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Considering JB welding a shock bold in place

Old 11-22-2014, 10:15 PM
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2000 sport 4.0 auto 4x4. Just installed my trail master 3" kit today and I'm running into a problem with a shock bolt staying in place. One on the drivers side rear bolts on the top side of the shock keeps falling out while driving and I can hear the shock slapping against the frame on every bump. I tried reusing the same hardware since this kit didn't come with new hardware for the shocks. The bolts were rounded out on the treads when I took them out. On both sides. So I found some 3/8" bolts the same size to replace them. The thread count was different but they still threaded in nicely and held nicely. Except for the one. I think the threads themselves in the frame are messed up and I can get the bolt to stay but as soon as I drive it comes out on the first bump. I don't have anything to retap the hole either. So now I'm considering JB welding it in place to say the hell with it. What would you guys do?

Last edited by Jooman07; 11-22-2014 at 10:30 PM.
Old 11-22-2014, 10:43 PM
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Try a slightly bigger bolt? Kind of like forcing a new thread tap
Old 11-22-2014, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by crabmushrooms5
Try a slightly bigger bolt? Kind of like forcing a new thread tap
I was thinking of doing that also. I looked at the threads and they are pretty much gone on the inside. I'm just afraid if I thread a bigger bolt it'll maybe crack the mounting point or something else stupid will happen
Old 11-22-2014, 11:09 PM
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IIRC the rear upper shock mount bolts are metric - M8 I believe. If you got a 3/8nc bolt into there then the threads are at best, cross-threaded and at worst, stripped.

If you JB Weld the bolt in you're going to have a hell of a time getting the bolt out in the event that you need to replace your shock. The best advice I can give you would be to fix the issue properly now rather than compounding the issue.
Old 11-22-2014, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jooman07
I was thinking of doing that also. I looked at the threads and they are pretty much gone on the inside. I'm just afraid if I thread a bigger bolt it'll maybe crack the mounting point or something else stupid will happen
I bought a cheap tap die setup at advance for around 20 I think. The everything in that kit will break except the drill head and new threads. Then just find a slightly bigger bolt and bam.

I broke down and bought a Kobalt tap and die set from Lowes later that week for under 100.
Old 11-22-2014, 11:23 PM
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Is rather fix it right of course, I'm just stuck right now with a jeep with no drivers rear shock. If I can track down a tap and die set I will give that a go.

The bolts I took out must not be the original ones either cause the drivers side was like a double head and the passengers was just a normal bolt. Both had the threads pretty much stripped off when I took them out.
Old 11-22-2014, 11:25 PM
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Considering JB welding a shock bold in place-image-2995157893.jpg

This is what it looks like as of now.
Old 11-22-2014, 11:43 PM
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I drove mine like 5 miles with one bolt on Tight while the shock was loose. Just slow and easy and cautiously.

Hell I drove it up to the shop with one leaf eye bolt loose and one stuck before. Then they raped me but anyway

Those bolts are known to rust in and snap off.

Last edited by crabmushrooms5; 11-22-2014 at 11:45 PM.
Old 11-22-2014, 11:50 PM
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Get one in there bolt in tight then jam a price of wood up in the and break it off as a placeholder till I could get somewhere where I wouldn't get towed?
Old 11-23-2014, 12:42 AM
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Knock the nut out with a BFH/punch or an air hammer and replace it with new hardware. There are a bunch of threads on this if you search. It's a PIA job, but once it's done you won't have to worry about it again.
Old 11-23-2014, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by LAF1269
Knock the nut out with a BFH/punch or an air hammer and replace it with new hardware. There are a bunch of threads on this if you search. It's a PIA job, but once it's done you won't have to worry about it again.
I tried using a small air hammer when I did this and when I switched to a 2 lb hammer and large punch they came right out. I'd just skip the air hammer entirely unless you have a big Snap On gun.

OP, I broke all four bolts when changing the rear shocks on my buddy's jeep we just lifted, I just stuck a 3/8 by 1" bolt on an extendable magnet (the kind you use to pick up tools you drop) and they went in with a minimum of swearing. Bet I got all four new bolts in in fifteen or 20 minutes. Then you just take your time getting the shocks on them so you don't push the bolts back into the unibody, and put a nut and lock washer on the bottom.

I felt a lot better having strong new bolts in there than those pathetically weak rusty Chrysler bolts.
Old 11-23-2014, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Buickman455
I tried using a small air hammer when I did this and when I switched to a 2 lb hammer and large punch they came right out. I'd just skip the air hammer entirely unless you have a big Snap On gun. OP, I broke all four bolts when changing the rear shocks on my buddy's jeep we just lifted, I just stuck a 3/8 by 1" bolt on an extendable magnet (the kind you use to pick up tools you drop) and they went in with a minimum of swearing. Bet I got all four new bolts in in fifteen or 20 minutes. Then you just take your time getting the shocks on them so you don't push the bolts back into the unibody, and put a nut and lock washer on the bottom. I felt a lot better having strong new bolts in there than those pathetically weak rusty Chrysler bolts.
I ended up having to put a 7/16" bolt in it to get it to hold. The 3/8" bolt I had in it would just fall right out cause all the treads were gone. I got the slightly bigger bolt started then when I couldn't use my hands or ratchet I used my small impact in short bursts to get it to thread
all the way.
Old 11-23-2014, 09:00 AM
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All four of mine broke when I replaced them a couple weeks ago. I just removed all of the old hardware and welded hex bolts to the unibody (with the threads pointed towards the shock) and tightened the shocks to the bolts with a lock washer and hex nut.
Old 11-23-2014, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jooman07
I ended up having to put a 7/16" bolt in it to get it to hold. The 3/8" bolt I had in it would just fall right out cause all the treads were gone. I got the slightly bigger bolt started then when I couldn't use my hands or ratchet I used my small impact in short bursts to get it to thread
all the way.
Haha what I mean is the head of the bolt is up in the unibody and you're using the bolt as a stud.

Those factory threads, and bolts are a joke.
Old 11-23-2014, 11:59 AM
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You should have searched here then you would have found detailed instructions on the removal and replacement of those bolts along with your shocks. Its not to late yet just look it up before you really screw it up a simple, fairly quick job.

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