Team SAW

I am trying to decide on what axles to upgrade to. I have searched all over this forum and other jeep forums but I can't find a good answer for a couple questions.

First off, here are a couple builds I'm interested in from ECGS

Dana 44JK XJ Rear Bolt In Axle Assembly - 35 Spline
(CAA44JK-XJ-R)
Suspension Lift: 4"- 5"
Select Year: XJ 84-96
Driveshaft Style : CV-SYE
SELECT DIFF COVER: SOLID (+$75.00)
SELECT LOCKER: ARB - RD157 (+$875.00)
SELECT RATIO: D44JK-488 (+$525.00)
SELECT YOKE: 1310 (+$60.00)
UPGRADE DISC BRAKES: Disc Brake / Set 20 Upgrade (+$550.00)
WMS: 61.5

TOTAL = $3220

AND

Ford 8.8" Rear Axle Bolt In XJ Assembly
(CAA-F8.8-XJ)
Adapter Flange Driveshaft/ Yoke: 1310 Adapter Flange (+$35.00)
Suspension Lift: 4"- 5"
Select Year: XJ 84-96
ADD LUBE LOCKER GASKET: F8.8 LUBE LOCKER (+$21.00)
Axle Shaft Options: ECGS C-clip Elim kit (+$550.00)
ADD DIFF COVER: SOLID COVER (+$75.00)
Driveshaft Style : CV-SYE
ADD LOCKER: ARB- RD81 (+$895.00)
Brake Options: New Calipers/Pads/Ebrake Shoes/Rotors (+$180.00)
Reman Unit with New Gears: F8.8- 4.88 (+$565.00)
ADD E-BRAKE CABLES: Both E-Brake Cables (+$50.00)
FINISH: Flat Black
Select Gear Oil: No Gear Oil
Select ABS Compatibility: ABS Compatible (+$35.00)


TOTAL = $3021

1. I'm not sure which axle will offer the most strength because I cannot find much info on the 35 spline D44 compared to other axles.

2. Which will offer the best diff clearance?

3. I currently run 32 in tires but I plan on selling them and upgrading to 35 in tire in the near future, maybe larger depending on trimming.

4. I have asked around about finding axles in the junkyard and having local shops upgrade them but none of them offer any kind of warranty like ECGS (5 years). Is that normal for a local shop to not warranty their work?

Thanks!

Atmos

Is this for a competition rig? Either axle will work, it's all preference and availability.

If you're not competing with this jeep, that's a ****ing nutty amount of money to be spending on a recreation vehicle. Especially for a rear axle. If you're forking out that kind of doe it had better be for a fab'd 9" housing. I'd rather build a front axle for $3k and to hell with the rear. A good rear axle build should only cost $1000-$1500

drhoward1988

I built an axle on there site and lol 'd at the $6k price tag. That's a LS swap...or stroked 4.6 with lift, tires and axles built...

Atmos

Yeah those are some crazy prices for what essentially could be junk yard rear axles. You you're getting into the 3xxx price range it had better be a fully fabricated housing. And running more like a 37" tire

Team SAW

Any good suggestions on where else to look? When I asked a local shop to build an axle to the specs I showed them from ECGS they flat out told me they wouldn't do it...too much work! I couldn't believe it!

Another shop would not warranty their work AND it was going to cost me almost $3000 after parts and labor.

I live in a small town in NM with hardly any junk yard options. I could travel to El Paso, TX and see what they have but it's a little bit of a drive and I would have to find someone that could help me out because I do not have any welding or gear experience. Seems hard to find someone that's willing to take on the task with me...

drhoward1988

The best thing I can recommend is first figure out what kind of wheeling you will do. Next is do a lot of research on proven setups. Get yourself a parts lift together and begin searching for stuff st good prices. Call around where you love and get price estimates on the labor to rebuild a differential assembly (your axles). I couldn't see spending more than 2 grand, including install labor, on a well built axle.

