gameboy234

Hey everyone,

So I am interested in purchasing a Cherokee and I've come acrossed one on craigslist that says it has a AW4 Toyota Automatic trans in it? I don't know to much about vehicles let alone jeeps but would this be a good purchase? From the pictures it looks clean and no rust or anything but I don't know if that trans is stock or custom and will it cause problems? I am looking to buy a reliable truck for the winter and some occasional trail riding. It will be a secondary vehicle in less than a year and I would like to learn a little bit of how to work on cars myself. I am trying to save up for an everyday driver

this is the jist of the post for 3500$:

Up for Sale is a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic. Green exterior, grey/black Interior. This truck has the Inline 6 4.0l engine, with the AW4 Toyota Automatic trans. This set up is known to go forever.

My jeep has about 235k miles, oil changes are done with amsoil full syntheic every 5k miles or so, with a service flush done to the trans every other oil change, or at least twice a year, and Tcase fluid was replaced with amsoil atf last october. In the spring of 2011, I replaced the rear leafs with OLD Man Emu Dakar leafs, with new hardware and bushings. The rear shocks where replaced with Bilstien 5100 ment for a 2-3inch lift, with JKS Bar Pin Elimnators, and new hardware. The front suspension was redone with JKS ACOS to adjust the height to whatever your desired lift would be. I am also running JKS front sway bar disconects. The truck has an OLD Man Emu front steering stablizer.

The Jeep currently has 15x10 amercian racing wheels with 32inch tires (procomp mud terrain) The fronts where just installed two weeks ago, the rears have about 50% tread life left, mabye a bit less. I have a spare 32 inch procomp mud terrain tire if replacing a tire is ever needed. Included with the truck are a set of extended stainless brake lines (they are topnotch, cant remember the brand they are for up to a 4inch lift) and I also have the front bar pin elimantors by jks aswell. I have the stock front fender flairs, but i would recomend a bigger set from an aftermarket company.
Im pretty sure the car has a clean carfax.. not sure, if you run it send it to me please!

Or I was also looking at this one for 4000$:

FOR SALE ! 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport. 127,9xx miles. Auto w/ shift on the fly 4wd. Lifted 6.5in on 33's, off set rims, SYE, heavy duty Rubicon track bar, custom drive shaft, Bushwacker flares, new Reese hitch setup w/ drop hitch, p/w, p/l, new head unit w/ remote, very clean interior, extra matching rim, roof rack, privacy glass, quick release sway bar links for more off road flex.

All work has been done by myself, if you've got ANY questions I can certainly answer them. I've taken good care of my truck and put a lot of my own blood, sweat and MONEY into it.

*REMEMBER - Paint is easy to change ! I've done it myself a good couple times now. All you need is some spray primer and spray paint ! Customize it to your own personal liking, you don't want to keep it like this or everyone will think you're me !

Let me know what you guys think! Thanks,

Joe

Solomon7

You didn't mention price either which is a huge factor.

XJs with auto trans's have AW4 transmissions. Very stout auto tranny btw. Just keep up on changing fluif regularly.
Be sure to check the oil for "milk" in it as this could be a sign of a cracked head, somewhat common to 2000-01 XJs (google "the 0331 club").
If oil looks good, check ALL other fluids including dif oil, warm it up a WHILE then rip on it. Test kickdown/pass gear at highway speeds.

Shift in to 4 hi at speed on road then out to 2wd,
then shift to LOW (low on gravel only, trans in neutral first 0-3mph).
Give it a goose in low and turn sharply listening for any noise or banging. You should feel the wheel try to straighten against you meaning 4 is working right.

There's a way to do a self diagnostic on newer XJs using the trip meter to get codes. Google it and "self scan" both rigs.


You also need to find out what rear axles they have, EPECIALLY the one with 33s. If wither has ABS then it has a Dana 35 which is super weak and shouldn't be running 33s without a lot of work. Them both being '00s you probably will have a Chrysler 8.25 rear end which is pretty stout.

I can tell you without regearing the axles (ask about if it's been done and what ratio) larger than 31s will feel kinda sluggish without loading the motor hard.
6.5" won't get as good mileage for a DD.
The comment about paint would be a red flag for me btw. Why did it have to get paint the first time? damage hidden?


237k miles is 75% through the average 4.0 engine's life btw.
Check for rust. It kills unibodies. Check for cracks/rust in the rain gutters right above the body pillars. A sign of unibody damge starting.

One more thing: Max out flex on both sides, get out and inspect underneath before buying. Open and close rear hatch while ,flexed both ways, left and right. If it won't close be wary. It's normal for it to be a tiny bit "tight" closing though fyi.
Good luck!

gameboy234

Don't think I am going to look at the second jeep but still interested in the first and one other I found.

