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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 59
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Since I've finished all the required maintenance my '99 Sport needed, I came across one of those deals you can't pass up.
30x9.50x15's Pathfinder Sport S A/T's on really nice Canyon wheels. The tires only have maybe 2,000 miles on them, if that.
So those are on now and with the new Monroe gas shocks it's really smooth.
No rubbing. At least not on the street. I haven't had a chance to test it off road.
I just have this gut feeling that it might rub once it starts flexing some.
Then I get this idea. Add 1 ~ 2" shackles and the same for coil spacers in front.
This is where I humbly ask for opinions.
First: How much lift?
Second: From which manufacturer?
This is still my 99% daily driver.
Thanks in advance.
30x9.50x15's Pathfinder Sport S A/T's on really nice Canyon wheels. The tires only have maybe 2,000 miles on them, if that.
So those are on now and with the new Monroe gas shocks it's really smooth.
No rubbing. At least not on the street. I haven't had a chance to test it off road.
I just have this gut feeling that it might rub once it starts flexing some.
Then I get this idea. Add 1 ~ 2" shackles and the same for coil spacers in front.
This is where I humbly ask for opinions.
First: How much lift?
Second: From which manufacturer?
This is still my 99% daily driver.
Thanks in advance.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Northern New Mexico
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
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6 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Since I've finished all the required maintenance my '99 Sport needed, I came across one of those deals you can't pass up.
30x9.50x15's Pathfinder Sport S A/T's on really nice Canyon wheels. The tires only have maybe 2,000 miles on them, if that.
So those are on now and with the new Monroe gas shocks it's really smooth.
No rubbing. At least not on the street. I haven't had a chance to test it off road.
I just have this gut feeling that it might rub once it starts flexing some.
Then I get this idea. Add 1 ~ 2" shackles and the same for coil spacers in front.
This is where I humbly ask for opinions.
First: How much lift?
Second: From which manufacturer?
This is still my 99% daily driver.
Thanks in advance.
30x9.50x15's Pathfinder Sport S A/T's on really nice Canyon wheels. The tires only have maybe 2,000 miles on them, if that.
So those are on now and with the new Monroe gas shocks it's really smooth.
No rubbing. At least not on the street. I haven't had a chance to test it off road.
I just have this gut feeling that it might rub once it starts flexing some.
Then I get this idea. Add 1 ~ 2" shackles and the same for coil spacers in front.
This is where I humbly ask for opinions.
First: How much lift?
Second: From which manufacturer?
This is still my 99% daily driver.
Thanks in advance.
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 622
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
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7 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 5.2
Someone has a set of shocks for a JK and I've done some reading that says they may or may not work.
I plan to put a 4-4.5" lift probably closer to the 4.5" area. These are the rears the guy has for sale:
https://www.extremeterrain.com/bilst...-33186887.html
They are 16.96" collapsed and 27.36" extended
If you look at this site https://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/bi...t-p-48701.html you will see the rears are 14.88" collapsed and 23.84" extended
Difference of 2" collapsed and 3.5" extended
With the difference in height I think this should be acceptable?
I plan to put a 4-4.5" lift probably closer to the 4.5" area. These are the rears the guy has for sale:
https://www.extremeterrain.com/bilst...-33186887.html
They are 16.96" collapsed and 27.36" extended
If you look at this site https://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/bi...t-p-48701.html you will see the rears are 14.88" collapsed and 23.84" extended
Difference of 2" collapsed and 3.5" extended
With the difference in height I think this should be acceptable?
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
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3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Stock JK shocks are good for 1-2" of lift in an XJ. Those should work for you based on their advertised height
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5,920
Likes: 0
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165 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by firebane
Someone has a set of shocks for a JK and I've done some reading that says they may or may not work.
I plan to put a 4-4.5" lift probably closer to the 4.5" area. These are the rears the guy has for sale:
https://www.extremeterrain.com/bilst...-33186887.html
They are 16.96" collapsed and 27.36" extended
If you look at this site https://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/bi...t-p-48701.html you will see the rears are 14.88" collapsed and 23.84" extended
Difference of 2" collapsed and 3.5" extended
With the difference in height I think this should be acceptable?
