Bigred95

I just ordered my new RE springs on Wednesday, so they should be in soon. My last XJ was not so fun to remove the leaf springs without a torch. I had the bolt backed out a little way before it got hooked up in the metal sleeve/bushing and had to be cut on both sides of the leaves (this was a pain). What route should I go this time? Would it be an easier job with a torch? A buddy of mine has an Oxy torch, so I was wondering if it would be less hassle to use the torch this time instead of having to do a lot of cutting. Would the torch help remove the bolts without doing a bunch of cutting? Has anyone living in the rust belt had success with using a torch on leaf spring bolts? I am sort of new to torches and their capabilities, so thats why I am asking.

unidentifiedbomb

Just spray the bolts at least twice a day from now until you are ready to take them off. Use a breaker bar first before the impact. I live in NJ and my 25 yr old jeep didn't break a single leaf bolt and that's what I did. I only broke one sway bar and the u-bolts throughout the whole lift

hickatron

It could be a bad idea but I had to use a sawzaw because my bolts got hung up in the busshings.

I ARE EL1TE

x2

Also, using PB blaster or other rust penitrant spray (not WD-40) cannot be stressed enough. Spray the bolts a minimum of 2 times per day for at least a week. Even after that it took me and my buddy 4 hours to get his bolts out.

glass3222

Spray a lot of PB Blaster. When removing, rotated out 1/2 turn, then in 1/4 turn and repeat, same as you would tapping new threads. Also, keep spraying some PB in as you go. This will help keep the bolts from binding in the bushings.

Good luck. If that doesn't work, then cut.

ta2tony

Anyone used Liquid Wrench for this? Got it from a diesel mechanic buddy...I imagine its about the same as PB blaster...

XJwonders

I would recommend kroil. It work faster and better than liquid wrench and pb blaster

That Jeep Guy XJMJ

the "spray em" direction works occasionally for me but i typically just opt for the heat... get the nut to a subtle orange glow and then impact.... if all else fails we usually take a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder.... cut the hardware off flush with the brackets and then pry the mounts out slightly to let the springs drop out...

wouldn't be a bad idea to slather some BRONZE Anti-seize on the new hardware before install. None of that silver gunk! make sure its bronze

ta2tony

Readily available from the local auto parts store?

Also, is there a list somewhere on here of all the nut/bolt/washer sizes to replace everything when doing a lift (all shock and leaf spring bolts)? That'd sure be a lot easier to go to the hardware store in advance and have them instead of waiting til everything was pulled off/cut in pieces before taking them to the store to search for matches. I HATE having to run for parts in the middle of working on a car...

Bossokee

Make sure you spray the nut inside the frame rail, spraying the bolt itself wont do much good. I managed to torque out my bolts with a big cheater bar until they backed out of the nut. At that points the bolt would just spin and I noticed the whole sleeve in the bushing was spinning. The bolt had fused itself to the sleeve with rust and i had to cut the bolts on both sides of the bushing with a sawzall. Wasn't easy but i was able to replace the bolt and get the new spring installed after a lot of frustration. Also, I would just go to a dealer for these bolts. they come with some locktite in the threads already and you wont have to worry about the size or threads threads being slightly off spec

That Jeep Guy XJMJ

your lower control arms and leaf spring bolts are 9/16's. shocks mounts (@ the axle) i'm pretty sure are 3/8 and i believe your upper control arm bolts are a metric.... but i don't remember what size...

Bigred95

When applying heat, do you apply heat to the area of the weldnut that resides in the frame? What about the area with the metal sleeve or the bolt head? that is the area that prevents these bolts from getting out isnt it? I didnt seem to have much trouble with the weldnuts, my problem was the bolt would not come out any farther because of the sleeve on the last leaf spring job I did. That is the only reason why I ask if I should apply heat to the sleeve area (which I am sure would be stinky) or the bolt head. I am somewhat new to torches, so I just want to be sure.

That Jeep Guy XJMJ

usually work the nut off first. then get the remaining bolt nice and hot then get an air gun nozzle and cool the bolt down... heat it up and expand the bolt and sleeve, then hitting it with the air nozzle will cool it down and shrink the bolt. do this a few times and it should gaurentee the sleeve not being stuck to the bolt. Its worked many times for me.

If your not comfortable with the torches then i'd suggest have a buddy who is give it a go. Its nothing complicated but torches in my opinion aren't something to play around with.

the weld nut is not easy to get to... i typically cut a window below where it sits (its own little cavity between the leaf box mount and unibody) and knock the sucker out then swap in a new grade 8 bolt and nut

Bigred95

Alright, thanks for the info, appreciate it.