Brakes are squishy - keep bleeding them, no leaks
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6 Stroker
Brakes are squishy - keep bleeding them, no leaks
My brakes have been really soft, and so I decided to bleed them. In the process, the passenger rear drum bleeder valve snapped off clean. Old and rusty.
I got ahold of some rear discs from a ZJ and mounted them on my 8.25. Unfortunately, no matter how much I bleed them, they are just as soft as before... like pedal to the floor soft.
I'm not finding any leaks around the calipers, proportioning valve, hoses or master cylinder. I don't see any more air in the lines when I bleed with a vacuum pump. I have no idea what else to try.
There is one thing that seems a bit odd. Sometimes when I push the pedal all the way to the floor I hear a slight popping sound coming from the engine area. I don't know of that's worth noting or not.
I'm pretty fed up with trying to figure this out. I don't feel safe driving with it like it is.
I got ahold of some rear discs from a ZJ and mounted them on my 8.25. Unfortunately, no matter how much I bleed them, they are just as soft as before... like pedal to the floor soft.
I'm not finding any leaks around the calipers, proportioning valve, hoses or master cylinder. I don't see any more air in the lines when I bleed with a vacuum pump. I have no idea what else to try.
There is one thing that seems a bit odd. Sometimes when I push the pedal all the way to the floor I hear a slight popping sound coming from the engine area. I don't know of that's worth noting or not.
I'm pretty fed up with trying to figure this out. I don't feel safe driving with it like it is.
#2
CF Veteran
for starters, did you put the calipers on the correct sides?
what did you do about the proportioning valve?
maybe your master is leaking into your booster?
maybe you should take it to a brake mechanic...
what did you do about the proportioning valve?
maybe your master is leaking into your booster?
maybe you should take it to a brake mechanic...
#6
just replace the booster. those boosters suck. if you can..you should upgrade to the duel booster out of a newer jeep. but even then a new factory replacement would most likely fix your problem.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6 Stroker
The master leaking into booster... Hm. How would I go about checking into that? I'll google around, but I appreciate any pointers.
Trending Topics
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6 Stroker
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6 Stroker
I bought some front hoses for a '95 GMC 1500 for the extra length, but I haven't fit them yet. Rear hoses are original.
I haven't put a priority on swapping them (I definitely will today or tomorrow). I was thinking if they were collapsed or a problem, then they would either leak fluid near a crack, or not release fluid when bled.
I haven't put a priority on swapping them (I definitely will today or tomorrow). I was thinking if they were collapsed or a problem, then they would either leak fluid near a crack, or not release fluid when bled.
#10
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Bamberg Germany
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, Nothing better
When you switch to disc brakes on a vehicle you should change allot of items. This is because drums take a different amount of fluid and pressure than disc. First is the proportioning valve. Since disc is stronger than drum the line pressures need to change for correct front to rear proportioning. Or you could just be over using the front or rear to much. This can also change with master cylinders. Disc normaly take a different amount of fluid so the master cylinder bore size can change. Also as noted above insure that calipers are placed with bleeders at the top, and use the same DOT brake fluid throught out. If you mix fluids it can screw allot of things up. If possible I would try to salvage the same proportioning valve, and master cylinder off of the vehicle that you got the rotors and calipers from. This is some food for thought. Reply back with what you find.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6 Stroker
That's an idea. Do you know off hand which model/year will fit? Is it a lot in solution?
#12
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I know you said this before but, I did a brake job on my jeep and have done it a few times so I feel I know what I'm doing. The last time I replaced the calipers in the front I must have had a brain fart and put them in upside down they fit perfect on ether side. They were doing what you're saying with no air coming out but as soon as I flipped them they bleed right away. If they are installed with the bleeder screw on top I will shut up now.
I was reading about this brake swap awhile back and the big question was the proportioning valve. What I came up with was I was not going to use the zj valve. Other than the bleeding issue how well did the swap go? Could you list all the parts you had to use from the zj. Thanks Jon.
I was reading about this brake swap awhile back and the big question was the proportioning valve. What I came up with was I was not going to use the zj valve. Other than the bleeding issue how well did the swap go? Could you list all the parts you had to use from the zj. Thanks Jon.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: vanburen
Posts: 720
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1995 &2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
93 to 98 zj with the v8 you have to trim the rod a little but its pretty much bolt on there are tons of Wright ups on the booster and MC swap. You may try getting some stainless brake hoses for front and rear did that on a buds cj7 with 4 wheel disc it help alot and his petal is not squishy anymore. Its my next upgrade since I just done the zj rear disc too my petal is squishy also unless I pump the brakes a few times but it stops better than it ever did with drums
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Broward County Fl.
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
22 Posts
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
My brakes have been really soft, and so I decided to bleed them. In the process, the passenger rear drum bleeder valve snapped off clean. Old and rusty.
I got ahold of some rear discs from a ZJ and mounted them on my 8.25. Unfortunately, no matter how much I bleed them, they are just as soft as before... like pedal to the floor soft.
I'm not finding any leaks around the calipers, proportioning valve, hoses or master cylinder. I don't see any more air in the lines when I bleed with a vacuum pump. I have no idea what else to try.
There is one thing that seems a bit odd. Sometimes when I push the pedal all the way to the floor I hear a slight popping sound coming from the engine area. I don't know of that's worth noting or not.
I'm pretty fed up with trying to figure this out. I don't feel safe driving with it like it is.
I got ahold of some rear discs from a ZJ and mounted them on my 8.25. Unfortunately, no matter how much I bleed them, they are just as soft as before... like pedal to the floor soft.
I'm not finding any leaks around the calipers, proportioning valve, hoses or master cylinder. I don't see any more air in the lines when I bleed with a vacuum pump. I have no idea what else to try.
There is one thing that seems a bit odd. Sometimes when I push the pedal all the way to the floor I hear a slight popping sound coming from the engine area. I don't know of that's worth noting or not.
I'm pretty fed up with trying to figure this out. I don't feel safe driving with it like it is.