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About to do the booster swap. Have a few questions before I get started.
My trip to the junkyard was a bust. Out of the 5 95-96 xjs, 3 of the boosters was so rusted up it was flaking rust, one was leaking fluid and dripping in the cab off the rod, and the other wouldn't pressure up when the pedal was pumped. So I'm just gonna buy new, I can get m/c and booster thru my shop for $180 with warranty. So my questions are,
1. Can I use my 94 proportion valve since I didn't get one from a 95/96?
2. What's the best way on running the lines to prop valve to m/c? Add a few inches to wrap it back to the other side, or Just get a 1ft pre-made piece to go from valve to m/c?
3. Should I disassemble the prop valve and clean it good or let it ride? It's already had new fluid pumped thru it, did new m/c and calipers/wheel cylinders a few months ago. And going to put on longer soft lines while I have everything apart.
4. On the newer m/c, are the lines still in the same place as far as front/back or reversed from the older ones?
I'll probably have a few more questions pop up, I'm planning on getting the stuff tomorrow and start on it this weekend.
I don't have the switch on the end of the rod, so grinding the flat spot is not an issue with mine. BUT the hole is offset from the center of the rod, and I took the clip off mine and removed the rod from the pedal and there's hardly any up/down movement of the rod. SO, the hole in the new booster will be higher than the tab on my pedal, is there any up/down travel in the newer boosters, or will I need to move the mounting tab up?
I see what's going on now. The stock 94 versus the 95/96, the mounting face is different/reverse angles. How the bolts are pointed up/down .With the stock one the mounting face angle will kick curved the rod up, and the 95 will kick the straight rod down. Sorry for the going on, talking to myself, just thinking out loud, And adding info for anyone else that has dumb questions like me. haha.
stock:
I looked at the grand Cherokee stuff too. The xj parts are cheaper by $40. I can make a spacer. But my main concern was the angle the rod gets pushed in. Whether it would push in straight or at an angle and want to bind.
I run it down the road to the highway and back. About 2 miles when I got back the brakes wasn't hot. I could actually touch the rotors with bare hands.
I've got to finish up on it tomorrow anyway, have extended lines to put on and bleed everything, if it doesn't change after a real bleeding I may put 1/2 a turn in or so on the m/c end of the rod.
Put my lines on today and I figured I'd pull the pads and rotor off to check them out. Pads and rotors were almost a mirror finish, Glazed like crazy. I bet $100 it came from when both of my original lines collapsed and made the calipers bind up.
Pulled the brakes and hit pads and rotors with some 150 grit sandpaper to take the glazing off, looks a whole lot better now. I'll end up driving it tomorrow, going to go ahead and hit the rod adjustment a hair before I drive it again.
I've got a short video of the racket it was making, but I don't know how to upload one here.
Resurfaced the rotors and got the glaze off the pads. Still doing it. Must be crappy pads. "Creep groan" is what I've found online. I may try some ebc green stuffs and see if those are better.
Would you be willing to go into a little bit about how to adjust the mc rod and why its important?. I've never done this before.. am curious.
Also, what does the booster sound and feel like when it works? Mine make a random chattering chuffing sound sometimes outa nowhere. You FEEL it on the brakes too. Like a poorly functioning antilock system. But I know its the booster.
You adjust the rod by pulling the m/c away from it, there's a threaded cap that's on the rod itself, that adjusts the pre-load on the m/c, if it's too far out it will push in on the m/c piston all the time, just like riding brakes. If it's too far in it will cause more free play in the pedal before they engage. The booster feels fine, nice hard pedal, no noises besides the pad/rotor contact. I just went in 1/4 of a turn and maybe it dropped the pedal 1/8". Got it feeling more like my pedal in all of my other trucks.
Oreilly's is gonna swap out rotors/pads under warranty, and I'm going to to pay the difference to upgrade to performance friction pads, think it's $40 more that the pads I had.
New pads and rotors done, bedded. Went to my favoite hill, not impressed. Stronger stopping power, while I was bedding them I could hear the tires want to break grip from the pavement, the groan is gone, But still doesn't want to hold great on a hill. Have to give the pedal all I have, it almost feels like brake fade. And after I get down it takes a second or two for the pedal to come back up hard, almost like the jeeps not producing enough vacuum for the bigger booster. I'm out of ideas. I guess I'll just drive it, and do short hard stops at stop signs, and avoid hills, maybe the pads need more time to.... brake in. lol
09-11-2018, 06:33 PM
About to do the booster swap. Have a few questions before I get started.
