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bolt pattern on inline 6 vs inline 4

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Old 11-01-2011, 01:42 AM
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Default bolt pattern on inline 6 vs inline 4

i currently drive a 96 cherokee sport with a high output 4.0 inline six. and i also have an 86 cherokee inline 4 with a manual 5 speed. i like the power the 4.0 has but i am gonna be driving the inline 4 for a while for fuel efficiency. i eventually want to put an inline 6 in place of the inline 4 in the 86 cherokee should it just bolt right up to the 5 speed or will i need to find a different tranny and what year range motor should i be putting in i know i need at least 95 and older but is there a tighter year range then that??
Old 11-01-2011, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeeptunes
i currently drive a 96 cherokee sport with a high output 4.0 inline six. and i also have an 86 cherokee inline 4 with a manual 5 speed. i like the power the 4.0 has but i am gonna be driving the inline 4 for a while for fuel efficiency. i eventually want to put an inline 6 in place of the inline 4 in the 86 cherokee should it just bolt right up to the 5 speed or will i need to find a different tranny and what year range motor should i be putting in i know i need at least 95 and older but is there a tighter year range then that??
The AMC 4-150, I believe, uses the "GM Metric" bellhousing pattern (used on the 60-degree V6 and Pontiac 4-151 - the latter of which was replaced by the 4-150 for 1983 in AMC and Jeep applications.)

The AMC 6-242 uses the "AMC" bellhousing pattern, which is shared among the four iterations of the "Modern Era" six and Gen-II & Gen-III AMC V8.

No, they're not directly compatible. That, and the manual used with the 4-150 (early ones may have BorgWarner T4 or T5, but the Aisin AX-4 and AX-5 are far more common) aren't quite enough to support the torque output of the 6-242.

Doesn't mean you can't swap in the whole 6-242 powertrain - just avoid the 1987-1988.5 6-242 setup, since it comes with the Peugeot BA-10/5 transmission (the engine is fine, but the transmission is misapplied. I went through four of them.) The 6-242 has been found with four other manual gearboxen in Jeep applications:

1988.5-1993/1994 (or thereabouts) got the AX-15i - the transmission was better, but it used an "internal" or "concentric" combination slave cylinder/throwout bearing, which is generally a failure-prone dingus that should be tossed.
1994/1995 through 1999 (TJ) or 2000 (XJ) got the AX-15e, which uses a proper divorced slave cylinder acting on the throwout bearing through a fork. Still a good transmission, but it finally eliminated that wretched concentric slave cylinder (it was a bad idea when Mazda did it, it remained a bad idea when Ford did it, and the story has yet to improve with retelling.) The XJ got the AX-15e 2000-2001.
2004 (I think)-2006 TJ got the NSG370 - integral bellhousing (so swaps won't work without an adapter plate,) but it's primarily a Benz-designed six-speed gearbox. I'd love to have one. (As I recall, it's a four-speed double-overdrive gearbox. It would be more useful as 1+4+1 - four-speed with single overdrive and a "granny gear," but Daimler didn't think of that. So you'd typically drive it using second through fifth - so what? I had an old Chebby pickup with an SM465 in it, and the 6.5:1 first gear meant I drove it in second through fourth. No trouble here.)

NB: The YJ and TJ had a transfer case adapter that was "clocked" to tuck the transfer case flatter up against the belly. This can be overcome in different ways:
- Find a non-YJ/TJ transfer case adapter housing for that transmission, and use it. The AX-15 was also found in 1993-early 1994 ZJ with 6-242, and was used behind the LA238 V6 in the Dodge Dakota (and possibly Durango.) The Dodge bellhousings won't work, but the transfer case adapters should.
- Get a "clocking ring" to adapt the transfer case - check with Novak or Advance Adapters for this. It's also possible to have one made, but you'll need to extend the transmission output shaft a couple of inches to reach the tcase. (This requires a decent little stick of steel rod and a spline hob...)
- Many transfer case adapter housings have enough material to redrill them to a new "clock" - if you're steady and handy, this is also an option.

NB: Do not "flip" a NP/NVG transfer case! They're lubricated through the use of a small gearotor pump circulating the Dexron they're specified to use, and flipping it over will starve the geartrain, chain, and bearings for oil. This will wreck your transfer case in short order!