The prices are in there, the first one is 3500$ and the second is 4000$. I know nothing about cars let alone jeeps haha what does "milk" in the oil look like and how do i check for it? What does "Test kickdown/pass gear at highway speeds." mean? Like when it shifts?

"Shift in to 4 hi at speed on road then out to 2wd,
then shift to LOW (low on gravel only, trans in neutral first 0-3mph).
Give it a goose in low and turn sharply listening for any noise or banging. You should feel the wheel try to straighten against you meaning 4 is working right."

Do I shift from 4 hi to 2wd while moving or in neutral? And for low what do you mean in neutral for first 0-3mph? like just roll then pop it into gear??!!

When I flex the suspension what do I look for?

Also I found another jeep I am interested in.Craigslist Post was this:





Awsome lift kit perfect for these jeeps... Just installed new steering box support unit..-(The right one thats welded on and bolts thru the frame = no more steering issues ever) some dents in fender but overall really tough looking truck. Best grille guard roof rack combo for these trucks... Kid lost interest

This one is up for $2500

Solomon7

Milky oil (this is with a totally blown headgasket so any resemblance to it vs the "good" oil should be avoided. Just scroll down for img. Now, if it's got a sloight head gasket leak it won't look THAT bad, but hopefully it gives you anidea of the color to look for. the cleaner and clearer the better. If the oil looks BRAND SPANKIN NEW, be wary. They may be hiding the issue from a buyer. Don't worry, give it couple hundred miles before the "milk" makes it's appearance lol. Check for rust/metal in the antifreeze too.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/milky-oil-8118/

2wd to 4hi to 2wd is shift on the fly. It'll work at a standstill but may need a few feet for the transfer case to engage.

4low can be shifted in to stopped but seems to like a slow roll better (planetary gears IIRC) , under 3 mph. Just be sure to shift the trans in to N before shifting from 4 hi thru the transfer case's N to 4 low. zshift thru the TC's N firm and fast.
Don't stop in the TC's N for long (couldn't tell ya why but better to shift quick).
It may grind for a 1/10 of a second from N to 4 low. This is normal.

Re flexing:
Look for soft lines(brakes) that are too stretched (ideally they were lengthened or relocated with the lift).
It'll creak a lot when it flexes but horrible popping or loud "PING" sounds up front are red flags of worn components.
Take a mental before and after flex shot on both sides then compare the panels, bumpers and body lines to the original.
See if anything looks blatantly out of whack. they all seem to be a tiiiiny bit off when flexed but should need measuring devices to really detect unless the unibody is fatigued.
Open and close all doors with it flexed and make sure they don't stick horribly. A little friction is normal but too much is obvious. Check the back hatches hinges for cracking around them as well as ALL the door hinges and latches. cracks more than a millimeter mean fatigue=no bueno longterm.

Passing gear i.3. a drop from OD to 3 should happen before your foot hits the floor.

Check for cracks in the unibody frame rails where the steering box mounts. There's 3 bolts that mount it fyi. You can see them from outside in the front fenderwell for reference inside the bay.

Ummm.........oh one more thing that popped in to my noggin lol, when light on the throttle around 35 (stock tires) you should feel the torque converter lock and it'll feel like another gear shifted.
Should shift in to final OD gear (4th gear with torque converter lock up) around 45 (stock tires/gears).

Larger tires/different gears?
Here's a chart of average rpms at different gears and tires to give you an idea of what to look for. BTW this site is full of al sorts of mods and tips so worth reading from the Home page on really:
http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm

Also put the trans and transfer case in N and get under the Jeep and wiggle/turn/whack the crap out of the driveshafts. There should be almost no rotational or lateral play at the trans/TC or differential end.

Good luck! Any more question feel free to ask. I'm not an expert, but spend my off time (insomniac) reading every new thread on about 6 different Jeep/Cherokee forums nightly. Done most of my work myself, and learned something every time to make it easier for some else next time.
I'm happy to help keep these beasts on the road.

I'm probably more obsessive than most when buying an XJ, but after seeing the abuse some put them through, and how well they "clean up" for sale later I figure you can never be too careful or check enough.

FWIW depending on the lift kit and how it was done, mileage, drivetrain/engine condition, maaintenance, and how/where it was wheeled.....I really like the green one for 2500. If it's got blocks or add-a-leafs for a lift I'd bail. Blocks wrap the springs up and add a leafs sag soon.
I am kinda partial to green though lol.

LegalizeFreedom

x2

gameboy234