Another “what else do I need for my 3.5” super ride” thread
 

I’ve been doing a lot of research on this and have seen a LOT of different answers on the subject, hence why I am making yet I other thread on this subject. I am getting very close to having the funds for a 3.5” Rubicon Express Super Ride lift kit with monotube shocks.

I have also budgeted for the following:

-Adjustable track bar
-1” T-case drop
-3/4” coil spacers

I’m opting for the super ride over the super flex for a few reasons. This is my fist Jeep, I don’t have any off-roading experience so I won’t be doing anything crazy, and this will be my first lift kit install (with the help of a mechanic friend who has installed a couple). And price.

It is a 2000 Cherokee sport, 2 door manual transmission with the Chrysler 8.25 rear axle.

I don’t have it in the budget for a SYE and new drive shaft right now. Being a 2000, will I be running into any big issues by waiting on this?

Are there any differences I should be aware of for a 2 dr. vs 4 dr? Or Manual vs Auto?

And lastly, can I relocate my front brake lines for this lift? From what I’ve seen, a set of extended front brake lines is around $80, which I’d rather not spend if I don’t have to.

I’m shooting for next month. I bought some sea foam deep creep and will be spraying the bolts down every few days until install

Great kit and will ride well on the road.
1: Install the lift kit without the t-case drop and drive around to determine if you need one. Every Jeep is different and some don't need them at that height (though typically newer years are more prone to vibes). A t-case drop kit will be fine if you're not going taller and don't plan on doing crazy wheeling.
2: No difference between 2 door or 4 doors/aw4 (auto) or ax15 (manual) for lift kits
3: Yes you can, unbolt the hardline from the inner wheel well, carefully straighten out the line to sit lower, drill a new mounting hole and done.

Best advice is to start spraying every bolt with liquid wrench (proven better than PB blaster and most other brands) 2-3 times a day for at least a week prior to the lift install. Research typical bolts that break and how to fix them.

Like ^^ said, install the lift and see if you'll need the t-case drop. You might get lucky and not need it after all, but if you could spend a little more money, you could also do a hack-n-tap SYE with a front rebuilt driveshaft for not a lot more (and way cheaper than a new driveshaft). When we did my brothers 3.5" lift, I noticed more problems with the rear center brakeline than either of the front lines. We were almost pulling the line taught just to get the new leafs under his, so you may want to look into that. Since money is an issue, really try not to go down the "well while I'm in there!" line of thought, as that's my biggest downfall haha. Depending on where you live, you should definitely be soaking those bolts beforehand, here in the midwest I've just assumed I'm going to snap all 4 shock bolts when I do mine. Best of luck!

Thanks guys, very helpful info. I’ll hold off on the t-case drop for now and see how it rides and plan on just relocating the front brakes. The kit comes with an extended stainless rear brake line which is nice. I’ll definitely look into getting some replacement bolts ahead of time for the shocks, all of my suspension is original as far as I can tell so I want to be prepared for the worst. I’m in Indiana btw, so this baby has definitely seen some salt haha

I drilled some little holes in the leaf spring/shackle bolt pockets so I could shove the tube of a PB blaster can in there and get the nut soaked.

Buy some new coil spring insulators for the front.

In all honesty you will need to prepare to buy and install an SYE. It doesn't really matter what we say we all know you're going to put this lift on and damn right you should. But let's be realistic. You know that these lifts go over 3.5... mine netted 4.5 in the rear. I do not have a manual nor did I have a 8.25 originally but I 100% needed a tcase drop immediately after putting the lift on. As you're in the 2000 generation you're just more susceptible to the aggressive angles. Another thing to consider is that you probably have a low pinion D30 in the front, this too could cause issues, and without adjustable control arms, drop brackets (4.5" lift min requirement), or a HP D30, you may run into issues with the front end as well. When looking for an SYE just get a junkyard or part out front driveshaft and stick it in the rear, no need for a $200 ds. You don't need extended front brake lines unless you're wheeling, you can also just move the brake lines... see bleepinjeeps rough country install vid he does this i believe.

