96 aw4 to ax15 swap
#1
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Model: Cherokee
96 aw4 to ax15 swap
Havent posted in forever, just been a quiet lurker. Finally have something worth talking about. My aw4 is about to crap out and yes ive tried to baby it back to life with new fluid, filter and solenoids. No luck. I always have loved a manual so time for surgery. I have most of my parts, just have a few more questions.
for 96 is there a difference in aw4 and ax15 crossmember? I cant find much but what i do find they are the same.
has anyone done a swap on a 96ish? All i can find is later year swaps
parts i have...
trans out of 92 opened it up its in great shape
pedals out of 92
Spacer out of 92
driveshafts from 92 with new u joints
clutch kit new
flywheel new
pilot bearing new
need to aquire...
94+ bellhousing
external bearing retainer
manual pcm
any advice or anything at all is greatly appreciated
for 96 is there a difference in aw4 and ax15 crossmember? I cant find much but what i do find they are the same.
has anyone done a swap on a 96ish? All i can find is later year swaps
parts i have...
trans out of 92 opened it up its in great shape
pedals out of 92
Spacer out of 92
driveshafts from 92 with new u joints
clutch kit new
flywheel new
pilot bearing new
need to aquire...
94+ bellhousing
external bearing retainer
manual pcm
any advice or anything at all is greatly appreciated
#2
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L inline 6
I just finished the aw4 to ax 15 swap.
1996 4L, ax15, and 231 t case into 1989
I also have an automatic 1996 here I've been driving while all this was going on. I can take a look at both 1996 crossmembers for you tomorrow.
The pedals can go into your original bracket if you're having trouble with brake lights. There is a brace on the manual pedal bracket that bolts in with the clutch master. The firewall is pretty bendy without it.
Drilling the holes for the master is straightforward. There are three dimples for the three holes. 3/8 top and bottom and I think 1-1/2 for the center one. Bag and tape up your fuse panel when drilling.
NSS bypass and reverse lights can be done if you save the plugs from your auto where they attach by the oil dipstick and you'll need the plug on the manual for the reverse lights above the passenger side drain plug on the ax15
The key will be stuck in the ignition thinking it is not in park. The cable that connects to the auto shift going to the steering column needs to be pushed in and zip tied in place.
Shift boot and the steel cover plate under the console will come in pretty handy.
1996 4L, ax15, and 231 t case into 1989
I also have an automatic 1996 here I've been driving while all this was going on. I can take a look at both 1996 crossmembers for you tomorrow.
The pedals can go into your original bracket if you're having trouble with brake lights. There is a brace on the manual pedal bracket that bolts in with the clutch master. The firewall is pretty bendy without it.
Drilling the holes for the master is straightforward. There are three dimples for the three holes. 3/8 top and bottom and I think 1-1/2 for the center one. Bag and tape up your fuse panel when drilling.
NSS bypass and reverse lights can be done if you save the plugs from your auto where they attach by the oil dipstick and you'll need the plug on the manual for the reverse lights above the passenger side drain plug on the ax15
The key will be stuck in the ignition thinking it is not in park. The cable that connects to the auto shift going to the steering column needs to be pushed in and zip tied in place.
Shift boot and the steel cover plate under the console will come in pretty handy.
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Thanks for the input. Im probably just going to use an inner shift boot out of a tj. Thatd be great if you could check the crossmembers thanks. Are you saying there is a seperate bracket besides the pedal bracket out kf the manual?
#5
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L inline 6
Pedal bracket brace
Both the auto and manual pedal brackets I had were the same except for the brake light attachment and brake master attachment.
The manual bracket also had a brace from near the pivot on the far left going to the clutch master bolts.
One of the two bolts for the master cylinder is part of this brace going out through the firewall.
The second bolt that holds the master in place is part of the master cylinder and comes in through the firewall from outside.
The manual bracket also had a brace from near the pivot on the far left going to the clutch master bolts.
One of the two bolts for the master cylinder is part of this brace going out through the firewall.
The second bolt that holds the master in place is part of the master cylinder and comes in through the firewall from outside.
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