can lift blocks be used for rear lift???
#1
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can lift blocks be used for rear lift???
This is my first xj,2000 4.0,and just want to get bigger tires on it. I have 4 children and money is an issue and a block and u bolt kit is only $33.00 at auto zone. Also wandering what the thickest coil spring spacer that is reasonable to run in the front. Appreciate any help with this and any other xj specific tricks or issues to be aware of.
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Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
welcome to the forum!
now first off blocks are not recommended at all cause they cause axle wrap (can cause axle to rip itself out from under the jeep), but if you just drive it on the steet then you could go 1.5" in the back (I would recommend lift shackles. they are just as cheap and safer) and a 2 inch spacer up front. that will allow you to run 30" tires or 31's with a bit of trimming.
you can run stock shocks and control arms with only 2 inches.
now first off blocks are not recommended at all cause they cause axle wrap (can cause axle to rip itself out from under the jeep), but if you just drive it on the steet then you could go 1.5" in the back (I would recommend lift shackles. they are just as cheap and safer) and a 2 inch spacer up front. that will allow you to run 30" tires or 31's with a bit of trimming.
you can run stock shocks and control arms with only 2 inches.
#5
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
I'd recommend getting coil spacers for the front and shackles for the rear. Theres alot of heresay about blocks by people who know a guy who's friend's uncle Tom had a major issue with them, but in all reality they work fine for around a year or so if your leafs are in OK condition. Blocks cause alot less trouble in other vehicles (full size trucks, etc.) however in our cherokees the leafs are just not strong enough to hold up to the extra leverage brought about by the blocks. I dont say this without experience, I personally have 1.5" blocks and shackles in the rear of my jeep and have run this setup for close to 2 years now. Yes my jeep is driveable and i've yet to break a leaf spring, however i can definitely tell the age the blocks have put on my leaf springs. It's took until about a year for the age to show, but the wheel hop and axle movement from the weakening of the springs is noticeable at times, especially so when taking off fast.
My overall point, if you plan on just driving this jeep on the road without it hitting the trails and you are pretty easy on the jeep (not stomping it most times when you take off) then blocks will probably be fine for you. ... Just not those autozone blocks.
They're not only hollow but also made of aluminum to boot.. big no no in my opinion.. Now the U-bolts on the other hand are ok, i have them on my jeep right now. If you're dead set on blocks get a set of solid steel blocks, or anything really thats not those autozone blocks.
Now if you plan on wheeling your jeep or really playing in it whatsoever... then i'd recommend against the blocks, you'll wear your springs in no time. It was about a year after i bought my lift and tires before i really started playing in my jeep, and the blocks were unnoticeable up until about 3 months after i started having fun in it, then they were a nuisance.
Hope that helps.
EDIT: This wasnt aimed at anybody who posted responses above, I thought i'd be the first to reply but i guess it took a while to type lol
My overall point, if you plan on just driving this jeep on the road without it hitting the trails and you are pretty easy on the jeep (not stomping it most times when you take off) then blocks will probably be fine for you. ... Just not those autozone blocks.
They're not only hollow but also made of aluminum to boot.. big no no in my opinion.. Now the U-bolts on the other hand are ok, i have them on my jeep right now. If you're dead set on blocks get a set of solid steel blocks, or anything really thats not those autozone blocks.
Now if you plan on wheeling your jeep or really playing in it whatsoever... then i'd recommend against the blocks, you'll wear your springs in no time. It was about a year after i bought my lift and tires before i really started playing in my jeep, and the blocks were unnoticeable up until about 3 months after i started having fun in it, then they were a nuisance.
Hope that helps.
EDIT: This wasnt aimed at anybody who posted responses above, I thought i'd be the first to reply but i guess it took a while to type lol
#6
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Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
I have 1/4 wall 2.5 x 2.5 HSS Tube x 4.5" blocks. Drill a 3/8 hole on one side and opposite us a 5/16 SHCS, the head will be your new locator.
Get New, High Strength U bolts with 1/2-20unf tall nuts, you can even up to 9/16 dia if the blanks stock is available, use washers under the nuts. Get them at a transport truck and trailer service center, they can often make them up for you while u wait.
The blocks can promote axle wrap issues as the geometry change provides leverage for such. The blocks are cheap. One gets what one pays for. I have good quality stock replacement springs in the application. I also use a wedge block to provide 3 degree pinion angle change. For future investment I would go to new lift spring pack and remove the blocks. Works for me at this time, again, cheap to create. You will have to revise your stock shock mounts or reshock for a longer application.
You will also have all kinds of stories tossed your way if you choose to install the blocks. You have to decide what is right for you. I have run mine very very hard on and off road. I accept them for what they are. Consider the pros and cons. Freedom of choice.
Get New, High Strength U bolts with 1/2-20unf tall nuts, you can even up to 9/16 dia if the blanks stock is available, use washers under the nuts. Get them at a transport truck and trailer service center, they can often make them up for you while u wait.
The blocks can promote axle wrap issues as the geometry change provides leverage for such. The blocks are cheap. One gets what one pays for. I have good quality stock replacement springs in the application. I also use a wedge block to provide 3 degree pinion angle change. For future investment I would go to new lift spring pack and remove the blocks. Works for me at this time, again, cheap to create. You will have to revise your stock shock mounts or reshock for a longer application.
You will also have all kinds of stories tossed your way if you choose to install the blocks. You have to decide what is right for you. I have run mine very very hard on and off road. I accept them for what they are. Consider the pros and cons. Freedom of choice.
#7
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I primarily drive on road I work in the oil and natural gas industry and some of our locations are very remote and our lease roads can be neglected. I have a set of nearly new 32's from a previous project and would like to know what it would take to put them on. I'm willing to cut sheet metal and if shackles and spacers aren't enough what would be? 4 kids equal BUDGET!!! Thanks for all the info I've already recived. This forum seems to be an endless source of info and all is
appreciated.
appreciated.
Last edited by wreck tum; 02-26-2012 at 08:48 PM.
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#13
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
This is my first xj,2000 4.0,and just want to get bigger tires on it. I have 4 children and money is an issue and a block and u bolt kit is only $33.00 at auto zone. Also wandering what the thickest coil spring spacer that is reasonable to run in the front. Appreciate any help with this and any other xj specific tricks or issues to be aware of.
#15
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors