Canning the stock AM/FM Cassette Stereo in a 2K XJ...
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Canning the stock AM/FM Cassette Stereo in a 2K XJ...
I am probably going to take the XJ to a local car stereo place because, hey, if they tear something up, then they will fix it. Is there any potential pitfalls to replacing the not-functioning-well-and-basically-dinosaur'd AM/FM Cassette Stereo? What I want to do is get a nice Kenwood and matching speakers just for the doors, I don't want these people in the headliner because the headliner is something else in this thing entirely... Any suggestions? I'm not interested in the Kenwood DVD/DC route, I just wanted about 50W per channel banging in the doors and AM/FM/MP3 off of a flash drive via USB Port and I will be more than happy.
On another note, so I don't start another thread and clutter up the place, the indentation in the passenger side of the cargo area, was that for a first aid kit originally? There is nothing there but two screws and I am guessing by the space between them that this was a first aid kit...
Thanks in advance.
D
On another note, so I don't start another thread and clutter up the place, the indentation in the passenger side of the cargo area, was that for a first aid kit originally? There is nothing there but two screws and I am guessing by the space between them that this was a first aid kit...
Thanks in advance.
D
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This is really too easy to take to a stereo shop. I bought a Sony from Crutchfield. It came with complete instructions and an install kit. The speakers in the headliner were very easy to replace. On mine, you just grab the grate and pull a little and then unscrew the speakers. As long as you stick with 5", it is a bolt in.
As another approach, you can go to Walmart and pick up pretty much the same stuff. Instructions are all over the place.
As another approach, you can go to Walmart and pick up pretty much the same stuff. Instructions are all over the place.
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I just installed this Pioneer in mine tonight. Took about 30 minutes, including spicing the harness adapter to the stereo harness. It was $99 shipped with wiring harness adapter and face plate adapter included. No CD player; just a receiver and digital media via bluetooth, USB, or aux input.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ers/MVH-X360BT
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ers/MVH-X360BT
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I wouldn't bet on that one, some stereo places are good and some aren't. The PO (previous owner) of my XJ had a stereo, speakers and sub installed by "professionals" (I found the receipt in the glove box, he removed the sub but left the wiring) and those morons ran the power cable for the sub through the firewall without a grommet which is both a potential fire-hazard (it was 4ga. cable tied directly to the + battery post) if the insulation chafed and it let moisture in that caused rust in the front passenger floor-pan (luckily I caught this before it got too bad, good thing I thought to pull the carpet though). They also spliced wires with tape (not even crimps or butt-splices) and the bracket for the head unit fit poorly and moved around, and the PO paid close to $200 for this crappy work (not including the cost of the equipment).
Is there any potential pitfalls to replacing the not-functioning-well-and-basically-dinosaur'd AM/FM Cassette Stereo? What I want to do is get a nice Kenwood and matching speakers just for the doors, I don't want these people in the headliner because the headliner is something else in this thing entirely... Any suggestions? I'm not interested in the Kenwood DVD/DC route, I just wanted about 50W per channel banging in the doors and AM/FM/MP3 off of a flash drive via USB Port and I will be more than happy.
I'd guess the vast majority of XJs (and most other 13+ year old vehicles on the road) have aftermarket head-units and there is no real disadvantage as long as you get a good one and it is installed properly (unless you like the stock look). I've got a Pioneer DEH-2400UB (this model is a couple years old, the DEH-X2600UI is the current equivalent) which I like, was priced right ($90), and sounds like it would fit your requirements. Kenwood/JVC (they're the same company now, Kenwood bought JVC from Matsu****a a few years ago) and Panasonic are also good options for the money.
I would highly recommend ordering from Crutchfield, they will give you step by step installation instructions for free and free or discounted installation gear (harness and dash kit) depending on the price of the head-unit you order. Personally I would never pay someone to install a stereo in an XJ, it is an easy job, and most places will overcharge and may do sub-par work.
On another note, so I don't start another thread and clutter up the place, the indentation in the passenger side of the cargo area, was that for a first aid kit originally? There is nothing there but two screws and I am guessing by the space between them that this was a first aid kit...
Last edited by dmill89; 03-30-2014 at 11:01 PM.
