Ianf406

How? Having a radius with only 3 links puts a ton of pressure on that lone upper joint with it's stock bushing/bolt. Granted it never failed on me but did quickly wear, loosen and rattle.

I'm not too worried about them hanging low. I rarely pick a line that puts a 3' rock that close to the guts of my Jeep. They are super stout and would definitely take a hit. Im more worried about them hitting the Unibody.

Ianf406

I have not ran it down the highway yet. Im waiting to get the CAB Fab steering to replace my currie system and then an alignment first. BUT it does clank much less on potholes etc. Pretty quiet in there so far!

Atmos

that 4th link on your new kit is not doing anything except adding that same pressure to the other side, maybe spreading load at best. it's barely different than the IRO kit in that aspect. so just hearing you say that you didn't want to go to a true 3 link because you're looking forward to having a 4th link made me laugh a bit

Ianf406

I don't know- Even if you put on a true 3 link, there is still room for the caster to fluctuate as the axle moves from variations in the road. Why do you suppose every automobile manufacturer has 4 links when going with 3 would save them money? Why are true 4links more common place in 4x4 vehichles used in high speed races? Even factory radius setups (ford etc.) connect at 4 points. Offroad is another story completely but I usually drive along ways to get there.

Not to mention the fact that 3links will pull pretty bad under heavy breaking.

LACK

Not trying to stir the pot, but that kit is not a 4 link. Its a radius arm kit, there is 2 points of attachment to the cross member and the other arms are a branch off the lower control arms.

A 4 link will have their own attachment points, usually on the cross member.


But hey, if youre happy with it, that is all that matters.

Ianf406

I am aware of that and said as much. My point is that having 4 points of attachment on the axle has to be better at holding the axle straight/sturdy as well as evening out the load under braking. It also has to increase the longevity of the bushings/joints etc.

Off topic though haha. Ill report back after I run it up the ramp to see if the arms hitting the unibody is an issue or not!

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Atmos

it's perfectly fine for caster to fluctuate slightly on the road, this would allow your steering to stay the same if you hit a bump. With your radius arm kit, it does not. is this minute difference noticeable? no, and both designs are perfectly acceptable. most vehicles from the factory run weak stamped steel and bushings, not 0.25 wall and heims so of course you're going to want a 4th link in place. true double triangulated 4 links are popular because they don't require a track bar, and these customized vehicles actually have the room underneath them to fit it.


your radius arm kit does not connect at 4 points, it only connect at the frame in 2 places. it is not as good as a 3 link. and a halfway decent 3 link will not pull under braking

Atmos

not necessarily true. your track bar keeps the axle from moving side to side, your upper 3 link will stop the axle from rolling forward/back just the same as a radius arm except it will allow for some caster change depending on how you set your arm lengths. I'll wager your bushings will wear out faster than a 3 link due to the fact that radius arms bind when flexed out.


I'm not a radius arm hater by any means, I really enjoyed mine. But the 3 link is leaps and bounds better when it comes to ride quality and offroad capability