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Old 09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
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Old 02-14-2018, 10:59 AM
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Whose control arms would you go with ? Do you really need adjustables top and bottom or just bottoms ?
Old 02-14-2018, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey17
Whose control arms would you go with ? Do you really need adjustables top and bottom or just bottoms ?
I have cav fab 3 link long arms, but their short arms look good if you're set on getting short arms. You definitely want both adjustable.
Old 02-14-2018, 11:53 AM
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I've been happy with Iron Rock Offroad control arms in the past.

Ironman4x4 has an excellent reputation on this site, but I have no personal experience with them.

Metalcloak is more expensive, but you get aluminum arms with the best bushings on the market.

Those are just a few noteworthy options
Old 02-14-2018, 03:10 PM
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For short arms, these look good for the price. Anybody know if these are any good? They talk a good game, haha.

http://www.rocky-road.com/xj-control-arms.html
Old 02-14-2018, 03:17 PM
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Do some research on them. They have great reviews from the people who actually receive the parts they pay for, but everyone else just wonders where their money went
Old 02-14-2018, 03:52 PM
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Yeah, I've googled them. Most of the posts are around 4 years old though. Seems like anyone who's bought their control arms were pretty happy with them. Still, I'd proceed with caution. Most of the complaints were with customer service aspects and not specifically about the quality. $289 + shipping does sound like a sweet deal though for adjustable UCA's and LCA's.
Old 02-14-2018, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 00jcsMo
Yeah, I've googled them. Most of the posts are around 4 years old though. Seems like anyone who's bought their control arms were pretty happy with them. Still, I'd proceed with caution. Most of the complaints were with customer service aspects and not specifically about the quality. $289 + shipping does sound like a sweet deal though for adjustable UCA's and LCA's.
rocky road is sketchy. My buddy received his budget boost this past december and he ordered in September!!!
Old 02-14-2018, 08:11 PM
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Hey guys I have a quick question I'm sure you guys can answer. I have a 99 Cherokee Sport Non 4x4 (I know I suck lol) I bought it cause those engines are solid and it only had 60,000 miles on it, It's my daily.

So it has a 3 inch Spacer and Shackle "Lift".. Definitely want to replace that with a proper 2-3 inch suspension soon.. Any recommendations?

My main question is how big of tires can I go without having to trim fenders?. It's just a street jeep so I'm not worried about flexing while going off-road, just basic driving and cornering.

Could I go with 31x10.5? Are 10.5's going to be too wide? Or should I stick with something like 30x9.5... I've got 15x8 Rims with 235/75/15's right now

I appreciate all the help

Last edited by RedEyeJedi; 02-14-2018 at 08:15 PM.
Old 02-14-2018, 08:42 PM
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What steering setup would you all go with for 4.5 or 5.5 lift? I would like to buy a complete set up from one place for a reasonable price .
Old 02-14-2018, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey17
What steering setup would you all go with for 4.5 or 5.5 lift? I would like to buy a complete set up from one place for a reasonable price .
Cav fab has a good kit, if you're okay with heim joints. I've bashed mine a bit and it's held up. I do recommend getting the over the axle track bar with it though. You'll need a new trackbar at that height anyway and this will help all of the steering geometry
Old 02-15-2018, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by RedEyeJedi
Hey guys I have a quick question I'm sure you guys can answer. I have a 99 Cherokee Sport Non 4x4 (I know I suck lol) I bought it cause those engines are solid and it only had 60,000 miles on it, It's my daily.

So it has a 3 inch Spacer and Shackle "Lift".. Definitely want to replace that with a proper 2-3 inch suspension soon.. Any recommendations?

My main question is how big of tires can I go without having to trim fenders?. It's just a street jeep so I'm not worried about flexing while going off-road, just basic driving and cornering.

Could I go with 31x10.5? Are 10.5's going to be too wide? Or should I stick with something like 30x9.5... I've got 15x8 Rims with 235/75/15's right now

I appreciate all the help

This would be the cheapest and in my opinion the best option. 1.75 - 2" lift with new coil springs, leaf packs, and shocks. You would have to ditch the lift shackles though.


Originally Posted by EZEARL
Read this and see what you think(came from here):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...cm_cr_asin_lnk


This is review is meant as a informative guide and counter-poise to anyone considering this particular part. The CC782 coils are meant as a heavy duty replacement for Cherokees with the 4.0L engine ...primarily Cherokee XJ's (they will work in ZJ's with the 4.0L) ...so you should ignore - absolutely and completely ignore - ANY review where there's no mention of the engine displacement of the vehicle they were installed in.

The CC782's are actually THE replacement for Cherokee XJ's with the Upcountry option (or even if you want to upgrade your suspension **to** the Upcountry option; you will also need the Crown Automotive 4886186AA Leaf Spring Assembly). As a commenter to the "other" negative review mentioned, Moog is a quality aftermarket (and OEM as far as that goes) supplier of replacement parts, with a well deserved reputation in the Jeep community for producing great products. (Just read the Cherokee forums.)

I replaced the worn out coils (and leafs and shocks) in my 1996 Cherokee XJ Sport a few weeks ago; with 150K on the odometer, the original suspension was almost completely worn out (although the front & rear bushings on the rear leafs were still good, I did replace those too, with poly bushings, entirely for ease-of-installation reasons). Based on extensive research I did pre- the purchase, I finally spec'd the Moogs as the coils most likely to duplicate the factory Upcountry option (which I will detail later in this review).

