Anybody running Iron Rock suspension?
 

I have a stock 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport that I would like to lift and wheel.I am looking at the 5.5" lift to run 33" tires. This will be a DD and weekend trail rig. I don't want to sacrifice ride quality. I was looking at Rubicon Express but the IRO kit seems to be a better value. Will I need to re-gear the axles? If I install 1 locker for now do I do front or rear? I know I will probably need SYE and a driveshaft. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Do some searching, there is debate on the iron rock(you decide for yourself) lockers is questionable(again do some searching and read up on what people choose the first) again gearing is questionable(read up and decide how you want to go about it)

I don't have any experience with Iron Rock but I have a lot of experience with Rubicon Express, and they are worth the money. From what I read and from the looks the Iron Rock seem to be a lesser priced and lesser quality lift. I'm not saying they are bad just you usually get what you pay for.

I have yet to buy any iron rock parts but my buddy thinks they are great and I have been checking out his new control arms and track bar and a few other pieces and they look heavy duty and well made.

I have the 4" short arm kit with their double sheer track bar. I haven't had any issues with it.

It seems like people don't like the way their long arm kits are designed, because it's held on by one main bolt I think. So depends if you're looking at the short arm or long arm. If you're looking for good ride quality upgrade the shocks in the kit, bilsteins seem to be a favorite. Also, their customer service is really good.

I run a lot of IRO parts. Excellent quality. You get more then what you pay for.

I'v had no problems with my iro long arm kit. I beat the crap out it last month at haspen acers off road parck and it held up just fine.

I have their long arms and no problems here.

You will hear alot of, "he said, she said, my uncles cousin said", but none of them ran any of the IRO products.....

Well I was helping a buddy out with installing the iron long arm kit and we had a big problem with the install. We were installing the cross member and when we went to bolt it up were it needed to be, we ran into some big clearance issues and the holes not lining up on the trans mount and we tried fitting it in every combination possible and still could get it to line up. The clear issues were with the transfer case front yoke. It was hitting the cross member badly where the mounting bolts go. The only way we could get the holes to line up and have clearance was to have the trans 3 inches off center and turning the engine. And IRO was no help in helping us with the issue.

I have IRO front coils. They go boing.

Rubicon Express rear springs on mine too. It seems to be good on both sides.

I had no front yoke clearance problems at 6"of lift. Having to shift your drive trane 3" sounds like the unibody is out of square

for 33s its highly recommended that you regear. 4.56s is what most people run for a 4.0l auto and 33s. its what ill be running. as far as locking most will lock the front with a lunch box style locker since its not really noticable on the road. the locker wont engage unless it has tourque from the drive shaft applied. LOKKA lockers are pretty good and are a great price

i cant say much about IRO other than their double sheer track bar is pure beef, as well as there heavy duty u bolt plates

Unibody was straight and everything was lined up perfectly before install but the cross member just didn't have the clearance for the yoke unless we were to cut up the cross member, which we didn't want to do. I don't know what my buddy ended up doing with the kit, I think its still just sitting in his garage collecting dust.

Thats weird, I didnt have any issues with my install. On the trans, did it have the 4 bolts offset to one side or in center? That would have been the 3" difference of the holes lining up in the cross member.

I can't remember but we had the cross member facing the correct way, and we tried the trans mount in both possible ways, one was 3in off and the other way would make the yoke hit by a good amount.