I plan to put a 4-4.5" lift probably closer to the 4.5" area. These are the rears the guy has for sale:
https://www.extremeterrain.com/bilst...-33186887.html
They are 16.96" collapsed and 27.36" extended
If you look at this site https://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/bi...t-p-48701.html you will see the rears are 14.88" collapsed and 23.84" extended
Difference of 2" collapsed and 3.5" extended
With the difference in height I think this should be acceptable?
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 622
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
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7 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 5.2
I have ones that are 15.91" collapsed and 25.93" extended. These are advertised to work with a 6" lift on a Cherokee. I'm around 5-5.5" and use almost the full shock. You might could run them, but you will definitely need to bump stop to make sure you don't bottom the shocks out. I personally wouldn't put that long of a shock on my Cherokee at that height without mounting it differently than stock. It could work, but I can't say for certain one way or another. That's a lot of shock for the size of lift though.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5,920
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165 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by firebane
For the price at $100 (includes fronts) I would be willing to wager on and if bump stops would be required well that is simple enough.
Junior Member
Those all seem pretty good prices I think...didn't realize you were in Washington until now I also didn't pay close attention to your name PNW in it. That of course could mean Oregon because your searching in both areas, but still I didn't look. Where are you located exactly?
I'm about 40 mins north of Portland in Washington
Junior Member
OK so I am heading down to Lebanon for me to go pick up the Chrysler 8.25 for $90. Just wondering, is there anyway I could swap out my brake drums and pads and wheel bearings from my Dana 35 to be the 8.25
Junior Member
Also I contacted a salvage yard in Portland that has tonnnns of xj parts and they told me their 8.25 driveshafts would cost around 65 bucks. Is that a good deal and a smart choice to get the matching shaft with the new rear end
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5,920
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Received 190 Likes
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165 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
Also I contacted a salvage yard in Portland that has tonnnns of xj parts and they told me their 8.25 driveshafts would cost around 65 bucks. Is that a good deal and a smart choice to get the matching shaft with the new rear end
Junior Member
I don't know about prices up there, but driveshafts here are $27 + tax and if you're at anything over stock height you're probably fine. You are talking about driveshafts and not axleshafts, correct? Also, the axle tubes are a different size so bearings are a definite no, not sure on the drums. If you weren't asked what rear axle you have at the parts store when you bought the brakes I'd assume they're the same. Could always hold it up to one another and see if they look the same whenever you have both axles.
Yes I was talking about the drive shaft not axle shaft. The one that connects to the diff and the body. So should I not worry about the drive shaft? I may put the rear axle on before I lift it depending on what lift I go for so I may be at stock height on the c8.25 for a month or so. I may also wait to install everything all at once. Shoot while I'm busy asking questions, I guess I have another one. It's brake related not lift but it's still something on my mind. So on my jeep the way it is right now, I don't have a functioning e brake. I can lift the handle and the light on my dash comes on but it doesn't click upward or anything the handle is just sitting in there freely. Will this have any affect on installing a rear axle? Any advice? If this isn't an okay question to ask on this thread then by all means, please send me to another related thread so I can get some of this answered. Thanks!
CF Veteran
Yes I was talking about the drive shaft not axle shaft. The one that connects to the diff and the body. So should I not worry about the drive shaft? I may put the rear axle on before I lift it depending on what lift I go for so I may be at stock height on the c8.25 for a month or so. I may also wait to install everything all at once. Shoot while I'm busy asking questions, I guess I have another one. It's brake related not lift but it's still something on my mind. So on my jeep the way it is right now, I don't have a functioning e brake. I can lift the handle and the light on my dash comes on but it doesn't click upward or anything the handle is just sitting in there freely. Will this have any affect on installing a rear axle? Any advice? If this isn't an okay question to ask on this thread then by all means, please send me to another related thread so I can get some of this answered. Thanks!
Junior Member
hmm so you think it would be within the drums itself. I thought it would be something in the Middle console or something since the e brake lever itself feels like it's just sitting in its slot and doesn't crank upward. It's like whatever holds it up in the Middle console fell through. Also I would hope it wouldn't be my brake drums since I just had them all done at a shop like a month and a half ago. But that's for the advice I'll look into it