88 Ex Jay

I like the idea, and have thought about it to, everyone thinks about turbos for high rpm screaming, but think about diesels. Turbos when matched correctly build tons of torque down low, perfect for a jeep! ,of course you could always do this to......

Photojared

So you're talking about a rear mounted turbo. I probably wouldn't suggest it on a Jeep. Rear mounts have a VERY high amount of lag. I doubt you'd be able to get it to spool before redline, maybe 1000 RPMs befre. You want a turbo and manifold that will spool very quickly at low RPMs. They generally don't flow great, but a log manifold will spool quickly.

nopi

Im currently doing it im running a 7mgte turbo but im not using a custom manifold im using stock mani with a j pipe but detail im looking for torque not power.

hankthetank

Pics or you're lying.

VTJeep

I've been subscribed just waiting to see some proof of all these turbo doings... I'd really like to see some bluff calling, i.e. PICS!

nopi

Ok ill take pics and post them soon mean while look up in youtube la jeanbook ......american made puertorican built..

TEXAS_XJ_DUDE

heres a link to my jeep build. its not turbo (yet). haha. but ive still done quite a few performance upgrades. all about 2WD sleepers

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/je...ie-too-137813/

alnielsen

I was considering a STS turbo on my RX8 a few years back. Others, that have made a rear turbo, with that car, had the most problem with the oil feed and return. Also, I don't remember if there is any free space, in the rear, for a turbo. If the turbo is properly sized, not too large, lag shouldn't be much of a problem. STS will help you get the proper size turbo.

TEXAS_XJ_DUDE

anyone know if that 2jz guy has a thread... link???

DeftwillP

He's in Austin Texas baby.

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1033211

VTJeep

I love that XJ. insanity.

child9

Thanks you guys, glad you like my Jeep, ha. I am not an expert on forced induction systems by any stretch of the imagination...in fact the 2JZ in my Jeep makes this my first turbo vehicle of any kind. That said, I don't want anyone to take this the wrong way, cause I'm NOT being a pompous *** here, I just don't see the logic behind the statement "and just run piping right into the intake not needing an intercooler due to the length of piping."

Before that setup is built, can that be rationally explained?

As I understand it:
The act of physically compressing air causes the air temp to rise a LOT. (PV=nRT or P=nRT/V which mathematically states that if P rises and n, R, and V all stay the same, T MUST also rise) This is the Ideal Gas Law.
The closer that air is to the place it was just compressed, the hotter it should be...
therefore, the shorter the distance from the turbo compressor housing to the intake plenum is, the hotter the IAT is going to be.
The hotter it is, the more the timing will have to be retarded in order to prevent detonation, hurting power.
The hotter it is, the less actual air you have at any given boost level.
The less air you have, the less fuel will be introduced.
Less air and less fuel = less power.


Best case scenario I foresee with choosing to not use an IC is that the system is going to overall be inefficient (the OP specifically asked for help with an EFFICIENT system), break turbos faster (due to excessive EGTs), and be prone to general weirdness and unreliability.
Worst case scenario is a piston through the oil pan.

I'm not even saying don't do it, I just don't want to see you making decisions on false or misunderstood information. I also want to make sure you know what you are getting into by building a turbo system that has nothing in place to cool the charge air. From my experience and moreso the experience of those I used to be around every day...an intercooler is not considered an optional part of a turbo system.

Note that the above refers to gasoline systems, not diesel. From the Banks Power website: "While turbocharging has been applied to both gasoline and diesel engines, only limited boost can be added to a gasoline engine before the fuel octane level again becomes a problem. (Engine knock, i.e. pre-detonation, which is what likes to push pistons through oil pans.) With a diesel, boost pressure is essentially unlimited. It is literally possible to run as much boost as the engine will physically stand before breaking apart."

There is a lot of misinformation out there. (Don't even get me started on octane and what that actually means :P). Check your sources and make informed decisions.
Hope this helps, and if I am mistaken on any points please correct me.

If you need any custom fabricated components or anything, let me know. There can never be too many turbo jeeps on the planet, imho.

ColoradoCorey

there are other factors like, compression ratio. What is the ratio on a 4.0? 8.8:1 I believe. The way I understand a turbo is the lower the CR the more boost you can put on it. As well as lower CR as well as boost the lower the octane fuel needed run. Take for example the 4G63T which runs about 7.5:1 with about 25 pounds (tops) of boost that can run on 91-93 octane with no problem. Or the Chrysler lebaron that ran a 2.2L and a small turbo that delivered about 12 pounds of boost on a motor that had an 8.5:1 CR. The Lebaron could easily run 85 w/o any detonation issues. Im sure there are turbos kits you can get out there for around the price you are shooting for, you just need to be aware that other issue may arrise putting that kind of pressure on your manifold and heads.

With the money you plan on spending there, have you looked at a stroker? I have never seen one before but have heard of people with them and smoking all 4 tires. I personally prefer NA motors. I know you can get a long block stroker from Quadratech for about $3700 shipped to your door and add a PCM flash for about 3-400 and have a BAD A?? machine.

ol"blue

While having an intercooler is preferred, with the correct timing, fuel, and boost controls, there's no problem driving a boosted car without one.
There were untold thousand of Chrysler/Dodge 2.2/2.5's sold equipped with turbos that weren't intercooled, as well as many that were intercooled. Mainly the auto equipped ones were non intercooled models wa small mitsu turbo, the manual trans ones had the garretts. The higher HP models also were intercooled, and had special computer tuning to add more fuel & higher boost levels.
I had a bunch of stock turbo Omni's and a couple built for higher HP that were no longer fun to drive, so I sold them. But even stock non intercooled they made dependable power.

partsguyct

An intercooler is not necessary if you want to do a lot of mods to accommodate for fuel with hot air...the point of cooling the boost is that colder air is more dense meaning you can run more boost with less fuel creating more power with lower levels, I had an older eagle talon running 9.5:1 compression with a 16g turbo set to 10psi and it ran fine on 91 octane, if you do turbo on the 4.0 I'd suggest a small intercooler at least even if its just a side mount style it will help