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95/96 Brake Booster Swap or WJ

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Old 04-22-2015, 06:24 PM
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Default 95/96 Brake Booster Swap or WJ

Ok I know that this has been talked about on here quite a bit so I am sorry to re-hash this problem. I have a 1994 XJ with rear disc conversion and WJ front brakes. I was looking to upgrade my brake booster and master cylinder and have a few questions.


1. What would be better, to swap a 95/96 brake booster/MC or the WJ swap?
2. As I have read they say that the 95/96 swap is a direct bolt on, yet I hear that they have different pushrods and I would need a spacer, is it a direct bolt on and where could I get this spacer? Junkyard is not really an option for me.
3. Is there any difference is braking power between the 95/96 swap compared to the WJ swap?
4. Does anyone have a write up for the 95/96 swap? I have a write up for the WJ swap.


Thanks and let me know what you think
Old 04-22-2015, 06:30 PM
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Correction sorry, I have been reading to much.... I have rear disc conversion with Black Magic 15/16 big brake kit on the front
Old 04-23-2015, 08:00 AM
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I've done both. Braking power is the same. I prefer the WJ conversion. Here's why:

WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster

Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ.

I've done both.

XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway.
But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster.

WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle.
As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in.
Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier.

And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..
Old 04-23-2015, 12:45 PM
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Thanks for all of the great advice!! I have a few more questions though. In my jeep I don't have the washer bottle on that side so that is not a problem for me. I happened to find a used 96 booster/master off of a jeep that is being parted out. The gentlemen is asking 70. I could then get the lines to the prop valve. Do you think that this would be the way to go or just buy all new stuff? If I go with the used stuff do you think that the hard lines going from the master to the prop valve will be too short to just bolt right up? In other words do you think no matter what I will have to make new brake hard lines? And if I go with all new stuff you would suggest just going with the WJ setup?


Again thanks for all of your help.
Old 04-23-2015, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by midyrvt
Thanks for all of the great advice!! I have a few more questions though. In my jeep I don't have the washer bottle on that side so that is not a problem for me. I happened to find a used 96 booster/master off of a jeep that is being parted out. The gentlemen is asking 70. I could then get the lines to the prop valve. Do you think that this would be the way to go or just buy all new stuff? If I go with the used stuff do you think that the hard lines going from the master to the prop valve will be too short to just bolt right up? In other words do you think no matter what I will have to make new brake hard lines? And if I go with all new stuff you would suggest just going with the WJ setup?


Again thanks for all of your help.
That sounds great.
Old 04-23-2015, 04:51 PM
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I did the 95/96 swap. You need new hard line since the old prop valve and the new MC use different fittings. Autozone and those places sell little lines, I bought one with the right metric bubble flare for the MC and then flared the other side myself with the right SAE fitting for the prop valve.
Old 04-24-2015, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by midyrvt
I happened to find a used 96 booster/master off of a jeep that is being parted out. The gentlemen is asking 70. I could then get the lines to the prop valve.
I too am planning this upgrade as my booster is starting to make sucking noise. From what I've read as well, you may want to grab the brake pedal and switch and swap those as well. I think this may lower the pedal a little which I think makes a better feel. I feel that lifting my foot to reach the brake increases reaction time. I'm just sayin, you never know if you might need it.
Old 04-24-2015, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperRA
I too am planning this upgrade as my booster is starting to make sucking noise. From what I've read as well, you may want to grab the brake pedal and switch and swap those as well. I think this may lower the pedal a little which I think makes a better feel. I feel that lifting my foot to reach the brake increases reaction time. I'm just sayin, you never know if you might need it.
I don't believe it lowers the pedal at all using the later model pedal.
Old 04-25-2015, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I don't believe it lowers the pedal at all using the later model pedal.
Hmm, now that you challenged it, i cant find the reference.
Old 04-27-2015, 07:05 PM
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You guys are awesome, thanks for all the help. I was able to get the 96 booster.m/c and prop valve with lines for 70 bucks, hoping to do the install this week!

Need any help, post up.

Last edited by cruiser54; 04-27-2015 at 07:32 PM.
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