Other than that, when you do the tcase drop watch the clutch fan it may rub, min rubbed on the ac high pressure line. If I did it again I would get the super flex as I believe it had the adjustable CA's. SO MUCH EASIER to deal with this when you're doing the lift. Also, figure out your bump stops now, I regret not doing this. Consider coil spacers to even out the inevitable bowing. I bought .75" ones and I haven't installed yet because it's a PITA. Good luck

Let's recap.

SYE - yes
DS - Junkyard
Tcase - drop it like it's hot
Brake lines - don't worry
Bump stops - do it

Awesome advice. The rubicon transfer case drop is only like $20 so I’ll probably just go ahead and order it. I’ll also get bump stops as mine are pretty chewed up. As far as the SYE, I’m still going to hold off... for now. The XJ is a toy for me, so if it’s un-driveable for a couple months while I save for a SYE, I can still get around in my Honda if I have to. I’m just trying not to spend so much all at once.

That is probably the best thing, being able to have a car to use while you are working. Rushing to do a lift over a weekend can sometimes lead to problems. (I know it shouldn't take more than a weekend, but as someone who seems to run into snags, budget more time than you think you need.)

I agree with the idea of not going crazy with "while i am here" but if you notice something that is close to being worn out, its better to replace it than have to do the job twice.

I know you are on a budget, but extended brake lines may not be a bad idea if you can swing it. I think quadratec makes a good set, when I upgrade mine I will be getting them.

To add to that ^^, I've heard you can use longer than stock front rubber hoses off (i think) a 90's dakota, and a rear center off of (again I think) a chevy 1500 pickup to give you 4-6" longer brake lines. I picked all three up at my local napa for around 50 bucks brand new. When I get around to putting my lift on, I'm gonna put part #'s in my build thread, I'll be sure to update and let you know. I've also heard that YJ brake lines could be used to the same affect, but are closer to 3" longer.

Hearing that you have another vehicle to drive, I agree that's a huge plus to take your time and not try and hobble things together to get it done in a weekend

Nice! Yeah, I don't mean to be dramatic, you could drive around with the TC drop and you can even drive around without one, nobody is stopping you. Idk if I would say it's "undriveable" with driveline vibrations. After you go through this experience with your XJ and spend three days beating the **** out of each other those vibes are going to reverberate deep in your soul. At least that's how it was for me. I think I had the tcase drop in for 5 months. GL and keep us updated! PS those crossmember bolts/studs are no joke either, spray just like every other bolt and I would heat, mine snapped.

Hey man, the truth ain’t always what you want to hear, but I came looking for answers and I appreciate everyone’s advice based on their experience! I feel a lot more prepared now. I’ll be ordering the kit this Friday and hopefully installing it the first or second week of August. I’ll definitely be sure to share my experience in this thread and I’ll also get a build thread going here soon.

I’m considering Bilstein shocks instead of the RE monotubes that come with the kit. If I go that route, exactly which ones should I get? I’m assuming I should go with the ones made for a 4” lift?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/16070_202_14.htm

Yes but If you're not going to improve your control arm angles in the front (Control arm drop brackets or longarms) or relocate your shackles in the rear It's really not going to matter what shocks you have in there. Without any significant weight added or those things I iust mentioned you're in for a bit of a bumpy ride TBH.. Also FYI the monotubes sold with the kit are made by Bilstein.

Pulled the trigger!

Here is a list of everything I ordered:

-RE 3.5” Super Ride lift kit with monotube shocks and full leaf springs for the Chrysler 8.25
-RE 3/4” coil spring spacers
-RE 1” transfer case lowering kit
-New bump stops
-Iron Rock Off-road adjustable double shear track bar kit

Welcome to the sickness. May God have mercy on your soul