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I like that Pioneer because it has a detachable face. I can take the face off and put it in a carrier and chunk that in a Maxpedition Bag when I go to work or go in the house, etc.
How many watts a channel is that?
And...
My headliner is sagging a bit right at the driver's side and back where the speakers are above the cargo area and I don't want to make it any worse. And having to take that thing down, strip the headliner cloth and get new headliner cloth and glue that in place, then remount the entire thing, etc,. etc., etc., is going to end up being more than I want to do at the moment just to get some loud tunes.
I have an apartment, if I had a home, a lot more could be done. One step at a time.
I really wish it didn't have a headliner like that at all. I had an Olds Cutlass back about 11-12 years ago that had a sagging headliner, much worse than this XJ, too.
How many watts a channel is that?
And...
I have an apartment, if I had a home, a lot more could be done. One step at a time.
I really wish it didn't have a headliner like that at all. I had an Olds Cutlass back about 11-12 years ago that had a sagging headliner, much worse than this XJ, too.
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I would highly recommend ordering from Crutchfield, they will give you step by step installation instructions for free and free or discounted installation gear (harness and dash kit) depending on the price of the head-unit you order.
Personally I would never pay someone to install a stereo in an XJ, it is an easy job, and most places will overcharge and may do sub-par work.
I'm not aware of a factory first-aid kit for the XJ, they may exist but they are definitely not a common option. The cut-out is basically just a storage area, people use it for all kinds of stuff, the screws were probably put there by the PO, they could have been a first-aid kit or perhaps a flash-light mount, fire-extinguisher, storage box, etc.
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I would highly recommend ordering from Crutchfield, they will give you step by step installation instructions for free and free or discounted installation gear (harness and dash kit) depending on the price of the head-unit you order.
All the wiring harnesses and the installation kit, which was free, along with UPS "free" shipping factored in, just a few bucks over $200.00 Thanks for the info about Crutchfield. If nothing else, you saved me at least $30.00 on the stereo alone. I'll try to do the work myself and if I fail, I'll buy beer for a friend and if that don't work and I get stymied, I'll take it to the local audio/alarm/tint/custom guy and try to keep my nose in the process to avoid the potential pitfalls discussed in this thread...which I do believe happened.
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While you have everything out, test the speaker wire connections to the door. My left door speaker didn't work before and after the upgrade. Turned out that I had a bad wire. Easy to replace but I had to tear it apart twice.
You can test it with a cheap HF meter or a trouble light. HF sells a little kit with a trouble light and a continuity checker, you need continuity.
If you follow the Crutchfield directions, none of the mentioned pitfalls should happen to you. Just take your time and do the beer AFTER you finish.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. I keep my Jeep music on a flash drive. Walmart sells these cute little stubby flash drives that hold 4G for $10. This way, you don't have the flash drive sticking out so far. Much better look, much less likely to get broken when slopping around off road.
You can test it with a cheap HF meter or a trouble light. HF sells a little kit with a trouble light and a continuity checker, you need continuity.
If you follow the Crutchfield directions, none of the mentioned pitfalls should happen to you. Just take your time and do the beer AFTER you finish.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. I keep my Jeep music on a flash drive. Walmart sells these cute little stubby flash drives that hold 4G for $10. This way, you don't have the flash drive sticking out so far. Much better look, much less likely to get broken when slopping around off road.
Last edited by windlover; 04-01-2014 at 10:14 AM. Reason: Add flash drive comment
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Thanks for all of the advice. I actually don't drink much at all and my Dad was more of the epic beer drinker in the family. If I wanna pound a couple down, I'll make a French Screwdriver. One Oz. of Grey Goose Vodka, One Oz. of Cointreau and fill the rest up with O.J. and you're good to go!
I read up and watched some YouTube vids* about the famous driver's side door speaker broken wire problems that seem to plague these rigs and mine seems to fit the bill for that. The balance pot on the stereo is scratchy and touchy but when everything is going well, that driver's side door speaker is DOA, period. So, it is probably a broken wire inside the "boot" link between the door and frame.
