When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ring gear over the cross pin, or install cross pin with the ring gear installed ??
I have had to grind a gear tooth down on the high side to install the cross pin, but never had to grind anything to get the ring gear on.
Something like that, they said when you try to drop the ring gear onto the carrier (locker installed into carrier at that point), there will be a issue w/ clearance between the crosspin and ring gear.
They mentioned a "notched" crosspin would eliminate this issue, but it's easily taken care of w/ a little grinding.
What carrier, locker and r&p are you referring to that this wasn't an issue?
Personally idk yet, just bought the Aussie and haven't received it as of now.
I use to have a Samurai that I put front and rear Lock rights in, don't think there was a issue there. Those were 3.73 r&p's though, not really relevant.
Taking the ring gear off the carrier,
is usually necessary to do any service, ie:installing a lunchbox, replacing side gears and bushings.
Alright Trcm, I see what your saying. I hope your right I don't want to grind my brand new r&p.
I just did some more searching, most of it comes back to Cherokee Forum. Go figure.
Anyway I think they were referring to the fact this may be an issue if the carrier and ring gear are still in the axle.
Which is odd because the question was,"does your 4.88 r&p fit the 29 spline 8.25?, and btw I'm installing a Aussie locker to, will that work?"
So, my take on it is if you are leaving the carrier in the axle and installing the locker, if you have 4.56, 4.88 gears, you may have to do some grinding to get the crosspin into position.
So who friggin' knows, I hope there's no grinding needed if the ring gear is removed, I don't see why there would be now too!
Something like that, they said when you try to drop the ring gear onto the carrier (locker installed into carrier at that point), there will be a issue w/ clearance between the crosspin and ring gear.
They mentioned a "notched" crosspin would eliminate this issue, but it's easily taken care of w/ a little grinding.
What carrier, locker and r&p are you referring to that this wasn't an issue?
Personally idk yet, just bought the Aussie and haven't received it as of now.
I use to have a Samurai that I put front and rear Lock rights in, don't think there was a issue there. Those were 3.73 r&p's though, not really relevant.
Taking the ring gear off the carrier,
is usually necessary to do any service, ie:installing a lunchbox, replacing side gears and bushings.
So idk, I'll let you know when I install it.
I've installed 4 lunchbox lockers now, and I have yet to need to remove a ring gear.....every one was done in the vehicle.
On my Ramcharger (chrysler 9 1/4) a gear tooth had to be ground down about 30 thou so the center pin would slide in. Randy's R & P confirmed this is the case with a 4.56 or numerically higher gear set.
Don't grind on the center pin to get it in....grinding a tooth down will not affect anything, and grinding the center pin will weaken it and may not let the locker work properly. Went thru that when I paid someone to replace the case/housing of my rear axle while I was out to sea, and they ground the center pin down to get it in, instead of a making sure the ring gear was aligned correctly (with the ground down tooth lined up with the pin). The locker didn't work right due to too much clearance.
I can't see how the ring gear will hit the center pin when installing the ring gear over a carrier that already has a locker in it, but hey, maybe it's possible.......I've never tried it.
I was thinking maybe there was some confusion, as I know what I have had to do in the past.
To clear this up, If you are installing a lunchbox locker in a Chrysler 8.25 with low gears like 4.56 you will have to grind a little bit off of the ring gear tooth to get the cross pin to get past it, you can't install the locker and then put the ring gear back on like you can on the Dana 30 because the cross pin has to be out so you can install the c-clips on the axles. The lunchbox locker has no effect on the ring gear fitting on the carrier.
No,no,no I'm not talking about grinding the center pin, yeah don't want to do that.
The gear tooth is what their talking about. And it's not going to be necessary because I am going to put the Aussie in with the ring gear off.
There is some confusion, I think the tech at Yukon just wanted to be as informative as possible on the subject, which is great.
I'm glad you posted up, I was wondering why grinding anything was necessary myself.
Personally I've never installed a locker or the likes without removing the carrier and disassembling it.
I had a Honda a long time ago that I put the "phantom grip" in, it's a "lunchbox lsd", I also played with mini-spools on the samurai I owned, they were cool.
A mini spool would be great for the 8.25, idk if anyone makes one and there not to streetable obviously.
