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So I bought a complete used front axle with, supposedly, a powertrax locker in it. The seller said it came on his jeep that he bought for his daughter, and he didn't want her to deal with the locker. Thing is the previous-previous owner perma locked it by installing washers at the pins so they are always extended & locked. I saw this when I bought it and thought it'd be an easy fix by just disassembling it, but now I can't see a way to do that.
First question, can someone help me identify this locker? powertrax makes different models I guess and the numbers on the unit don't match any of them, but the holes on the side look like 2210LR. The markings on the unit say H(symbol)1 and DHB.
Second question, the axle is a low pinion dana 30 off an XJ. I have a high pinion 1997 XJ. Can someone confirm if the lunchbox will fit? It seems like the new units don't distinguish between the 2.
Third and most important question, can someone suggest a way to disassemble it? The only way I see is to angle grind carefully through the pins between the washers. There are 2210LR rebuild kits with new pins & springs, so hopefully that'll fix my issue.
The carriers for the high and low pinion are the same so no problem there. To take it apart you have to remove the springs first, I am not sure why someone would washers on it, I would be sure to closely inspect the locker, and make sure the thrust washers are in it when you get it out.
I'm not for sure, but from what I gather attention must be applied about the difference in ring and pinion gears. I think they are cut different in a high pinion than they are in a low pinion so they are not mix and match in this aspect.
Yea I'm not planning on using the gears, just the carrier+lunchbox & keep the axles+bearings as spares. I'll try to sell the rest with my open carrier if all goes well.
Yea I'm not planning on using the gears, just the carrier+lunchbox & keep the axles+bearings as spares. I'll try to sell the rest with my open carrier if all goes well.
You don't need to swap carriers and if you do swap carriers you'll have to re set up the gear pattern and that is very precise and hard. You should be able to pull the springs out and slide the pins back and get the washers out then the rest can be disassembled. The Locker is the same for high and low pinion dana 30s. Low pinion dana 30s are best for their scrap metal and keeping the knuckles off of. Low pinions are crap.
You don't need to swap carriers and if you do swap carriers you'll have to re set up the gear pattern and that is very precise and hard. You should be able to pull the springs out and slide the pins back and get the washers out then the rest can be disassembled. The Locker is the same for high and low pinion dana 30s. Low pinion dana 30s are best for their scrap metal and keeping the knuckles off of. Low pinions are crap.
I figured I'd swap carriers so I didn't need to deal with swapping the spider gears, but you make a good point. So I'll put the lunchbox in my carrier and swap the spider gears into the new carrier.
I figured I'd swap carriers so I didn't need to deal with swapping the spider gears, but you make a good point. So I'll put the lunchbox in my carrier and swap the spider gears into the new carrier.
Swapping spider gears/Locker isn't hard at all. Takes me like 30 minutes start to finish.
Agreed. My only roadblock is getting the lunchbox out. I'm guessing that if the washers weren't there, I'd be able to just compress the 2 halves and slide it out, right?
remove center pin, pull the springs out the holes, the pins slide over to the the side that had the springs in them, inner cog cups come out, spacers, then outer cog cups, thrust washer spacers. It will make sense when you do it. Watch someone on youtube. Don't cut anything. Don't put the washers back in. Re use your carrier unless you are changing gears. Clock your ring gear so it goes back on your carrier the same way it came off.
Agreed. My only roadblock is getting the lunchbox out. I'm guessing that if the washers weren't there, I'd be able to just compress the 2 halves and slide it out, right?
Google the instructions for installing a Locker and do the reverse. Pretty much every Locker like that installs the same no matter what brand it is.
so that was simple enough. Pins came out no problem but they're broken. Searching online, I see this is a problem that could occur due to shock from breaking an axle. The locker teeth look good, almost new with no wear. The thrust washers and cups are present too. I guess I'll get the rebuild kit to replace the pins and hope that they don't shear on me.
Also, doing some research, I learned that the symbol is the Richmond gear symbol and it looks like a Lock-right design.
so that was simple enough. Pins came out no problem but they're broken. Searching online, I see this is a problem that could occur due to shock from breaking an axle. The locker teeth look good, almost new with no wear. The thrust washers and cups are present too. I guess I'll get the rebuild kit to replace the pins and hope that they don't shear on me.
Also, doing some research, I learned that the symbol is the Richmond gear symbol and it looks like a Lock-right design.
You aren't supposed to put the shims back in when you install the Locker, at least with all the ones I've done.
02-10-2018, 07:22 AM
Bought a used locker, need help
