cruiser54

It's not that hot in Hawaii that you should need any more than properly functioning stock components.

4WD4EVER

Agreed. Having lived in hot, humid Texas and hot, dry Az I have never needed anything more and I've had zero problems w/ operating temps under a variety of running conditions.

2drx4

The thermostat is probably not quite seating when it closes.

I'd pull it out and function test it on the stove... It's also possible the water pump has enough jam it's pushing it open, rare, but it does happen in some applications. IMHO high flow water pumps with high pressure side thermostats are a terrible idea, as they tend to cause all sorts of temperature regulating problems.

cruiser54

Reality is coming alive!!!!!

2drx4

Many people take things that aren't broken and fix them until they are... I think OP might have done just that.

cruiser54

Quite possible.

studmuffin

The radiator is a nice upgrade. High flow water pump is not necessary imo try to keep everything flowing as it was designed to. The HD clutch pulls more air but that never hurts the cooling system. If you are constantly running at slow speeds I would wire up a switch to the aux fan that way you can keep cool before the computer does it for you at 220-230 I think it is. Also consider adding an aftermarket water temp gauge for added insurance. I haven' had very good luck with the oem sensors giving me accurate temp readings. I actually blew a headgasket with the temp gauge reading 210 once. Wasn' till I saw the engine smoke coming out of the hood did I realize I had overheated.

rdlkoloa13@gmail.com

Well. It seemed like a good idea but from all the replys, not a popular choice. I drove it yesterday for about 2 hours and it ran low temp and and the temp would climb a little in bumper to bumper traffic. Put it in low, low in the mud to pull out a golf cart and it flew up to 215 and the electric fan wouldn't come on. So, I think it's safe to say that a high flow pump is a pile of s@$# and there is some kind of inaccurate temp reading so the fan didn't come on.
I I had less problems with rusty muddy slop in the system with stock parts.

rdlkoloa13@gmail.com

Well. It seemed like a good idea but from all the replys, not a popular choice. I drove it yesterday for about 2 hours and it ran low temp and and the temp would climb a little in bumper to bumper traffic. Put it in low, low in the mud to pull out a golf cart and it flew up to 215 and the electric fan wouldn't come on. So, I think it's safe to say that a high flow pump is a pile of s@$# and there is some kind of inaccurate temp reading so the fan didn't come on.
I I had less problems with rusty muddy slop in the system with stock parts.

cruiser54

I'm not surprised at the outcome.

rdlkoloa13@gmail.com

Well that's inspiring and thoughtful of you. I don't clame to be a highly informed jeep machanic and obviously made a mistake in thinking this would be a good upgrade. I guess I just fell into a bunch of b.s. information before I made the decision to do it. But, I'm sure I'll make less mistakes as the project continues thru trial and error.

tech

If I remember wright a high flow water pump will only flow more at 2500 rpm and higher . I think the electric fan comes on at 225 or so if you want to keep it cooler you need to put in a switch to turn on the electric fan .

cruiser54

Yep. I'm sorry I didn't nip that BS in the bud earlier.

2drx4

Don't be discouraged . The Jeep/XJ aftermarket is big bucks, so there's a TON of stuff out there that is being pushed by various manufacturers and a lot of it isn't worth the cardboard box it comes in. Unfortunately a lot of people buy into this BS, and there's certain websites/clubs that will push various aftermarket parts because they have a vested interest (they receive kickbacks or advertising revenue). So you have to wade through the crap and decide if a modification or aftermarket part really makes sense.

Also, a general piece of advice when modifying a vehicle is to do one thing at a time and determine what effects it has on the vehicle. I'm guilty of breaking this advice all the time, but it makes it very hard to determine exactly what might have caused negative results otherwise. In this case it may well be just that the thermostat you bought is NFG, it happens, they're actually something of a complicated piece to make, and as I said I'd suggest function testing it on the stove OR just go buy an OEM one or even the non-jobber Stant (Stant has two lines, nothing on the box will tell you which is which, but the jobber ones suck while the more expensive ones aren't bad) and try it again.

Edit, that said, I still don't believe a high flow pump will do you any good. You could try tuning it with a restrictor if changing the T-stat doesn't help, but honestly if it comes to that you're much better getting a stock style pump since that's a lot of farting around and the pump will never live as long.

rdlkoloa13@gmail.com

Ok, thanks for the advice. I'll check the thermostat and ask more questions in the future before making a decision on throwing money at usless aftermarket crap. I'm sure I'm not the first person to find out the hard way that this is not the way to go. But here's a question; being high flow meaning ( constant) the pressure from the pump opens the termastat to a certain amount allowing constant flow and only opens up all the way when reaching 195? Other wise how could my running temp be so low and climb gradually when left to idle.