Core 4x4 adjustable top arm review
Well guys, I have had my Core 4x4 tier 1 adjustable arms for about 6 months now. I decided to get the cheapest since I will be going long arm in the future. I have been on many trail rides with them so far. The thing I dont like about them is the coarse thread they use for the adjuster. It is too coarse. When cruising around town or dirt roads, I have no issues. When I get to really flex it, the nut on the adjuster comes loose. No matter how tight you get it, it keeps coming loose. I think I might just weld them together since they are set to the length I need. Problem solved. Overall I like them. They are a good budget arm. Just keep an eye on that nut coming loose. If anyone else has a long term review, I would love to hear it.
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I wouldn't do that, if you ever need to adjust for any reason, you're just making more work for yourself.
Have you done red loctite? Silly question, but thought I'd ask... |
and if locktite don't work, lockwire will.
drill the nut, & weld a tiny loop onto the arm, then wire them together. |
Yes I have tried red and blue. They still come loose. I use an 18" long wrench to tighten them as well.
Trcm - didnt think about that. Might be worth trying. Roni - I have GC LP axle up front so I have double the adjustability on the lower arms over a normal XJ axle. It does help but only to a certain point. |
In that case, weld it...then upgrade to LA's if something else goes wrong...but a word of advice, warn the wife now, haha:popcorn:
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Yeah, same with my Rubicon Express ones. Red loctite keeps the nuts in place for 6 months or so, but they always back off.
I was going to try to use another nut to "jam" the nut so it stops backing off but no clue if that will actually solve the issue. I do have enough threads to accomplish that though |
Originally Posted by roninofako
(Post 3414898)
In that case, weld it...then upgrade to LA's if something else goes wrong...but a word of advice, warn the wife now, haha:popcorn:
Originally Posted by investinwaffles
(Post 3414933)
Yeah, same with my Rubicon Express ones. Red loctite keeps the nuts in place for 6 months or so, but they always back off.
I was going to try to use another nut to "jam" the nut so it stops backing off but no clue if that will actually solve the issue. I do have enough threads to accomplish that though |
Might be a stupid question but what is the actual problem with the jamb nut loosening up, if anything wouldn't that just allow the arm to rotate more? It's not like the arm will lengthen much since it is still constrained between the other fixed end and the axle side UCA bushing. Similar to how the JKS J-axis arms work, http://jksmfg.com/i-9056841-j-axis-a...1997-2006.html. Assuming the thread has tight enough tolerance with what it's threaded into so not to wiggle and wear down the threads, I could see why this would be bad on an application like a track bar but it seems like it would'nt be unreasonable on UCAs. That being said I'm still going to use jamb nuts.
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Originally Posted by kyle96xj
(Post 3415081)
Might be a stupid question but what is the actual problem with the jamb nut loosening up, if anything wouldn't that just allow the arm to rotate more? It's not like the arm will lengthen much since it is still constrained between the other fixed end and the axle side UCA bushing. Similar to how the JKS J-axis arms work, http://jksmfg.com/i-9056841-j-axis-a...1997-2006.html. Assuming the thread has tight enough tolerance with what it's threaded into so not to wiggle and wear down the threads, I could see why this would be bad on an application like a track bar but it seems like it would'nt be unreasonable on UCAs. That being said I'm still going to use jamb nuts.
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How about drilling a small hole through the nut and threaded shaft for a cotter pin, like a ball joint or TRE?
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Originally Posted by bad_idea
(Post 3415398)
How about drilling a small hole through the nut and threaded shaft for a cotter pin, like a ball joint or TRE?
If you are gonna do that, may be better to drill thru the nut and into the threads on 1 side of the nut, tap the hole in the nut, and use a set screw. Then whenever the nut location has to move, drill sightly into the threads, and re-use the setscrew, no new hole to drill thru the shaft. |
Originally Posted by 5-Speed
(Post 3415107)
That is exactly the problem. It is a very loose fit. When the nut comes loose, they start clunking cause of how much play they have. I am sure it would end up eating all the threads over time if I ran no nut.
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I tightened them today, went for a quick trail ride, and they are loose again. Time to weld.
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