Bump steer help please!
 

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...0ecaddd894.jpg
This is before
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...34afbe394b.jpg
It feels worse then before
Ive been trying to fix this bump steer issue for a while. Steering box is new and the steering links are from cavfab. Everything is tight. In an attempt to make track and drag link parallel I dropped the drag link below the nuckle. They are very close to parallel. Pictures attached. Also put on a steering stabilizer and it didnt help much. Would it help if I maxed out the heims in opposite directions? I dont see why because the geometry doesnt change. Ugh. Please help. Thanks

Is your drag link and tie rod hitting? Still newer to this, but I havent seen the drag link mounted under the tie rod. I've seen most people mount the drag link above the pitman arm to correct the angle.

I saw it done by a few guys parked outside of a 4x4 shop. Yes they clear just fine even though it doesnt really look like it from the picture. Is it worth trying it the other way? Switch it back at the knuckle and put the drag on the top of the pitman arm.

If its working then probably not. Saw Cavfab post saying that it was able to be run underneath like how you have it. Is everything else tight like your ball joints and bearings? I just installed a cavfab and started getting bad death wobble only to discover that my balljoints and wheel bearings were gone. Your steering stab could be hiding problems like what I'm having.

I also had a death wobble issue after installing the cavfab steering. I put new ball joints in and replaced bushings on lower control arms. That took care of it. I can't feel any play in bearings. Could it just be my alignment? Just did it myself. Would a bad toe cause it? Ive heard people say that

Did you measure center to center before and after? I know mine was 52". I havent checked it since I got my alignment done professionally though.

I remember starting by measuring center to center. But then I remember a friend insisted on measuring from each side of the fire. We moved it. Shoot. I never thought about it. It might be fc'd up. The problem also got drastically worse when I put 35s on.

Sounds like your trying to get the caster back. 3 deg should do it. I use a budget angle gauge on front face of my diff housing.
Is that puppy toed in?
1/16 to 1/8" required.
For me this is more critical than achieving perfect parallel track and drag.

Didn't read every single response, so I don't know if it was mentioned, but I have cav fab steering and I have run it in numerous different orientations. The drag link should be on top of the knuckle. I ran it with drag link on top of the pitman arm with a rubicon express track bar. Worked great, no bump steer. Stick it under the pitman arm just to see what it would do and had terrible bump steer. Put an ota track bar on my jeep and moved the drag link under the pitman arm and it did pretty good, but not as good as before. Put a ZJ pitman arm on (1" drop) and it handles great at any speed with any terrain I've run across. Attachment 404285Attachment 404286 those two are with under the axle track bars. One is a IRO track bar and one is Rubicon Express. Attachment 404287 this is the best picture I have of the current set up on it.