Adjustable Track Bar For 3" Lift
I just installed a 3" RC lift on my 1998 XJ and I'm running 31" tires. In the front I've installed the coils, shocks and LCA's and new leafs in the rear. Anyway, after the install I took it in for a wheel alignment. These are my results:
Camber Caster Toe L Front -0.3 12.50 0.02 R Front -0.75 11.75 0.02 The tech advised me to install an adjustable track bar, this is my first time doing suspension work and some expert advice would be appreciated. What do you guys recommend for my next step? |
TB is a must.
JKS is good. |
If I had it to do over again I would just cut the factory track bar and extend it with a thick-walled sleeve welded over the outside. Cut the ends of the sleeve at 45* and punch a couple holes for rosette welds...
Instead, I bought the RC 1.25" DOM track bar with rubber on one end and heim on the other. I had to shorten and re-drill the mounting bracket to make it work with the 3" lift. Now I'm down to 1" so I gotta modify it again. Wishing I could re-install the OEM bar but noooo....I hogged the mounting hole on the axle to 7/16" to install the RC bar, and OEM bar's bushing has a 10mm ID. So no going back... |
Go with an IRO adjustable trac bar.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10215.html. Not the cheapest but extremely tough, and we'll built. Just remeber to put some thread locker on all of the bolts or you Will have to keep tightening them.... I would suggest the red thread locker for them as they mite come loose while wheeling if you dont. I learned from experience.... had my trac bar hanging almost to the ground when I was out in the mountains wheeling. |
For the OP...
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...t.-TJ-MJ-XJ-ZJ
Originally Posted by Jesus M
(Post 3166910)
If I had it to do over again I would just cut the factory track bar and extend it with a thick-walled sleeve welded over the outside. Cut the ends of the sleeve at 45* and punch a couple holes for rosette welds...
Instead, I bought the RC 1.25" DOM track bar with rubber on one end and heim on the other. I had to shorten and re-drill the mounting bracket to make it work with the 3" lift. Now I'm down to 1" so I gotta modify it again. Wishing I could re-install the OEM bar but noooo....I hogged the mounting hole on the axle to 7/16" to install the RC bar, and OEM bar's bushing has a 10mm ID. So no going back... http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...R-MOUNT-RE9989 |
Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
(Post 3166929)
Yes you can go back....
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...R-MOUNT-RE9989 |
Thanks for the help so far guys, I'll be purchasing a TB tomorrow but I don't know which one yet. Do you guys think I'll need a drop pitman arm? I've been told it might be a possibility. I guess I can install the TB first and then see what the situation is.
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Originally Posted by jurazov
(Post 3166974)
Thanks for the help so far guys, I'll be purchasing a TB tomorrow but I don't know which one yet. Do you guys think I'll need a drop pitman arm? I've been told it might be a possibility. I guess I can install the TB first and then see what the situation is.
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But the stock frame mount is thin and probably rusty bad by now.
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3" lift doesn't need a dropped arm. The IRO mount is great. Replacing the old single shear bracket with a stronger part will help your entire front end.
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X2 on the IRO it comes with a bracket.... I believe it's made from 3/16" steel unlike the flimsy stock one... and you get the whole thing for the same price roughly as most other companies sell just the TB.
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x3 on the IRO. I have zero complaints about mine and the mount is indeed 3/16 and made well.
Do yourself a favor and Google coupon codes for them before you order. I know they offer them on some forums and it helps. |
Alright guys thanks for the input, much appreciated. Also thanks for the recommendation, both the IRO and JKS looks like good bang for the buck!
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