, a little mud, some snow and ice? Or why not a recommendation of a trutrac?

Would it be more feasible to install a set chromoly axles at the same time as the traction device instead of carrying spares? Maybe even zerk fitted axles seals, new bearings, manual hubs, etc..

It's not a crawler more of an explorer and a vehicle for the wife to take to the cabin in Utah and hit some trails in the area.

I started a build thread for it, a well rounded square build, here on the Cherokee forum, take a look, shoot me a pm with your ideas and available parts you think I should consider. Also check my YJ build on the wrangler forum, yj section, yj from the grave build and you will see how serious I am with my builds.

I notice you really follow-up to threads that people post and being a dealer that is good in my book..So the ball is in your court and if you read my thread here on my xj build and check out my yj you will understand what I mean by that and bounce some ideas off me.

Last edited by Jrozar; 08-26-2014 at 10:46 PM.
Old 08-26-2014, 11:05 PM
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Ected? NEVER!
It's not a true locker because it DOES NOT mechanically lock the axle shafts together.

ARB requires the addition of an air compressor and a plastic airline.

The Elocker uses a simple 2 wire connection at the axle and comes with a complete harness, including the relay and switch.

Although I generally love recommending alloy shafts....especially if you buy from me ...but let's be realistic, you aren't building a hardcore rock crawling rig. Save your alloy money for something more beneficial.
Old 08-26-2014, 11:35 PM
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That's what I keep hearing about the ECTED..see I like the idea of posi and locker in one unit the best, especially in a rear application. In the Front a locker is just fine..

I'm disappointed You didn't see my YJ build before you responded....I feel a little insulted. It's not a serious rock crawler but it has a currie hi-pinion 9 and chromoly axles front and rear, to me that was realistic and for a trail vehicle rolling on 33's with no plans to go any larger. It has 2K or more in just lights, I like to see at night 360 degrees when offroad in darkness. The dealer I got most of those parts through loved that build...and loved recommendations..

I haven't even driven this xj yet, not once and neither has the wife, she likes the xj better than any of the new SUV's so we are building her a solid, well rounded one as her weekender... If we didn't get this it was a Manx dune buggy or a VW thing...and I am thankful we got the xj.

So toss me some ideas..shoot me a pm.

Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
Although I generally love recommending alloy shafts....especially if you buy from me ...but let's be realistic, you aren't building a hardcore rock crawling rig. Save your alloy money for something more beneficial.
Old 08-27-2014, 01:05 AM
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What's the carrier break? 3.73? I can't remember. I also can't justify the cost of an ARB without at least 4.10's. do yourself a huge favor an go with an ARB that can take 4.10's or 4.56. Just for shear resale value alone.. I could see a 3.55 ARB being worth about as much as a paper weight in the used item resale market

I'm pretty sure the break is 3.73. If its not, never mind
Old 08-27-2014, 01:53 AM
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Arb 3:54 down rd 102 and 3:55 up rd 101

Resale of the vehicle or the unit? For what the vehicle would be used for as listed above, you would regear front and rear in order to add an arb to the front for resale value alone? 4:10's or 4:56's with 235 tires.....for the wife's vehicle..il it wouldn't be purchased for resale value I mind but usability in mind....maintain current highway gas mileage etc...but capable of being used in the backwoods going through the snow to a cabin, muddy road, some light trail use. More of a glad she had it if needed not a I'm going out every weekend on trails so tough I need lockers.

Originally Posted by Atmos
What's the carrier break? 3.73? I can't remember. I also can't justify the cost of an ARB without at least 4.10's. do yourself a huge favor an go with an ARB that can take 4.10's or 4.56. Just for shear resale value alone.. I could see a 3.55 ARB being worth about as much as a paper weight in the used item resale market

I'm pretty sure the break is 3.73. If its not, never mind

Last edited by Jrozar; 08-27-2014 at 01:58 AM.
Old 08-27-2014, 02:19 AM
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sounds like Detroit tru tracs would be perfect for you. and I meant individual resale value. sorry, I never really think about selling a vehicle as a whole lol
Old 08-27-2014, 06:47 AM
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If you really want air lockers, checkout the Yukon Zip lockers for the 30. You'll save a couple hundred dollars. I've got the Yukon in my 30 & an ARB in my 8.25. The air compressor isn't hard to install and if you upgrade from the basic locker compressor you will be able to have OBA if you buy a few other parts.
Old 08-27-2014, 07:16 AM
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3.73 and up has a different carrier than the 3.55's IMHO a real waste also for stock gear carrier. In fact a Lunch Box Locker would fill the bill and be a lot cheaper to boot for a complete stock app. In a mostly DD I would not want to hassle with the added on air for a set of air lockers.

JMHO.
Old 08-27-2014, 08:15 AM
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I was considering doing the rear first with a tru track but...

The arb locker I'm looking at for the 3:55's was used for about a year, pulled out and been sitting for several years. It is in the for sale section. What would you think is a fare offer on it? Take a look and let me know what you think.
Old 08-27-2014, 11:07 AM
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If it's been sitting that long you will also want to buy all new o-rings and Inner plunger seal for it before installing it. So keep that extra cost in mind when making an offer.

Max
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My buddy just had an ARB installed and the shop put the compressor completely inside the "line" of the rear-right plastic cover in the trunk area. They had to cut away the plastic but it was completely inside the rear fender from the inside. I was surprised it fit in there. I hope that makes sense. Anyway, super clean install.
Old 08-27-2014, 07:10 PM
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Can you get a pic of that?

Originally Posted by McCaffrey
My buddy just had an ARB installed and the shop put the compressor completely inside the "line" of the rear-right plastic cover in the trunk area. They had to cut away the plastic but it was completely inside the rear fender from the inside. I was surprised it fit in there. I hope that makes sense. Anyway, super clean install.
Old 08-28-2014, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
My buddy just had an ARB installed and the shop put the compressor completely inside the "line" of the rear-right plastic cover in the trunk area. They had to cut away the plastic but it was completely inside the rear fender from the inside. I was surprised it fit in there. I hope that makes sense. Anyway, super clean install.
That's a good use of wasted space. I put mine under the back seat. The compressor gets worm if ran for a long period of time, but to run lockers it is only on for a couple seconds. I may put a small fan back there for extra cooling.



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