chrisquested

I am about to build some axle for a 2001 jeep Cherokee and need to know some things.

So first off I got dana 30 axle from a 1997 jeep Cherokee and a 8.8 ford axle from a 2000 explorer.

so with the end result I am wanting to have 5.5" lift, 35/1250/R15 tires, and good flex.


So for the axles I am going to do the following

Dana 30
4:88 gears with master install kit
Lock right locker
Chromoly axle shafts

Ford 8.8
4:88 gears and master install kit
iron rock offroad swap kit with truss


I need to know if the truss from tnt will work with ironrock offroad long arms? I don't know anything about truss.


ordering this from iro to swap in the 8.8
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XDT

For the dana 30 truss I was thinking this one
http://www.tntcustoms.com/jeep_dana_...xle_truss.aspx

I am not sure what kind of steering system I should go with? I was thinking of just getting an roughcountry hd tie rod but I don't know if this will limit my flex?

Do I need a truss if I am doing with what I have listed above?

xjmarc

The truss would be nice but not necessary and you'll need all the mounts offered to make it work with pretty much any factory style lift. Might want to plan on spacers for the rear depending on what wheels you run since the 8.8 is a little narrower.

94XjSport94

Are you setting up the gears?

The TNT truss should leave the mounts in the same spots...

All this money being spent and you're going with IRO long arms? That's a shame.

SeriousOffroad

Steering:
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...-Steering-Kits

No need for a truss unless you're just after the cool factor.
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...y-Ford-8.8-Kit

Atmos

^^nice. all in one kit


I still like the ruffstuff antiwrap perches. plus you can have them throw a diff cover into your order. very worth it
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/88SS-31.html
just missing the flange adapter. but you should be able to pick that up at any driveline shop for $20-30
I'll agree. no real need for the truss. just weld the tubes to the housing

RubberSideUp

Truss is better than no truss in a relationship.

chrisquested

Have you ever used iro long arms? Because I read and read and read all this stuff about how bad they where and I did not buy them for couple months and then decided to just buy them and I used them and smashed them on logs and rocks and they held up fine????

andrewmp6

When you weld on the truss have the axle tubed fully welded to the center,From the factory they have 2 plug welds that can break free off road.

wrapstar

The iro truss is 1/2 too long on both sides to get the inside u bolts in and I have axle wrap now with there perches.

Barrelmaker

I'm doing ruff stuff simple swap for the 8.8.
Look into some steering, plenty of good kits out there.
Or fab up something.

huntingman2706217

I have Ruff stuffs simple axle swap... love it no complaints.... would have gone with TNT's truss with integrated mounts for a 8.8 swap into the XJ though (mines a MJ but im sure they could have made it for me also)... just a bit more and your trussed...

Welding the center section to the axle tubes is a must like said... although i havent done it yet with no problems...

Use this brake line in the link... its 12in long and will plug and play both ends... no rebuilding the entire brake line system like everyone else does... all factory stuff and can be bought at autozone and oreillys... you wont need extended brake lines ever for the rear... i forget how a XJ hooks up but in the MJ i ground the hex and made it round so i even used the factory brackets... i use them on the front as well
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=21451_0_0_

I went with 2in thick adapters front and rear... i run factory 12 spoke aluminum wheels... the fronts dont look any wider than the rears however my tires like to rub the frame... this is a problem factory for the MJ's anyway... if you run the C-clip eliminator kit in the 8.8 itll get you within i think 1/8in of the dana 30 width by itself if im not mistaking... recommended as well since your building the chunck anyways...

i run 35's pretty hard on both my dana 30 and 8.8 with no problems so far... the dana 30 is locked with a yukon spartan locker... love it... found a guy selling new for $289 shipped on ebay... also look into a WJ knuckle and brake conversion before you buy your steering... not something you want to do after you buy steering...

steering... dont fork out money on the axles then cheap out on some RC steering components... get something thats gonna hold up... i used WJ steering... flipped of the knuckle... its longer so i cut it down to size and sleeved it with DOM from tie rod to tie rod... this way i got the angle the WJ tie rods give to get around the diff and they are plenty beef to handle 35's... JKS sells the hub adapter plates and WJ knuckle tie rod sleeves to move over the knuckle... WJ knuckles can also be used with a one ton steering style setup... one ton steering tie rod sleeves can be had about anywhere...

also recommend ruff stuffs diff covers like dude above... they are beef as hell... may get in the way on some rigs because they are so beef... my dana 60 i know it does... may go to a dual ram system when i move the axle to the MJ so i dont have to worry about it anymore...

hope this helps man!

huntingman2706217

added note... with the WJ knuckles, brakes, brake booster, and master cylinder, i can lock up my 35's on pavement... although i feel like the rest of my trucks just gonna snap somewhere lol...

chrisquested

I plan on ordering more stuff from you soon I am looking at your steering also

chrisquested

I found a good deal on some 37/12.50/R17 Bfg km2 do y'all think with 4:88 gears, lock right locker up front, chromoly shaft up front that the axles will handle the 37s?

bheath

37's is pushing it on a d30 regardless of most upgrades. once you upgrade everything you are still left with those tiny ujoints... if you are going to build axles, 44 front and 8.8 rear would be a minimum for me but that's my opinion. a 44/8.8 combo will handle 37's just fine.