Carb conversion
#1
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Year: 1998
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Carb conversion
Before everyone starts raising hell and calling me a special kind of stupid for wanting to ditch fuel injection i'm gonna get that out of the way first. Yes I know that fuel injection gets a lot better fuel efficiency and switching to a carb is down grade. I have my own reasons for switching. I just wanted some pointers from people on here that know about the swap so I can do this as simply and cheap as possible. So from reading online i've seen that i'll need a carb. A custom plate to connect the carb to my 98 intake manifold. I've read you can use a chevy HEI I6 ignition setup. And i'll need a low pressure fuel pump which I should be able to get from napa. Does this sound like all I would need to do this swap? So it's as simple as pulling out all of my old wiring harness and wiring the ignition setup and fuel pump in?
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Lots of people dig carburetors because they're cheaper and don't require bunch of electric injectors that can go bad quicker.
But OP, you're going to need a special kinda rig for this stuff. I've never seen someone actually go through with it. You'll need a special custom manifold that plugs up those injector holes.
But OP, you're going to need a special kinda rig for this stuff. I've never seen someone actually go through with it. You'll need a special custom manifold that plugs up those injector holes.
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Because I have a 4.6L stroker that has been to a seperate mechanic and the Dealership and no matter what they do it just runs terrible. They've tried advancing and retarding the timing by adjusting the distributor. They have double and triple checked the base timing. Done a compression test, it has perfect compression. Checked fuel pressure. Checked the injectors. I can't think of anything else to try that they haven't checked.
#5
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Because I have a 4.6L stroker that has been to a seperate mechanic and the Dealership and no matter what they do it just runs terrible. They've tried advancing and retarding the timing by adjusting the distributor. They have double and triple checked the base timing. Done a compression test, it has perfect compression. Checked fuel pressure. Checked the injectors. I can't think of anything else to try that they haven't checked.
I'm no expert but I feel like going through with this swap would be more expensive and more of a hassle than getting to the root cause of your issue. It might not even fix it, and if it did it could have a negative effect on performance.
Maybe some guru's here can help get to the bottom of the issue, or if you can't find help here check out jeepstrokers.com
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#8
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Bored 30 Over
4.2 Crank
4.2 Connecting rods
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
.020 King main bearings
.010 King Connecting Rod Bearings
.030 Silvolite Pistons
.030 Hastings Piston Rings
King Cam Bearings
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Engine Pro Timing Chain set
Fresh Head with new valves and valve springs
All new gaskets (No oil Leaks).
Venom 25 LB fuel injectors
Gibson Stainless steel ceramic coated header
Just passed smog through the state referee, runs great. What injectors are you running?
#9
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Year: 1999
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http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/en...ing-true-lies/
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Year: 1990
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#13
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I've got a Scat 258 crank 30 over Keith black pistons stock rods. I'm running a stock replacement melling camshaft so nothing too wild. The injectors are refurbished dodge neon injectors running 24# at 49 psi. Everything else internally is a stock replacement. I have a build thread on jeepstrokers and i've got some guys helping me I just wanted to see what kind of responses I would get from the community here. FlyinRyan one of the best stroker tuners around even told me that their has to be another issue somewhere. But seeing as my mechanic and the dealership haven't been able to figure it out so far i've been looking at other things I can do to at least get it running well enough to where i can finally start daily driving this thing.
Last edited by Hayden98XJ; 06-26-2015 at 04:11 PM.
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Well from what the guys at the shop say is that it idles just fine until you get up to around 2500 rpm then the engine just falls flat and runs really rough then almost wants to shut off. I wish I could better explain it but since it's been at the dealership I haven't been able to hear it run to get a better idea.