All good, I appreciate your input on my post in this thread.
No,no,no I'm not talking about grinding the center pin, yeah don't want to do that.
The gear tooth is what their talking about. And it's not going to be necessary because I am going to put the Aussie in with the ring gear off.
There is some confusion, I think the tech at Yukon just wanted to be as informative as possible on the subject, which is great.
I'm glad you posted up, I was wondering why grinding anything was necessary myself.
Personally I've never installed a locker or the likes without removing the carrier and disassembling it.
I had a Honda a long time ago that I put the "phantom grip" in, it's a "lunchbox lsd", I also played with mini-spools on the samurai I owned, they were cool.
A mini spool would be great for the 8.25, idk if anyone makes one and there not to streetable obviously.
All good, I appreciate your input on my post in this thread.
You do know the center pin is the very last thing to go in, right? Like after the carrier is in, gear mesh set and c clips on
No,no,no I'm not talking about grinding the center pin, yeah don't want to do that.
The gear tooth is what their talking about. And it's not going to be necessary because I am going to put the Aussie in with the ring gear off.
There is some confusion, I think the tech at Yukon just wanted to be as informative as possible on the subject, which is great.
I'm glad you posted up, I was wondering why grinding anything was necessary myself.
Personally I've never installed a locker or the likes without removing the carrier and disassembling it.
I had a Honda a long time ago that I put the "phantom grip" in, it's a "lunchbox lsd", I also played with mini-spools on the samurai I owned, they were cool.
A mini spool would be great for the 8.25, idk if anyone makes one and there not to streetable obviously.
All good, I appreciate your input on my post in this thread.
Did the Phantom Grip work? I bought one for an RSX type-s one time but never put it in because a, it was above my skill at the time (probably still is) and 2, I just wasn't convinced it would work.
Did the Phantom Grip work? I bought one for an RSX type-s one time but never put it in because a, it was above my skill at the time (probably still is) and 2, I just wasn't convinced it would work.
Yes, it was noticable, there was definitely a reduction of torque steer.
The car it was in almost did high 11's, I could do 12.2 or so all day long. W/ a 1.6 single cam.
I've installed 4 lunchbox lockers now, and I have yet to need to remove a ring gear.....every one was done in the vehicle.
On my Ramcharger (chrysler 9 1/4) a gear tooth had to be ground down about 30 thou so the center pin would slide in. Randy's R & P confirmed this is the case with a 4.56 or numerically higher gear set.
Don't grind on the center pin to get it in....grinding a tooth down will not affect anything, and grinding the center pin will weaken it and may not let the locker work properly. Went thru that when I paid someone to replace the case/housing of my rear axle while I was out to sea, and they ground the center pin down to get it in, instead of a making sure the ring gear was aligned correctly (with the ground down tooth lined up with the pin). The locker didn't work right due to too much clearance.
I can't see how the ring gear will hit the center pin when installing the ring gear over a carrier that already has a locker in it, but hey, maybe it's possible.......I've never tried it.
I was thinking maybe there was some confusion, as I know what I have had to do in the past.
.
I got some time to work on the 4.88 r&p and Aussie locker install on my 2000 XJ.
It appears Yukon wants the center pin ground or "notched" ie: it has to have a notch put into it the length of the pin.
After re-reading the post that's quoted, imo the problem that happened was because the notch or "flat spot" on the pin wasn't ground on perpendicular to the crosspin retaining bolt.
The .006 to .020 clearance Aussie specs., Shouldn't be affected.
I still have to get the gear on the carrier to see what makes more sense, grinding the gear or the pin. If it's just a small amount of grinding on the gear to get the pin in then that would be the best solution.
I'll post up a picture of the 4.88 on the carrier, to see how bad the clearance is.
Wanted to give anyone that followed this thread a update
It's kinda hard to see in this picture but the 4.88 for the 8.25 is definitely a "thick" gear. It's about 3/16" thicker than the factory 3.55.
Still working on a picture of the 4.88 on the carrier. The I.d. of the new gear is a very close fit to the o.d. of the carrier. So that means the bearings have to be taken off, the carrier has to be cleaned and put in the freezer for a few days. The new ring gear will go on easier that way, I could probably beat it on w/ a rubber mallet but...
02-20-2018, 06:34 PM
