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Brakeline replacement

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Old 09-24-2014, 01:41 AM
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Default Brakeline replacement

I found a leak in my brake line going to my front right tire...
I was wondering when I replace the line do I have to order the metal lines pre bent or do I bend them to fit after I order them??
Lmk if you guys changed your brake lines please
Also can I use flexible brake lines like durable hoses or do they have to be solid metal lines?
Thanks!
Old 09-24-2014, 01:46 AM
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I just broke my rear brake lines due to rust at the fittings. They sell precut lengths at Advance Auto. They are straight and will need bending. Take the lines in that are broke so you can measure roughly what you need. Unfortunately they come in 10" increments. So one rear line was 51" but they only sold 60". I had to take up the extra tubing in a long bend just under the leaf spring. Fixed my broken lines in under 30 mins. Free hand bent the last portion, just remember not to bend all in one spot to prevent a crease.
Old 09-29-2014, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bjmcconk
I just broke my rear brake lines due to rust at the fittings. They sell precut lengths at Advance Auto. They are straight and will need bending. Take the lines in that are broke so you can measure roughly what you need. Unfortunately they come in 10" increments. So one rear line was 51" but they only sold 60". I had to take up the extra tubing in a long bend just under the leaf spring. Fixed my broken lines in under 30 mins. Free hand bent the last portion, just remember not to bend all in one spot to prevent a crease.
Thanks, I don't have an autozone near me but I do have a Orielly Auto parts. Would this work for the main brake line hose?
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...0833&ppt=C0066

I have to replace all the lines. The one that goes to the driver side, passenger side and rear line.
I know I'm gonna have to learn how to flare the ends of all the lines.
Old 09-29-2014, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Makoa89XJ
Thanks, I don't have an autozone near me but I do have a Orielly Auto parts. Would this work for the main brake line hose?
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...0833&ppt=C0066

I have to replace all the lines. The one that goes to the driver side, passenger side and rear line.
I know I'm gonna have to learn how to flare the ends of all the lines.
Appears to be the right brake line. Most likely you need new fittings and should replaced the old corroded ones.

There are kits that include both a coil and fittings.

e.g.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Brake-Line-Tubing-Kit-3-16-O-D-x-25-foot-Coil-with-15-assorted-fittings-/251323511801?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a840c73f9&vxp=mtr

There are also ... this type http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cupro-Nickel-Brake-Line-Tubing-Kit-3-16-O-D-x-25-ft-Coil-w-15-3-16-fittings-/321173409272?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac76d4df8&vxp=mtr
http://www.fmsiinc.com/pdf/cupro-nickel-info.pdf

.... and stainless brake lines ... stainless is more difficult to shape and flare. Requires a tool or bit capable of flaring stainless.

Last edited by Andonso1; 09-29-2014 at 11:14 PM.
Old 09-30-2014, 01:08 AM
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If i could do it over I would try and find straight tubing and get the fittings seperate. Specially if your doing all new break lines. The pre cut and flared tubing is nice but looks pretty hacked up when it was done. It was an easy fix while installing the lift.

I would get rid of all the tubing with the spring protector on it. That is what is causing all the rust issues. Eventually I will get the main line that goes to the rear changed.

Theres also a tool that looks like a crimper but fits tubing and has a round top and bottom which makes bending tube much easier.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231330421887?lpid=82
This is pricey here but ive seen them cheaper, just forget where.
Old 09-30-2014, 04:27 AM
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I can see how straight lines might provide a better starting point to create a bend from.

I prefer the steel brake coils. The rear lines are fairly easy to install. The shapes and bends don't need to be exactly the same as the OEs. Just as long as a similar amount of line is used, approx. path of the old lines and that they're tied up and secured correctly.

The flaring needs to done correctly to prevent any leaks.

The front lines along the firewall require more precise shaping and bending inside the engine compartment.

In some areas the brake lines can be reshaped, once connected, with a rubber mallet.

It's important you coil the lines and leave enough slack around the MC similar to the OEs.

The brake tool looks interesting, as it appears it would facilitate bending more precise shapes for the front lines around the firewall and wheels.

When shaping/bending by hand you need to be careful not to overbend or crimp the lines.

I prefer to install armor same as the OE. My factory oe rear lines along the axle never had any rust issues near or around the armor. Any hard line rust issues in the rear lines was away from the armor.

Last edited by Andonso1; 09-30-2014 at 04:38 AM.
Old 10-08-2014, 04:28 AM
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I've decided I'm just gonna run into Napa and get precut lines with fittings. I'm hoping I can just take my old lines in and get the same length and diameter hose and then install them on my jeep.

The problem is,I cut up most of the lines when I was tearing them out of my truck. Oops.
If anyone knows what the original lengths of the main hard lines are, that would be great. Thanks
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