Team SAW

I will head back to the drawing board and see if I can build something comparable for cheaper. The hardest part is finding a good shop to build this. Most of the wheelers I talk to where I live go to Phoenix or Tucson for labor but that incurs gas and lodging costs...

Atmos

What's wrong with your current axles? Are you breaking them now? You should be able to find a 29 spline 8.25 and then find a shop who will do some work on them for you. You need to do some research or someone's gonna end up taking all your money. There is a happy medium between stock axles and $3k shiners. Gain a little more knowledge and you should be able to get front and rear axles built up very well for about $2600 total cost

Team SAW

I was going up a wash with a lot of rocks and snapped a rear axle on my stock D35. Luckily someone was able to help me out and I called a buddy who took the jeep home on a trailer...

I'm trying to build something comparable to my buddies Rubicon with the D44 axles and selectable lockers. I also want to gear it to 4.88 and get good quality work done on it. His Rubicon cost him almost 35K so I figure I could upgrade my cherokee to be comparable for abound 12K (only paid 1K for it). I just swapped in a 4.6 stroker from promar and the extra torque is amazing! After the new engine and engine components I have about 7k left.

Atmos

all sounds very nice. but like I said, do a little more research before you pull the trigger on some high dollar parts. those JK 44 axles ain't much to brag about..
the way it will work is you buy some high dollar fancy axles and find out you could've had a much better setup for just a few more dollars, or a much cheaper setup that is just as strong if not stronger. if I was every looking into aftermarket axles it would be fabricated 9" housings.

keep on researching. as a guy who has done all the researching you need to do for yourself, ECGS is one of the last places I'd look for aftermarket axles. and the JK 44 axles are even farther down that list. don't let yourself have more dollars than sense.

to answer your other questions, the D44 should have more clearance than the 8.8.
at that level of buildup they should be fairly equal in strength, not that you'd ever really be able to break either axle on 35's even if you tried
I've never had a warranty on axle parts and never really was concerned with getting one. a local shop isn't going to warranty an axle buildup like that. only manufactures will warranty their own parts for defects

FWIW I was into my 8.8 build (gears, shafts, Detroit, swap kit, flange, driveshaft, housing, diff cover, the works) for about $900
same for the D30, with steering, for $1300. and that should take you everywhere your buddies $35,000 wrangler can go

andrewmp6

If you have a buddy that can weld good you can have a 8.8 in your jeep cheaper then the shipping charges will be on that one.You buy a kit like this http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...y-Ford-8.8-Kit and hit the junkyard get a 8.8 from a 95-00 ford explorer,If you want it regeared and a locker added you can drop it off at any off road shop or some good garages and have it done.Just remember the gear ratios front and back have to match.

Fred/N0AZZ

You will be very surprised how strong a Chy 8.25 with 29 spline axles are. I run them along with a lot of others very close in strength to a D44.

Tom95YJ

I agree with this statement. The 29 spline 8.25 is a stout axle. There is no way in hell you should be paying 3k for just a rear axle.

I'm currently building my Hp30 and 8.8 for my YJ and when all said and done I'll have just shy of 3k between both axles and that's with chromoly axleshafts , gears , full case lockers, perches , brakes , c clip eliminator , diff covers and labor.

Team SAW

Thanks for the help so far!

So, I found a 1998 Ford Explorer rear axle for $150 at a local junkyard. What should I be looking for on the housing before I buy it? Are there common area that break that will make it unusable?

Also, I found an elocker for 700, the 4.88 gears for 200 and a rebuild kit for 100. I also found some aftermarket xj brackets for 220. Am I missing anything else?

I was quoted 700 for labor which includes installing the gears, locker, rebuilding the axle with the rebuild kit and welding on the necessary brackets, basically making it ready to bolt right in. Does that sound about right for labor?

The shop also asked if I wanted a C-Clip eliminator with new 31 spline shafts and set 20 bearings. Is that stuff really necessary?

Tom95YJ

The c clip eliminator isn't needed but I am doing it since it's one less weak link. And the outter bearings are same size as a d60 with chromoly shafts