Another Dumb Alignment Thread
#1
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Another Dumb Alignment Thread
Figured I'd ask this here instead of on JF. '00 XJ, 6.5" IRO Adjustable Arm Lift, RC track bar.
I have attempted to get this thing aligned twice, not too keen on DIY alignments, but I may have to at this point, and both times the tech told me I need a longer drag link sleeve. SFAFGAOGHASOG, no, I don't, they're just idiots.
Have the adjustable arms on now, set to: 17.25" on the lowers and just over 15" on the uppers.
My steering wheel is still like this after the "alignment" they did yesterday.
I do get slight wobble between 45-50mph, but I am assuming it's because my draglink and track bar aren't perfectly parallel, right now I'm more concerned with a straight steering wheel.
Any help guys?
I have attempted to get this thing aligned twice, not too keen on DIY alignments, but I may have to at this point, and both times the tech told me I need a longer drag link sleeve. SFAFGAOGHASOG, no, I don't, they're just idiots.
Have the adjustable arms on now, set to: 17.25" on the lowers and just over 15" on the uppers.
My steering wheel is still like this after the "alignment" they did yesterday.
I do get slight wobble between 45-50mph, but I am assuming it's because my draglink and track bar aren't perfectly parallel, right now I'm more concerned with a straight steering wheel.
Any help guys?
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If you want a straight steering wheel then just loosen your drag link sleeve (with the wheels pointed straight) and turn it till your steering wheel is straight.
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I am aware of this. I will have to take a better look when I get home from work today, but as far as I could tell when I looked at her on the rack yesterday, it's almost out of adjustment, which is what confuses me.
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Absolutely not, just don't feel like getting treated like an idiot on CF because I have 2 posts, lol. I tend to stay on JF, but for something like this I figured you guys would know better.
Also, if the sleeve is almost out of adjustment, what do you recommend at that point?
Also, if the sleeve is almost out of adjustment, what do you recommend at that point?
#7
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I'd start by adjusting the Caster up to at least ~6*.
For not being too keen on DIY alignments yours sure is way off.
I do better than that with a tape measure, a $2 angle finder and my 8 year old daughters help...
6"s is pushing the limits of the stock steering. You need to upgrade and quit fooling around with stock stuff on a tall lift.
Randomly smacking keys gains respect?
For not being too keen on DIY alignments yours sure is way off.
I do better than that with a tape measure, a $2 angle finder and my 8 year old daughters help...
6"s is pushing the limits of the stock steering. You need to upgrade and quit fooling around with stock stuff on a tall lift.
Randomly smacking keys gains respect?
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I'd start by adjusting the Caster up to at least ~6*.
For not being too keen on DIY alignments yours sure is way off.
I do better than that with a tape measure, a $2 angle finder and my 8 year old daughters help...
6"s is pushing the limits of the stock steering. You need to upgrade and quit fooling around with stock stuff on a tall lift.
Randomly smacking keys gains respect?
For not being too keen on DIY alignments yours sure is way off.
I do better than that with a tape measure, a $2 angle finder and my 8 year old daughters help...
6"s is pushing the limits of the stock steering. You need to upgrade and quit fooling around with stock stuff on a tall lift.
Randomly smacking keys gains respect?
I personally know guys that have the same lift on adjustables and run stock steering, as well as the fact that IRO guys did for a little while too.
Over-knuckle steering is on the books, however at the moment I don't have the money to purchase it.
Never said that, however, don't assume because I have few posts that I don't know what's going on, I am completely aware that over-knuckle or 1ton steering is an upgrade I need to purchase in the near future, I was merely looking for advice or suggestions on how I could adjust it if my sleeve is like it appears to be, almost out of adjustment.
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I've came across this same problem myself. Basically whats happened is you've taken your jeep to an alignment shop that has no damn clue of what they are doing, just as i did. Most shops that are used to working on cars will get things close to where they're supposed to be, which is fine on a car.. but on our lifted vehicles the tolerance they use for a car will not work.. You're better off doing an at home alignment yourself then taking your jeep back to that shop.
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I've came across this same problem myself. Basically whats happened is you've taken your jeep to an alignment shop that has no damn clue of what they are doing, just as i did. Most shops that are used to working on cars will get things close to where they're supposed to be, which is fine on a car.. but on our lifted vehicles the tolerance they use for a car will not work.. You're better off doing an at home alignment yourself then taking your jeep back to that shop.
Also I am completely aware of how off the caster is, however my front DS is currently disconnected so I am not nearly as concerned about that. Once I have OTK steering I will adjust again it accordingly.
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Well..some of your wobble is probably from that caster..
Just get it toed in tiny bit, and then finish off by adjusting your drag-link to center your steering wheel.
Done.
Just get it toed in tiny bit, and then finish off by adjusting your drag-link to center your steering wheel.
Done.
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Yeah, hence why I'm just going to have to deal with doing my own alignment, anyways, what sort of numbers should I be looking at for the adjustments?
Also I am completely aware of how off the caster is, however my front DS is currently disconnected so I am not nearly as concerned about that. Once I have OTK steering I will adjust again it accordingly.
Also I am completely aware of how off the caster is, however my front DS is currently disconnected so I am not nearly as concerned about that. Once I have OTK steering I will adjust again it accordingly.
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Define: "tiny bit" of toe adjustment, lol.
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Ok I'm an alignment tech. You need to first get your caster up to about 6 on the right and 6.25-6.5 on the left to get a lead to correct for road crown. Then you can't do anything about camber. But it looks pretty good next need to set toe to +.1 on both sides. Or atleast use a tape measure and measure from center of the tread of both tires across and compair to the measure of c2c of the back side of the frot tires once that's set! Your toe is very close. Then adjust the track rod to center the wheel. Should get your very close
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Ok I'm an alignment tech. You need to first get your caster up to about 6 on the right and 6.25-6.5 on the left to get a lead to correct for road crown. Then you can't do anything about camber. But it looks pretty good next need to set toe to +.1 on both sides. Or atleast use a tape measure and measure from center of the tread of both tires across and compair to the measure of c2c of the back side of the frot tires once that's set! Your toe is very close. Then adjust the track rod to center the wheel. Should get your very close
Which would you recommend to adjust the caster, pushing the UCAs out or pulling the LCAs in, or a little of each? I am pretty sure the passenger side is so far off because my friend and I had to compensate for a bad/weak LCA mount on that side until I got the new ones welded on, as such my UCA on the right side it expanded out much further.
I'd rather not pull the LCAs in because I am pretty sure my wheelbase measure is 100.5" right now, not the 101" it should be.