FURTHER NOTES:
- The 1986 wasn't designed to take the AMC I6 - the front clip was modified to accept it in 1987. Check around for necessary modifications. I haven't done the swap, but others have, and have detailed what they've had to do. Also, note that a GM V6 (like the 6-262) or V8 (small blocks are easiest) swap is entirely possible, and you don't need to modify anything (even the typical SB V8 is approximately the same length as the typical four-cylinder.)
- You should not have to make underbody mods to mount everything.
- You can use any donor engine you like, since you'll have to bring the electronic controls along anyhow. The primary restriction will be in smog regs, if you're subject to any (if you are, check. Nothing like going through a bunch of work on a project and being downchecked for bureaucratic BS...)
- Easiest way to go is to buy an entire donor vehicle, so you know you'll have everything available. Second easiest is to buy everything you even think you're going to need from the donor vehicle - this can save you having to figure stuff out. (Major engine swaps aren't terribly easy in general, and it's a running joke that "the most difficult engine to swap into a Jeep is a Jeep engine." I probably had an easier time when I had to redesign that '71 Bug to accept a G/N twin turbo V6...)
Old 11-01-2011, 02:34 PM
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Not to high jack this thread...but I've got a 4.0 out of a ZJ....I have a 94 2dr 5spd I4...which manual transmission do I have and which one do I need to make the engine swap happen?

Once again, sorry if I'm out of line...just needin info and this is all I've found so far....
Old 11-01-2011, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 5-90
FURTHER NOTES:
- The 1986 wasn't designed to take the AMC I6 - the front clip was modified to accept it in 1987. Check around for necessary modifications. I haven't done the swap, but others have, and have detailed what they've had to do. Also, note that a GM V6 (like the 6-262) or V8 (small blocks are easiest) swap is entirely possible, and you don't need to modify anything (even the typical SB V8 is approximately the same length as the typical four-cylinder.)
- You should not have to make underbody mods to mount everything.
- You can use any donor engine you like, since you'll have to bring the electronic controls along anyhow. The primary restriction will be in smog regs, if you're subject to any (if you are, check. Nothing like going through a bunch of work on a project and being downchecked for bureaucratic BS...)
- Easiest way to go is to buy an entire donor vehicle, so you know you'll have everything available. Second easiest is to buy everything you even think you're going to need from the donor vehicle - this can save you having to figure stuff out. (Major engine swaps aren't terribly easy in general, and it's a running joke that "the most difficult engine to swap into a Jeep is a Jeep engine." I probably had an easier time when I had to redesign that '71 Bug to accept a G/N twin turbo V6...)
when i lifted the hood i knew immediatly that i would need a different front clip without even measuring. i knew this cause i had enough hours in putting my i6 back together after i crashed it.
i wont be using a v8 cause in my eyes that takes the jeep out of the jeep i can tell if its a jeep just by listening to the motor crank over. i know its a sad but true fact lol.
i already knew about the smog pump i also noticed that upon popping the hood because lucky me im a certified inspection mechanic for my state and they screw me over whenever possible. and my county uses the emissions program so i will have to put the smog pump on whatever motor i put in. the ruling is if it looks like its hooked up then it passes lol
i also planned on hacking together the needed electrical mods
i guess i will just yank an a motor and trans from a boneyard jeep when im ready. till then i will be familiar with accessing the wires because i plan one properly installing an aftermarket sound system and any one who has ever tried know that running wires to the back of a jeep radio is a joke. cause u gotta take alot apart

Last edited by Jeeptunes; 11-01-2011 at 05:35 PM.
Old 11-01-2011, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 95whiteXJ
Not to high jack this thread...but I've got a 4.0 out of a ZJ....I have a 94 2dr 5spd I4...which manual transmission do I have and which one do I need to make the engine swap happen?

Once again, sorry if I'm out of line...just needin info and this is all I've found so far....
In the ZJ, the AX-15i was used 1993 to mid-1994 with the 6-242 (the V8 never got a manual.)

The XJ of similar vintage got the AX-15i.

The AX-15i is superior to the BA-10 (it's actually a Toyota light truck design, while the BA-10 was used in lightweight passenger cars,) but the internal slave is still problematic. This was eliminated in later versions (the AX-15e) which went to a divorced slave cylinder/throwout bearing setup.

Both versions of the AX-15 are essentially lightly modified Toyota R150s - I believe that's the base model. It's got a good history, I had a buddy that had a truck with the 22RE and R150 that we'd flogged holy Hell out of - and it kept coming back for more.
Old 11-01-2011, 10:12 PM
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i will keep that in mind
Old 11-01-2011, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 5-90

In the ZJ, the AX-15i was used 1993 to mid-1994 with the 6-242 (the V8 never got a manual.)

The XJ of similar vintage got the AX-15i.

