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Bumpstop help

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Old 04-12-2011, 10:42 AM
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Default Bumpstop help

Alright I've tried to search but the search on the app isn't the same as the site an I can't get to my computer right now

I just put a 6.5 rc long arm on my 98 Cherokee. 35s an cut fenders. Finally getting all the bugs worked out an have time to look into other things.

The kit didn't come with any Bumpstop extensions an I really want to keep my fenders from being ripped off. How do I go about finding out the right amount of bumpstop I need. I was looking at my buddies tj with a long arm today an he has bumpstop extensions up top and a bumpstop on the bottom in the front. I really need alil guidance on this. I'm sure there is an exact science to getting it perfect but anything has to be better than stock correct? I'm wondering if I can leave the factory stops up top an add a 3" stop on the bottom. His literally looks like a 3" body lift block. Any help would be great thanks in advance.
Old 04-12-2011, 03:06 PM
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best method would be to flex the suspension till the tire is just shy of rubbing, measure the distance between the axle and the bump stop, that is how long the bump stop would need to be to keep the tire from rubbing. Adding the the extra bump stop to the bottom like your friend is fine, hockey pucks work well for cheap DIY bump stops.
Old 04-12-2011, 03:19 PM
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Start with about 3" and work your way up.
I'm running 4.5" of lift with bushwacker flat fenders and 32-33 tires with 3.5" of front bumpstop and no rear bumpstops.

Note I could probably clear 35's as I have about 3" clear on fenders at full stuff in the front.

Last edited by 2000'XJ; 04-12-2011 at 03:25 PM.
Old 04-12-2011, 03:42 PM
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New top ones do need to be vehicle specific, but bottom (axle side) bumpstops can be pretty generic, and you can find a lot of them. I would get some tall ones, then shave them down to whatever you end up needing.
Also, there are some products available for adjustability. On the lower tech side, I think Rusty's has some adjustables that screw up or down for the upper stop. On the higher end side, you could do some ACOS stuff.

The cheapest thing to do is buy the tall lowers and shave them to your needs
Old 04-12-2011, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dysfunctionaljd
best method would be to flex the suspension till the tire is just shy of rubbing, measure the distance between the axle and the bump stop, that is how long the bump stop would need to be to keep the tire from rubbing. Adding the the extra bump stop to the bottom like your friend is fine, hockey pucks work well for cheap DIY bump stops.
This is correct except that you should add 1 inch for compression on the bump stops.
Old 04-13-2011, 12:16 AM
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Well looks like I'll have to flex it out an measure. I haver even flexed it in the month the lift has been on. I've been trying to get all the bugs worked out.
Old 04-13-2011, 06:58 PM
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Same lift with 2" spacers-look at these on your shocks:
http://www.daystarweb.com/productdet...?productID=679
Old 04-13-2011, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by stephenfarris
Same lift with 2" spacers-look at these on your shocks:
http://www.daystarweb.com/productdet...?productID=679
Have you tried these? If so how stiff is the black ones? Can they actually be a bump stop and not a stiffer shock absorber? Im interested.
Old 04-13-2011, 07:27 PM
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Yea I'm confused cuz I understand how they work at keeping the shock from over charging but it doesn't seem like it would stop axle travel enough to replace bumpstopping the axle. I've gotta flex it this weekend an measure. But I think I'm gonna add some pucks or a body lift block to the bottom an stop it that way.
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