Alternator upgrade that doesn't require grinding?
#1
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Alternator upgrade that doesn't require grinding?
Any suggestions? I currently live in apartments so I am limited with the type of work I can do. Are there any aftermarket options out there that will be an upgrade in Alternator power that don't require grinding the bracket/block to install?
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Mean Green will build you an alternator but they aren't that cheap.
I think there are some on eBay as well. My Alternator shop rebuilt my ZJ 136 amp alternator to somewhere around 150 amps (re-wound), not sure what the factory one is capable of though
I think there are some on eBay as well. My Alternator shop rebuilt my ZJ 136 amp alternator to somewhere around 150 amps (re-wound), not sure what the factory one is capable of though
#4
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
You can try what I am going to do. We have a guy in my area. He is the go to guy for electrical and driveshaft work. Awhile back I grabbed a alternator out of the boneyard from an '00, which is what mine is, and brought it to him. Asked if he could rebuild it and up the amps. Looking at it and poking around on his computer he said he could and maybe get it up to as much as 150 amps. Said it would run about $150. My thinking is do that, upgrade my battery cables, do the headlight harness upgrade, and set up a auxiliary fuse box. Most likely with a circuit breaker inline before the fuse box. I am just waiting till I get the alternator rebuilt. Hopefully he can test it after he is done to see what the actually amp output is. So then I can decide if I need 4 gauge or 2 gauge battery cables. My understanding is that 4 gauge is OK up to 150 amps. Anything over that you should use 2 gauge. I would just use the 2 gauge, it is not the extra money that is stopping me, but if I can use the 4 gauge probably be a little easier to route the cables. Would like to end up with a cleaner looking job. Probably would be easier to grind down the brackets and do the ZJ 136 amp upgrade but I want a straight bolt in.
#7
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L6
Wouldn't the 1997-1998 XJ 136 amp application be a direct bolt-in, except for possibly a minor wiring modification depending on the model it's going into? I see that this application is listed for the ZJ and Dakota also though, so maybe not?
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#8
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i picked up one of those 250 amp ebay ones and so far it works pretty good. its about the same size as stock (perhaps slightly larger) and the pulley is smaller. it fit no problem or modifications.
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
The only difference usually tends to be the voltage regulator having screw terminals instead of a plug; it's easy enough to cut off and crimp some ring terminal leads on the wires. Mine also had 1 more rib on the pulley, but the belt doesn't know the difference.
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