I'm totally unconcerned about the electronic, wiring and electrical aspects of this job. I was an investigator and technician for a burglar alarm company for almost nine years. I have some Locksmithing experience as well, but zero Automotive Locksmithing experience as far as tearing doors apart...so tackling door trim, window handle cranks and all the rest of it are what is really intimidating me because the thing is 14 years old, I know plastic gets fragile and brittle from cold and hot extremes and not just UV exposure, and I don't want to mess anything up. That is what I was referring to earlier.
Is the information in this video correct? Good work or no?
*
I made the Crutchfield order yesterday around 4:30 P.M. EST and the thing was delivered to the rental office at the apartment complex before 10:00 A.M. this morning, how is that for fast?
Shot by AutoZone on the way home from work today, too. Bought a Door Panel Remover Tool (special fork with a screwdriver handle) and a Window and Door Clip Remover/Installer Tool which looks like a demented Spatula.
I read up and watched some YouTube vids* about the famous driver's side door speaker broken wire problems that seem to plague these rigs and mine seems to fit the bill for that. The balance pot on the stereo is scratchy and touchy but when everything is going well, that driver's side door speaker is DOA, period. So, it is probably a broken wire inside the "boot" link between the door and frame.
I'm totally unconcerned about the electronic, wiring and electrical aspects of this job. I was an investigator and technician for a burglar alarm company for almost nine years. I have some Locksmithing experience as well, but zero Automotive Locksmithing experience as far as tearing doors apart...so tackling door trim, window handle cranks and all the rest of it are what is really intimidating me because the thing is 14 years old, I know plastic gets fragile and brittle from cold and hot extremes and not just UV exposure, and I don't want to mess anything up. That is what I was referring to earlier.
Is the information in this video correct? Good work or no?
*
I made the Crutchfield order yesterday around 4:30 P.M. EST and the thing was delivered to the rental office at the apartment complex before 10:00 A.M. this morning, how is that for fast?
Shot by AutoZone on the way home from work today, too. Bought a Door Panel Remover Tool (special fork with a screwdriver handle) and a Window and Door Clip Remover/Installer Tool which looks like a demented Spatula.
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imo, just run new speaker wires...something decent like 14ga.
i just picked up the same deck last week and finished up the install yesterday.
running a new set of speaker wires all i needed was one harness (the grey) for two wires, red and yellow (12v constant and 12v switched)...black from deck to ground and the antenna. The only speaker wires i used from the deck were white and grey (+/-), like you i have no plans of running the rears.
i just picked up the same deck last week and finished up the install yesterday.
running a new set of speaker wires all i needed was one harness (the grey) for two wires, red and yellow (12v constant and 12v switched)...black from deck to ground and the antenna. The only speaker wires i used from the deck were white and grey (+/-), like you i have no plans of running the rears.
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I have a Blaupunkt BT420 Toronto head unit with front USB, rear USB, SD Card slot (which is what I mostly use) and Bluetooth. Great sound and clean looks. $165 on Amazon.
I also have Polk db651's in the front doors, and db521's in there rear sound bar. I chose these because they sound great, and they also held up very well for about 7 years in my old TJ that was on dusty construction sites every day in 100+ degree Texas heat.
As for the rear cubby, I made use of a 400 watt Dual amp and a 6.5 Kicker subwoofer to do this:
I also have Polk db651's in the front doors, and db521's in there rear sound bar. I chose these because they sound great, and they also held up very well for about 7 years in my old TJ that was on dusty construction sites every day in 100+ degree Texas heat.
As for the rear cubby, I made use of a 400 watt Dual amp and a 6.5 Kicker subwoofer to do this:
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Do you remember what that rear storage area was for on your's? I know mine was a State-owned vehicle and there are two screws on there and the ripped plastic strip/remnant of what looks like the top of a First Aid Kit...you know how they have the keyhole screws on the Kits? I'll just get a good'un to put in there. I have survival gear and other emergency stuff to go under the rear seat, too.
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Do you remember what that rear storage area was for on your's? I know mine was a State-owned vehicle and there are two screws on there and the ripped plastic strip/remnant of what looks like the top of a First Aid Kit...you know how they have the keyhole screws on the Kits? I'll just get a good'un to put in there. I have survival gear and other emergency stuff to go under the rear seat, too.