JPXJMOAB

Well I've completed my 8.25 axle swap with ZJ discs and ABS delete. The time has come to bleed the brakes and I can't get a decent pedal. For brakes I installed all new hard lines except for the long center one and the rear soft hose that connects to it., new soft hoses on rear calipers and new front extended brake lines. I removed the ABS pump, unplugged the large connector and pulled the relay/fuse.

I've gone around the brakes 6 times and bled them starting farthest from the MC. Good fluid comes out without any air from each caliper. The pedal gets firm but still slightly mushy if pumped up. If I wait 10 seconds and pump it again the pedal goes to the floor? If I watch the brake fluid level it goes down slightly when pumping the brakes but when you stop it slowly goes back to the full mark. And before anyone asks yes I've double checked all the fittings and they're not leaking.

I've bled brakes a million times but this is giving the a damn hard time! HELP!

93_xjcherokee

When I got rid of my abs, my abs fuse and relay had to be plugged in or I would get the same thing. Always squishy no matter how much you bleed it

JPXJMOAB

I did try plugging them back in and that didn't do anything unfortunately

caged

bleeders are above the lines i assume?

JPXJMOAB

All except the passenger front caliper, I bought it that way. Not sure if that would make a difference or not?

JPXJMOAB

Update, got a different caliper that's the right side up and I have pedal! It's still somewhat mushy and won't get any more firm. Brake booster is pulling good vacuum and MC doesn't appear to be leaking. Any opinions?

Turbo X_J

If the fluid level dropped in the MC to where it sucked air, the MC must be bench bled.

JPXJMOAB

It never got that low

mbart

not trying to hijack this thread but I am also having trouble with my rear brake lines. I put extended brake lines in the rear with a new union as one comes with the kit. my problem is that when I was taking off my passenger side brake line I busted up the thread causing me to have to re flare the brake line and put it back into the new union on the axle tube. but my brake line is still leaking. what should I do to try to fix this? re flare it?

JPXJMOAB

If it's leaking at the rear splitter look at the threads and make sure they aren't damaged otherwise reflare it

cdn_xj

I haven't checked the reservoir in my XJ but in my other vehicle there is a wall inside the reservoir that splits the interior into two section: one to feed the front brakes and a second to feed the rear. This wall is there so that if you have a fluid leak in one circuit (either front or rear) you do not lose ALL of your fluid and therefore ALL of your braking.

The wall does not go to the very top of the reservoir so that the brake fluid can be shared by both, but if the fluid level drops too low while bleeding, you will drain only 1/2 of the reservoir and it can look as if there is still sufficient fluid. The rear section is smaller than the front so this wall is frequently located aft of the reservoir cap.

Check the reservoir very carefully to ensure that both sections have fluid.

JPXJMOAB

XJs have a single resovoir

cdn_xj

Yes, it's one reservoir but there are 2 chambers inside the reservoir. (I just checked mine).

robertj

When I've done extensive brake work in the past and replaced lines, calipers, etc, I've always had fantastic luck with a reverse bleed system along with bench bleeding the master cylinder. Other than that, I've always struggled as the OP has. They are a little pricey, but for me it was a tool I feel like I have to have for this type of work.

00t444e

You can get a reverse bleeder at Harbor Freight for cheap that works fine.