The AX-15i is superior to the BA-10 (it's actually a Toyota light truck design, while the BA-10 was used in lightweight passenger cars,) but the internal slave is still problematic. This was eliminated in later versions (the AX-15e) which went to a divorced slave cylinder/throwout bearing setup.

Both versions of the AX-15 are essentially lightly modified Toyota R150s - I believe that's the base model. It's got a good history, I had a buddy that had a truck with the 22RE and R150 that we'd flogged holy Hell out of - and it kept coming back for more.
So I have the AX-15I? In which case will NOT bolt to the 6-242, correct?

If this is the case, which 5spd tranny do I need to get to be able to drop the 6-242 into my 2dr XJ and still have a manual transmission?
Old 11-02-2011, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 95whiteXJ
So I have the AX-15I? In which case will NOT bolt to the 6-242, correct?

If this is the case, which 5spd tranny do I need to get to be able to drop the 6-242 into my 2dr XJ and still have a manual transmission?
The AX-15 - from a Jeep - will bolt to the 6-242 without incident. That was the original Jeep application for it.

The AX-15 was used in the Dakota as well - but you'll need to swap the bellhousing to make it work (the Dodge LA pattern isn't compatible with the AMC.) The Toyota R150 (I believe) is also useful, but the bellhousing pattern for Toyota is even more different from AMC than the LA block.

However, the bellhousings should swap freely, and I think the 1.125"-10 was used on all varieties of input shaft. The pilots may be different sizes, but that's easy enough to deal with. Converting the AX-15i to the AX-15e involves swapping the bellhousing, front bearing retainer, and associated parts (throwout bearing, throwout lever, pivot ball. You should be able to get those with your replacement bellhousing. All AMC-patterened bellhousings should be able to mount the CKP, so that shouldn't pose a problem.
Old 11-02-2011, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 5-90

The AX-15 - from a Jeep - will bolt to the 6-242 without incident. That was the original Jeep application for it.

The AX-15 was used in the Dakota as well - but you'll need to swap the bellhousing to make it work (the Dodge LA pattern isn't compatible with the AMC.) The Toyota R150 (I believe) is also useful, but the bellhousing pattern for Toyota is even more different from AMC than the LA block.

However, the bellhousings should swap freely, and I think the 1.125"-10 was used on all varieties of input shaft. The pilots may be different sizes, but that's easy enough to deal with. Converting the AX-15i to the AX-15e involves swapping the bellhousing, front bearing retainer, and associated parts (throwout bearing, throwout lever, pivot ball. You should be able to get those with your replacement bellhousing. All AMC-patterened bellhousings should be able to mount the CKP, so that shouldn't pose a problem.
If I could shake your hand and buy you a drink I would!!

This is the info I've been lookin for, sorry for high jackin this thread!! Looks like I know what I'm doin today:icon_grin:

Thankns for your time!!
Old 11-02-2011, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 95whiteXJ

If I could shake your hand and buy you a drink I would!!

This is the info I've been lookin for, sorry for high jackin this thread!! Looks like I know what I'm doin today:icon_grin:

Thankns for your time!!
Oh wait...so I DO or DON'T...have the AX-15i in my 5spd I4 '94 XJ?
Old 11-02-2011, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 95whiteXJ
Oh wait...so I DO or DON'T...have the AX-15i in my 5spd I4 '94 XJ?
You do have the AX-15, I'm just not sure of the dividing line between AX-15i and AX-15e.

It's easy enough to tell - crawl under and look at the driver's side of the bellhousing. If you can see where the line enters the cylinder, you have the AX-15e. If you see the line going in through a "rubber" block, and see another line coming out with a bleeder fitting on it (and both move easily in & out with slight finger pressure,) you have the AX-15i. (The lines going into the cylinder at the bellhousing will feel rigid, but the lines going through to the internal slave will show about 1/2" of axial play with simple finger pressure.)
Old 11-02-2011, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 5-90

You do have the AX-15, I'm just not sure of the dividing line between AX-15i and AX-15e.

It's easy enough to tell - crawl under and look at the driver's side of the bellhousing. If you can see where the line enters the cylinder, you have the AX-15e. If you see the line going in through a "rubber" block, and see another line coming out with a bleeder fitting on it (and both move easily in & out with slight finger pressure,) you have the AX-15i. (The lines going into the cylinder at the bellhousing will feel rigid, but the lines going through to the internal slave will show about 1/2" of axial play with simple finger pressure.)
Ok, I got it...I think lol...not real great with transmissions..learning tho...and you, good sir, have been a wealth of knowledge and great help!! Thanks again for your time!!

Semper Fi
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