I was not disappointed. Using the factory method of measuring lift (which is done under load: i.e., with the full weight of the vehicle on the tires, and measuring from top-of-axle-to-frame), the Moogs gave exactly one inch of lift over stock. Factory height should be 6.75 inches +/- 0.5 inch, and my measured height was 7.75 inches; this is also the exact Upcountry option factory height. Do note that my measurement includes a Warn Trans4mer 60766 Grille Guard and Warn 39653 Brush Guards, which adds about 70 plus pounds to the front moment arm ...which is a round-about way of intimating that if you do NOT have a rather heavy brush guard hanging off the front end, your height will likely be 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher than mine.

Ride quality is entirely subjective: a kind of "one man's ceiling is another man's floor" sort of thing. That said: the ride is quite firm, turns are absolutely flat & controlled, and there's no way that anyone could interpret the above combination of coils & leafs as "wallowing" lol. Coupled to heavy duty shocks (I used a set of Tenneco monotube shocks that are OE spec'd for Jeep JK Rubicons, modified suitably to fit my XJ), I have no complaints.

---------
UPCOUNTRY OPTION
---------
If you would like to duplicate the factory Upcountry option in its more important parts (i.e., the suspension) in your Cherokee XJ 1991-1996 (and probably earlier and later years), you can purchase everything here at Amazon. You will need the following:

Moog CC782 coil springs (sold by the pair) - .Moog CC782 Variable Rate Coil Spring
Crown 4886186AA leaf springs (sold each, so order two) - . Crown Automotive 4886186AA Leaf Spring Assembly; For Use w/LT/ZGW/ZVW; Heavy Duty; 4 Leaf;
Zone 2100J 0.75 inch spacers (the Crowns have a little too much lift: these restore the correct front-to-rear ratio) - . Zone Offroad Coil Spring Spacers 3/4" (pair)
Monroe Sensa Trac 37083 front shocks (adequate and a good value, order two) - . Monroe 37083 Sensa-Trac Light Truck Shock Absorber
Monroe Sensa Trac 37027 rear shocks (as above, order two) - . Monroe 37027 Sensa-Trac Light Truck Shock Absorber
Energy Suspension 22109B rear polyurethane bushings (easier to install, GREASE POLY's THOROUGHLY!!!) - . Rear Leaf Spring Bushing Set Black 1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ # 22109G

...and there you have it. YMMV, but on my 1996 Cherokee XJ Sport, the replacement parts above (except shocks: but I would have used those; I just got a great deal on the monotubes) gave me the equivalent of a 1.75 inch lift, and a brand new HD suspension at a bargain price. If you're reasonably handy with tools, you will save a bundle of money, and be inordinately pleased with the final result.
Anything beyond this is going to get expensive fast.

You should be fine with 31x10.5, but honestly I'm not 100% sure. They might run into the lower control arms. Maybe someone else could provide some input there.

Last edited by craigjacob1; 02-15-2018 at 07:48 AM.
Old 02-15-2018, 08:10 AM
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Quick figuring will get you the coil springs,spacers,leaf springs,bushings,and u-bolts for ~$370.

May want new bumpstops. You need shackles. Maybe shocks if yours are shot? Also leaf spring bolts if you can't use yours.

As far as the tires go 31's on your 15x8 rims it would depend on the backspace of the rims. And then it still may be close.

Here are a couple XJ's with these components. The lift is known as the "Up Country". Jeep at one time offered it as a suspension option.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/ra...3/#post3460210
Old 02-15-2018, 11:10 AM
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Hi again, Back to this vibration issue again...Low rumble vibration at 25 MPH --Has a 3-1/2" Tuff Country lift--Transfer case was dropped at the same time.... I really dont want to go to the expense of an SYE kit...
Do I have any other options ? I'm concerned about what damage could be done if I dont figure this out...
Old 02-15-2018, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Ozalid
Hi again, Back to this vibration issue again...Low rumble vibration at 25 MPH --Has a 3-1/2" Tuff Country lift--Transfer case was dropped at the same time.... I really dont want to go to the expense of an SYE kit...
Do I have any other options ? I'm concerned about what damage could be done if I dont figure this out...
I would ask you these questions and if you already stated above please disregard my lack of knowing I just didn't go back and read your post from teh begining to the end.

Was the vibration evident before the lift?

Did you do the lift yourself?

Did a shop do the lift?

Was the vehicle purchased with the lift already?

If you did this lift yourself did you purhcase all new parts and were the bolts all torqued down to correct specs?

Are you sure that your transfer case drop is done correctly? I ask this becuase I noticed that when I put my cross member in for my Rough Country long arm kit the transmission/muffler mounting bracket would catch on the upper portion of my crossmember which prevented it from dropping down and seating in the correct location.

Transmission mount is it in good shape and not damaged?

Are you even sure the vibration is coming from the driveline and not something else?
Old 02-15-2018, 01:41 PM
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By the way I had to grind down the bracket to allow my transfercase/transmission to drop into cross member so I could bolt it to the crossmember. Before I did that the 4 bolts attached to the trans mount that you attach to the cross member were still too far up above crossmember and I was unable to put a nut on the end of the studs let alone tighten it down. Little trimming fixed it just sucked because I had to drop the crossmemer again to do it.


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