Bump Stops?
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Bump Stops?
Okay guys and gals, although I'd like to think I know a thing or two about modifying my jeeps I do have a question. Why do I NEED bump stops? I know I know stupid question but ive never read anything about them. I have a 3.5 RE short arm lift, 31x10.5 General Grapplers. And frankly am uneducated about their purpose, or what kind I would need... Any help is appreciated!
#2
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Year: 1992 Cherokee Sport
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They keep you tires from rubbing in the wells on a stock setup, and prevent the important things on the axle, and the axles themselves, from smashing into other important things.
I think if you have trimmed fenders they can come out, but i'd leave them in.
I think if you have trimmed fenders they can come out, but i'd leave them in.
#3
Bumpstops limit up-travel and that's a very good thing.
Considering the invest made when installing new tires, you don't want them getting cut up by the body.
And visa-verse....
Tires can tear up your fenders if you don't limit the amount of up travel.
Considering the invest made when installing new tires, you don't want them getting cut up by the body.
And visa-verse....
Tires can tear up your fenders if you don't limit the amount of up travel.
#5
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Year: 1995
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I replaced leaf springs, My stops where gone just steel bolt frame is all that was left.
have 2" lift, Every time i went over bump i could hear the back end hitting something.
Bought new one's and the bolts on one side broke off. Welded new ones on so much better.
have 2" lift, Every time i went over bump i could hear the back end hitting something.
Bought new one's and the bolts on one side broke off. Welded new ones on so much better.
#6
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Year: 1995
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http://www.rocklizardfabrications.co..._Bumpstops.htm I like this one. Should tell you all you need to know.
#7
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I have some from Daystar.They should be call "don'tstops" 'cause they have 3 hollow areas & they crush when the axle hits them.
Stupid design.
Stupid design.
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#9
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Originally Posted by Big David
I have some from Daystar.They should be call "don'tstops" 'cause they have 3 hollow areas & they crush when the axle hits them.
Stupid design.
Stupid design.
#10
Here is a good example. Everything was going great with my narrow 32's. I run without any swaybars btw. So anyways I was really in a bind (twisted up) and moved forward and the passenger side front tire caught the edge of the fender. Sucked the entire fender in! I had to pull the fender out, and still its not right. You can tell where it was pulled in if you look closely.
You want up and down travel, especially out of short arms. However there is usually quite a lot of up travel , more than you have clearance for with larger tires.
To do it right you need to completely max out (discoed) your suspension front and rear to find out exactly how much bump you will need.
Also consider this. IF you run open, if one wheel is rubbing, then with an open diff, this can cause you to lose traction and stop the wheel.
So bumping your axles keeps everything from resistance and keeps things rolling better.
Also do not just bump to the point of rubbing. Remember the bumps are rubber, they compress. So you should be on your bump stops at least an inch before you start to rub.
You want up and down travel, especially out of short arms. However there is usually quite a lot of up travel , more than you have clearance for with larger tires.
To do it right you need to completely max out (discoed) your suspension front and rear to find out exactly how much bump you will need.
Also consider this. IF you run open, if one wheel is rubbing, then with an open diff, this can cause you to lose traction and stop the wheel.
So bumping your axles keeps everything from resistance and keeps things rolling better.
Also do not just bump to the point of rubbing. Remember the bumps are rubber, they compress. So you should be on your bump stops at least an inch before you start to rub.
#11
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I lifted my XJ 3 in.& got 3 in. longer bumpstops.They were 1/4 in. from touching the axle when fully flexed so I used a 1 in. spacer to give it a little extra "stop" & they things just crush.The tires are all in the rear fenders.I don't think that is a good design.A solid bumpstop would be better.IMO.
And yes,I did measure before I ordered them.
I guess I need to order longer ones.
And yes,I did measure before I ordered them.
I guess I need to order longer ones.
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yea your going to need to compensate for the stops to flex. might should've added that in to the equation. plus if you got bigger tires. don't just add what you lost in lift. that was your mistake.
i stuffed mine till they were about 1" from the fender then measured to account for the stops compressing. i don't scrub anywhere besides control arms at full lock.
i stuffed mine till they were about 1" from the fender then measured to account for the stops compressing. i don't scrub anywhere besides control arms at full lock.
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Year: 1998
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Think about it this way- say you want one of your wheels to go over a big rock. Without bump stops your tire will get caught in the wheel well and you won't make it over the rock. With bump stops, the bump stop stops the tire before it hits the wheel well and you roll over the rock.
#14
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[QUOTE=bheath;2189051]yea your going to need to compensate for the stops to flex. might should've added to the equation. plus bigger tires. that was your mistake.
Yeap,I messed up.
[quote]i stuffed mine till they were about 1" from the fender then measured to account for the stops compressing.[quote]
I did that but didn't think the stops compressed that much.My old ones are MIA.
Yeap,I messed up.
[quote]i stuffed mine till they were about 1" from the fender then measured to account for the stops compressing.[quote]
I did that but didn't think the stops compressed that much.My old ones are MIA.
#15
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
if yours are two short compressed then put a spacer behind it to drop 'em down an inch. just use some 1x1 tube for the backs and add some hockey pucks to the front. very easy and cheap fix.